ID-COOLING IS-47K Low Profile CPU Cooler for Intel/AMD 47mm Height AM4 CPU Cooler 6 Heatpipes CPU Air Cooler 92mm PWM Fan

My setup:Sliger CL520 with 2 noctua fans as exhaust, and the case upside down (so the GPU is on top and the CPU on the bottom)CPU: Ryzen 5 360010/31/2020 UPDATE:I got a second one from amazon. The second one had a better surface finish on the cold plate (however I could still see the milling marks). I've fitted a noctua fan that is intaking through the heatsink (reverse from stock configuration)So far it looks like it works. Under full load (applied by cpu-z) I sit at about 82C. With some under volting and case fans at around 67% the cpu sits at 76 underload. While gaming the cooler is able to keep the cpu below 70C.The mounting solution is still sketchy as it seems to put a small curve on the motherboard. I have all 4 mounting screws screwed down completely to ensure a tight mounting pressure between the heatsink and the CPU to make sure I have good heat transfer.This second cooler (that had better quality check) is 3.5-4 stars. It would be a 5 star if it had a better mounting system like Noctua's secufirm.*EDITED for spelling*Disclaimer - I returned the unit that I originally purchased and ordered another one, hopefully with better quality control.Pros:>This cooler was low profile and could fit in my Sliger CL520 case>This cooler had no compatibility issues with my ASrock B550M mITX mother board. I had plenty of room around my RAM slots and clearance from the pcie (GPU) slot.Cons:>>>MY BIGGEST ISSUE: The cold plate has a hard protrusion (I tried to point to it with the corner of a piece of paper), a small hard pebble like bump, (as noted by pictures 1 & 2) This prevented me from installing the cooler as I did not want to risk damage to the lid of the CPU, or uneven contact.> Some of the fins on the heatsink were bent (most noticeable was captured on camera)> When I tried to flip the fan around so that it would pull air through the fins, I found that the fans blades actually scrapped against the fins.> The mounting solution was not confidence inspiring. The thumb screws were too thin and there was alot of play (sliding) when installing the cooler. Once the cooler was seated however everything seemed secure enough.In my third picture, you can see how much space was between the thumbscrew and the holes on the mother board. That extra space would allow the cooler to slide around until all 4 screws were tightened. I believe that there needs to be a back plate to help evenly distribute the load on the motherboard.

1) mounting system is garbage.Topside brackets are poor quality plated stamped sheet metal.Non-existent mounting bracket for the back of motherboard. Screws, that’s it - poor quality plated screws.Consequently you can look forward to smearing thermal paste all over while attempting to lineup the bracket up amd screws.Don’t put more than two turns on the first screw before starting the next one, otherwise you’ll be forced to ‘bow’ your motherboard to get the next screw started.Now it’s time to bow your motherboard! Tightening each screw drives the cooler heatsink into the cpu. Since there’s no bracket provided to stiffen the motherboard, each turn bends board while driving the cpu downward. With cooler installed, woe ct your MOBO to stay bowed by as much as the the screw thread length (looks like about 2-3mm).There’s been suggestion that constitutes “over tightening”. Ya, okay then go ahead leave the heatsink partially screwed in, with short screws - I won’t. Shoulder screws were included for a reason.2) Poor quality control, subpar manufacturing.Radiator fins contain numerous defects from manufacturing process. Random sections with small bends with small bits of metal hanging off.The fan looks like a generic black fan with manufacturers logo added.3) Bad designed - as others have noted, once the cooler is installed, backside of MOBO will need to be accessed to do any maintenance.Considering this is a low profile cooler designed for small cases - why would anyone want go through the hassle of disassembling an entire computer just to dust the motherboard or access basic components such as a cooling fan?4) Performance issuesManufacturer claims unit is rated for 120watt. Stressed tested to max 65watt for 30min and temps stayed just under 70c with an upgraded fan running at 100%. With stock fan was just over 70c.Running fan at 100% results in excessive noise. Upgraded ‘brown’ fan was slightly less noisy than OEM fan,, but both still sound like mini jet engine.Verdict: It may be serviceable for something like a home security dvr that you shove in a closet, wouldn’t recommend this cooler for any custom, home built, or good quality machines.Spend a bit more and get a cooler with a legitimate mount and decent fan.

Updated:This cooler fit an older ASRock H81m-itx board no problem,it does position very close to the board, so it would only mount in one direction in this application,no option to spin it 90 degrees, or whatever.The thin 92mm fan underneath is great for space savings, and even though the fan itself is pretty quiet,when installed and blowing through the cooler, the air noise was a little louder than I hoped.I tried a few different 92 & 100mm x15mm fans to find one with decent airflow,but less noise,for me using a Noctura 92x15 fan was the best compromise.BTW,The fan screws in from underneath the cooler,so you'll have to remove the cooler each time you want to try a different fan.This PC build is a little G3258 overclocking machine to play with, and emulate games on.Thermals have been very good for such a low height cooler so far.I'll update this again if there's any new issues,or info.

So, to be fair to ID-Cooling, I was attempting to cool a Ryzen 5800x and the cpu proves challenging for even some full size air coolers. But the rated 130w TDP of the IS-47k is a large stretch imo unless I got a faulty unit. My idle temps were sitting at 65-70c and under load they'd jump to 90+ immediately, dropping to 3.8ghz max boost after about 30 minutes. The only way I could get my system temps under control was to enable windows power saver settings under power management, and cap my cpu to eco mode at 65w. This lead to unacceptable performance and I was forced to reinstall my dark rock pro 4 and transfer to my old case until I can find a new cooling solution for my itx case.I even attempted to add a Noctua NM-AM4-L9aL9i Mounting Kit with a backplate, and a Noctua NF-A9x14 fan to better assist with the temps. I feel the advertised tdp is 50w higher than it should be. Also, if you do decide to purchase, keep in mind it does not come with a backplate and the provided thermal compound may be dried up like mine was.

I used this CPU cooler to put together a micro-ITX 8-Liter build with a 93-watt Intel i7 4Ghz chip. Earlier in the build I had a larger, traditional CPU cooler running. It cooled the chip but didn't fit in the case. This super low-profile cooler fits! It has less than 1mm clearance from the hard drive caddy -- see the pictures, the HDD basically sits right on top of the CPU cooler. But it fits! The CPU runs maybe 5-degrees Celsius hotter than before (and I'm running Virtual Machines and video streaming tools concurrently), but still well within acceptable temperature limits.I'm impressed both by how well thought through the install package is, and how glove-like this cooler fits onto this motherboard and case.The one caveat is that I do need a right-angle adapter for the 19-pin USB3.0 header. But that's because the cable has this huge honkin plastic socket. The cooler rests above it, so a low-profile adapter is needed. But that's not a big deal.Also, the CPU putty they include seems great, and has a pleasant grape flavor.