---
product_id: 473409344
title: "Cast 3D Printer Castable Resin for Jewelry, True Blue, 1kg | Easier to Burn and Print, Clean Burnout, Smooth Surface, High Resolution, 405nm UV, for Making Jewelries and Metal Parts"
brand: "siraya tech"
price: "₨2832"
currency: SCR
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 13
category: "Siraya Tech"
url: https://www.desertcart.sc/products/473409344-cast-3d-printer-castable-resin-for-jewelry-true-blue-1kg
store_origin: SC
region: Seychelles
---

# Ultra-high resolution & fine detail True Blue color for premium surface gloss Clean burnout with minimal ash Cast 3D Printer Castable Resin for Jewelry, True Blue, 1kg | Easier to Burn and Print, Clean Burnout, Smooth Surface, High Resolution, 405nm UV, for Making Jewelries and Metal Parts

**Brand:** siraya tech
**Price:** ₨2832
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 💎 Cast brilliance in True Blue — where precision meets effortless perfection!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Cast 3D Printer Castable Resin for Jewelry, True Blue, 1kg | Easier to Burn and Print, Clean Burnout, Smooth Surface, High Resolution, 405nm UV, for Making Jewelries and Metal Parts by siraya tech
- **How much does it cost?** ₨2832 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.sc](https://www.desertcart.sc/products/473409344-cast-3d-printer-castable-resin-for-jewelry-true-blue-1kg)

## Best For

- siraya tech enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted siraya tech brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Versatile & Reliable:** Ideal for bracelets, pendants, coins, and dental models; compatible with most LCD, DLP, and SLA 3D printers.
- • **User-Friendly Printing:** No need for dry environments or additives—print faster and easier with excellent plate adhesion and support removal.
- • **Effortless Clean Burnout:** Wax-infused formula ensures near-zero ash and smooth burnout, perfect for thick jewelry and metal parts.
- • **Precision at Every Layer:** Captures ultra-fine details with high resolution, delivering flawless, professional-grade prints every time.
- • **Vibrant True Blue Finish:** Distinctive bright blue resin enhances surface gloss and clarity, making your designs pop with sophistication.

## Overview

Siraya Tech Cast True Blue Resin is a 1kg polyurethane-based 3D printing resin designed for jewelry and metal casting. It features a wax-infused formula that burns cleanly with minimal ash, enabling flawless burnout even in thick designs. The resin offers ultra-high resolution and a smooth, glossy surface finish in a vibrant blue hue. Compatible with most LCD, DLP, and SLA printers, it requires no special additives or dry conditions, making it accessible for both novice and expert users aiming for professional-quality castings.

## Description

desertcart.com: Siraya Tech Cast 3D Printer Castable Resin for Jewelry, True Blue, 1kg | Easier to Burn and Print, Clean Burnout, Smooth Surface, High Resolution, 405nm UV, for Making Jewelries and Metal Parts : Industrial & Scientific

Review: Goodbye purple, hello BLUE - UPDATE 11/2/22: I work with this resin exclusively, and since I have so much experience with it, I figure that I’ll do updates for those of you who are just trying it or are having difficulties. This update is just to tell you guys about a successful experiment I tried. I was running low on blue, so I tried mixing blue and purple together and it honestly printed better than either one by themselves. I did about a 50/50 mixture, let it get fairly hot from sitting in super hot water from the sink for about 10 minutes. I don’t know if this is necessary, but I shook the F&$K out of it just to be sure. The resulting prints are shockingly good, I think that the addition of the purple give the pieces more rigidity, while the blue ensures cleaner models and supports. I haven’t done a cast with it yet, but I’ll let you know how it burns out. If that goes well, I will definitely be doing this from now on UPDATE 10/17/22: If you are about to hit that “buy now” button on the purple, STOP, get the blue… you’ll thank me later. Literally everything about the blue is light-years better than the purple. I went through an entire kg of purple without ever getting anything I was truly happy with (see below for old review). I was never able to achieve prints that didn’t have big build ups of unwanted resin, the post processing was ridiculous, and even after cleaning the models THOROUGHLY, I still wouldn’t get consistently clean burn outs. The Blue has none of those issues. Haven’t had a single build up around supports, the supports break cleanly from the models, post processing is easy and much faster, and best of all, the burnout is clean. The only downside of the blue is that the models are VERY fragile before post curing, so you have to be super careful. I have heard you might be able to get away without post curing at all, but I would recommend it for the simple fact that it strengthens the models significantly. If Blue is in stock, spend the extra money. I am maybe 1/3 of the way through a 500g bottle and I have achieved more usable prints than with an entire kg of the purple. OLD REVIEW OF PURPLE: I go back and forth with this resin, there are things that I like and things that I really don’t like. For the price, this stuff is good. Not great, good. If you do everything right (I’ll come back to this) you’ll get pretty good resolution, it’ll be easy to sand/finish, and you’ll have a clean burnout. But, in order for all of that to be achieved, you really have to follow these rules. First, and probably the most frustrating, is finding the proper settings. I found it really difficult to get my settings correct and I wasted a lot of time and resin doing so. I use a Mars 3 and my settings are as follows (I hope this helps someone): Layer size: 0.05micron Bottom layer count: 5 Exposure time: 5.5 Bottom exposure time: 100.00 Choose “light off delay” under the “waiting mode during printing” drop box and do: Light off delay: 2.000 Bottom light off delay: 5.000 Bottom lift speed: 50 Lifting speed: 50 Bottom retract speed: 100 Retract speed: 100 These settings have worked, but I still get a lot of resin build up around my supports which is a nightmare to clean up, if it doesn’t completely ruin the piece. These are also not the only settings I have ever tried, I have experimented with just about every reasonable combination and I haven’t been able to achieve clean prints without any globs of resin around the supports. So here’s a tip: try to position your piece and supports somewhere that will be easy to clean and won’t be the end of the world if not perfect. BE SURE TO PRINT AT 25-30°C or else you will have many failed prints! Next, you have to clean the pieces in a very specific way. No more than 30sec submersed in IPA, they recommend only using a paint brush to remove excess, and then immediately run under hot water for 30sec and then cold water for 30sec. This process has to be repeated until clean, and I find myself doing at least 6-7 cycles of this. It’s honestly pretty annoying. Next, post curing must be done in some sort of liquid with a similar refractive index as water, but NOT water, the resin is porous and the absorbed water can ruin your cast . They recommend using vegetable glycerin, but I had mineral oil on hand and it seems to work fine (more work to clean up so I’d recommend VG if you are going to buy something). You have to do this because the resin won’t cure in air, believe me, I have tried. You have to cure for at least 30 minutes, but I find myself having to cure for 1-1.5 hours, which is ridiculously long. Once it’s done curing, clean it off and be sure to dry it right away as to not let it absorb too much water. Be sure to have your burnout temp reach 1350°F and hold for 2-4 hours. Annnnd it’s just that simple! But seriously, this stuff is finicky and hard to get right, I’m almost done with a full kg and I’m still not completely happy with the results, but it works well enough if you are careful and methodical.
Review: Excelente - Excelente producto

## Features

- EASIER TO BURN AND CLEAN- Siraya Tech castable resin material contains some wax, so this cast resin is easier to burn than many non-wax-based casting resins, and leaves much less ash during the burning process and burns out cleanly, so this castable 3d resin is ideal for use in thicker designs, such as bracelets and metal parts.
- EASIER TO PRINT - This Cast SLA UV resin is easier to use than other castable resins as it does not require a very dry environment or special additive to print and burn well, and this siraya tech castable resin can print quickly and has high resolution and good plate adhesion. Both new users and experienced users can easily print the model.
- HIGH SURFACE QUALITY - Siraya Tech castable resin’s bright true blue color shows more clear gloss and making the printed model have a higher resolution and a smooth high-quality surface, the printing details show high precision, very suitable for cast jewelry.
- WIDELY USED – Siraya Tech Cast true blue resin burns easier and burns cleaner than Cast purple, so it's ideal for printing thicker designs like bracelets, Big pendents, Medals, and Coins, and also for metal parts, jewelry casting, and by dentists. This castable resin 3d printer resin can be used in most LCD DLP SLA 3D printers.
- HIGH RESOLUTION AND SOFTER - Cast True Blue UV resin is softer than cast purple and has an extremely high resolution, which can capture complex features, print ultra-fine structures, and provide smooth surface finishes and high-precision details for printed models.

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| Brand | Siraya Tech |
| Color | True Blue 1000g |
| Compatible Devices | Laptop, Smartphone |
| Customer Reviews | 4.5 out of 5 stars 946 Reviews |
| Item Weight | 1 kg |
| Material | Polyurethane |
| Product Dimensions | 5.91"D x 5.12"W x 8.27"H |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Siraya Tech
- **Color:** True Blue 1000g
- **Item Weight:** 1 kg
- **Material:** Polyurethane
- **Product Dimensions:** 5.91"D x 5.12"W x 8.27"H

## Images

![Cast 3D Printer Castable Resin for Jewelry, True Blue, 1kg | Easier to Burn and Print, Clean Burnout, Smooth Surface, High Resolution, 405nm UV, for Making Jewelries and Metal Parts - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61GKytx9VeL.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Color** options.

## Questions & Answers

**Q: What is the exposure for anycubic photon mono 4k i do not find in the guide**
A: I use the anycubic photon mono 4k printer.   I use 5 to 7 second exposure setting.  Going to faster times such as 2-3 seconds has never worked.      Going to longer times don't look needed  This stuff works great. Sticks to plate every time. . I'm not in a hurry as this is for castings.  Make sure you have at least enough lift to break contact area. At least 6 mm.  Lift speed is kind of slow at 50 mm per minute. I want to give it time to break the seal between the part and bottom .  I use 30 seconds per layer on base plate to start.   With about 7 layers or so. This will make the base plate layers harder. Less time may soften it up and help get it off easy.  But not stick as well.    I clean tank every print and make sure no junk is hidden somewhere.  I level every print and use only clean resin. This stuff is the best  for castings.  Seems like curing takes many times longer under UV light.    But I look at each one and decide.  I lightly sand each model 100% . This will also help the coating material stick better.   REX

**Q: What investment are people using with this successfully? i have plasticast but hear optima prestige is better for this kind of wax -thanks!**
A: Investment and burnout recommendation
Our users have reported successes with  Plasticast® investment by Ransom & Randolph
https://www.ransom-randolph.com/plasticast
Recommendend Burn out schedule can be found here:
https://www.ransom-randolph.com/_files/ugd/cc5f22_902ad781b4e74bf3b3d55bff34f7fe6c.pdf

Some user may have hard time finding Plasticast, here is an alternative found in UK and recommended by VOG
https://www.srs-ltd.co.uk/products/investment-powder/classic

**Q: what is the shelf life of Siraya Tech Cast?**
A: If unopened does not really have one, I use 3 year old resins.
With open bottles of castable resins it is recommended to use fairly quickly as air/moisture can effect burnout. 
To keep cast fresh I pour some into another UV blocking bottle (amber glass) and use, this way it reduces how much air/moisture can affect the bulk of the resin.

**Q: is this resin compatible with the new elegoo mars 3 msla 4k printer? If so what are the recommended settings.**
A: hi，

Cast user guide:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1m2JOi054N9dFiQk2e8x1ijl09gSv_qChY_65AMDaHxI/edit?usp=sharing
It is best to cast as soon as you finalize full post curing. moisture in air can affect burnout

We highly recommend to join our very active user group at 
https://www.facebook.com/groups/sirayatech/ 
Lots professionals like yourself and they often can provide better application specific experience than we could

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Goodbye purple, hello BLUE
*by B***N on September 17, 2022*

UPDATE 11/2/22: I work with this resin exclusively, and since I have so much experience with it, I figure that I’ll do updates for those of you who are just trying it or are having difficulties. This update is just to tell you guys about a successful experiment I tried. I was running low on blue, so I tried mixing blue and purple together and it honestly printed better than either one by themselves. I did about a 50/50 mixture, let it get fairly hot from sitting in super hot water from the sink for about 10 minutes. I don’t know if this is necessary, but I shook the F&$K out of it just to be sure. The resulting prints are shockingly good, I think that the addition of the purple give the pieces more rigidity, while the blue ensures cleaner models and supports. I haven’t done a cast with it yet, but I’ll let you know how it burns out. If that goes well, I will definitely be doing this from now on UPDATE 10/17/22: If you are about to hit that “buy now” button on the purple, STOP, get the blue… you’ll thank me later. Literally everything about the blue is light-years better than the purple. I went through an entire kg of purple without ever getting anything I was truly happy with (see below for old review). I was never able to achieve prints that didn’t have big build ups of unwanted resin, the post processing was ridiculous, and even after cleaning the models THOROUGHLY, I still wouldn’t get consistently clean burn outs. The Blue has none of those issues. Haven’t had a single build up around supports, the supports break cleanly from the models, post processing is easy and much faster, and best of all, the burnout is clean. The only downside of the blue is that the models are VERY fragile before post curing, so you have to be super careful. I have heard you might be able to get away without post curing at all, but I would recommend it for the simple fact that it strengthens the models significantly. If Blue is in stock, spend the extra money. I am maybe 1/3 of the way through a 500g bottle and I have achieved more usable prints than with an entire kg of the purple. OLD REVIEW OF PURPLE: I go back and forth with this resin, there are things that I like and things that I really don’t like. For the price, this stuff is good. Not great, good. If you do everything right (I’ll come back to this) you’ll get pretty good resolution, it’ll be easy to sand/finish, and you’ll have a clean burnout. But, in order for all of that to be achieved, you really have to follow these rules. First, and probably the most frustrating, is finding the proper settings. I found it really difficult to get my settings correct and I wasted a lot of time and resin doing so. I use a Mars 3 and my settings are as follows (I hope this helps someone): Layer size: 0.05micron Bottom layer count: 5 Exposure time: 5.5 Bottom exposure time: 100.00 Choose “light off delay” under the “waiting mode during printing” drop box and do: Light off delay: 2.000 Bottom light off delay: 5.000 Bottom lift speed: 50 Lifting speed: 50 Bottom retract speed: 100 Retract speed: 100 These settings have worked, but I still get a lot of resin build up around my supports which is a nightmare to clean up, if it doesn’t completely ruin the piece. These are also not the only settings I have ever tried, I have experimented with just about every reasonable combination and I haven’t been able to achieve clean prints without any globs of resin around the supports. So here’s a tip: try to position your piece and supports somewhere that will be easy to clean and won’t be the end of the world if not perfect. BE SURE TO PRINT AT 25-30°C or else you will have many failed prints! Next, you have to clean the pieces in a very specific way. No more than 30sec submersed in IPA, they recommend only using a paint brush to remove excess, and then immediately run under hot water for 30sec and then cold water for 30sec. This process has to be repeated until clean, and I find myself doing at least 6-7 cycles of this. It’s honestly pretty annoying. Next, post curing must be done in some sort of liquid with a similar refractive index as water, but NOT water, the resin is porous and the absorbed water can ruin your cast . They recommend using vegetable glycerin, but I had mineral oil on hand and it seems to work fine (more work to clean up so I’d recommend VG if you are going to buy something). You have to do this because the resin won’t cure in air, believe me, I have tried. You have to cure for at least 30 minutes, but I find myself having to cure for 1-1.5 hours, which is ridiculously long. Once it’s done curing, clean it off and be sure to dry it right away as to not let it absorb too much water. Be sure to have your burnout temp reach 1350°F and hold for 2-4 hours. Annnnd it’s just that simple! But seriously, this stuff is finicky and hard to get right, I’m almost done with a full kg and I’m still not completely happy with the results, but it works well enough if you are careful and methodical.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Excelente
*by S***O on July 9, 2026*

Excelente producto

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great resin!
*by R***M on June 27, 2026*

I love this resin. I use it in my Phrozen printer and it is my favorite resin. It casts well, and it is very strong. If you accidentally drop the print it typically doesnt break. Easy to tool and I even make rubber molds in my high temp (About 260 degrees) rubber vulcanizer with the cured prints without any issues, which is a huge time saver. And because it is wax based it is a pretty easy removal from the mold after curing. It doesnt glue itself to the rubber or need coating first like other prints. Ive tried many different resins and they are good for different things, but this one seems to be the best all around for my jewelry type usage. And it is half price of comparable resins!

## Frequently Bought Together

- Siraya Tech Cast 3D Printer Resin Easier to Burn and Print Clean Burnout Great Smooth Surface High Resolution Castable 405nm UV-Curing Resin for Thicker Designs and Metal Parts (True Blue, 1kg)
- Prestige ORO 5Lb Premium Jewelry Making Casting Powder Lost Wax Investment Powder for Gold, Silver ETC
- DZQ Perforated Casting Flask Vacuum Casting Stainless Steel Wall Flanged with Rubber Sprue Base(3" x 4")

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*Product available on Desertcart Seychelles*
*Store origin: SC*
*Last updated: 2026-08-14*