---
product_id: 745531777
title: "Creality K1 3D Printer with Auto Leveling 600mm/s Printing Speed 2000mm/s² Acceleration, 300℃ High-Temp 32mm³/s Flow Hotend Dual-Gear Direct Extruder Build Volume 8.66x8.66x9.84 inch"
brand: "comgrow"
price: "₨17563"
currency: SCR
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 8
category: "Comgrow"
url: https://www.desertcart.sc/products/745531777-creality-k1-3d-printer-with-auto-leveling-600mm-s-printing
store_origin: SC
region: Seychelles
---

# 600mm/s ultra-fast print speed Auto-leveling with strain sensor precision 300℃ rapid high-temp hotend Creality K1 3D Printer with Auto Leveling 600mm/s Printing Speed 2000mm/s² Acceleration, 300℃ High-Temp 32mm³/s Flow Hotend Dual-Gear Direct Extruder Build Volume 8.66x8.66x9.84 inch

**Brand:** comgrow
**Price:** ₨17563
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🚀 Elevate your 3D printing game with speed, precision, and power — don’t get left behind!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Creality K1 3D Printer with Auto Leveling 600mm/s Printing Speed 2000mm/s² Acceleration, 300℃ High-Temp 32mm³/s Flow Hotend Dual-Gear Direct Extruder Build Volume 8.66x8.66x9.84 inch by comgrow
- **How much does it cost?** ₨17563 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.sc](https://www.desertcart.sc/products/745531777-creality-k1-3d-printer-with-auto-leveling-600mm-s-printing)

## Best For

- comgrow enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted comgrow brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Blazing Fast Production:** Print models up to 12x faster than standard 3D printers with a lightning 600mm/s speed and 2000mm/s² acceleration.
- • **Precision Auto-Leveling:** One-tap self-inspection and strain sensor bed leveling eliminate guesswork, saving you valuable setup time.
- • **High-Temp Ceramic Hotend:** Reach scorching 300℃ in just 40 seconds with a full ceramic heater for flawless filament melting and versatile material compatibility.
- • **Dual-Gear Direct Extruder:** Smooth, powerful extrusion with 80N force supports flexible filaments like TPU, ensuring consistent, professional-grade prints.
- • **Smart Cooling & Connectivity:** Directional dual fans plus auxiliary chamber cooling keep prints crisp, while USB and LAN options fit your workflow seamlessly.

## Overview

The Creality K1 3D Printer is a high-performance, professional-grade machine featuring ultra-fast 600mm/s print speeds, precise auto-leveling with a strain sensor, and a 300℃ ceramic hotend for versatile filament use. Its dual-gear direct extruder ensures smooth feeding of flexible materials, while smart cooling and multiple connectivity options make it ideal for rapid prototyping and production. With an 8.66x8.66x9.84 inch build volume, it’s designed for millennial managers who demand efficiency, reliability, and quality in their creative workflows.

## Description

Creality K1 3D Printer with Auto Leveling 600mm/s Printing Speed 2000mm/s² Acceleration, 300℃ High-Temp 32mm³/s Flow Hotend Dual-Gear Direct Extruder Build Volume 8.66x8.66x9.84 inch: desertcart.com: Industrial & Scientific

Review: Ender 3 Pro is both Professional with a few upgrades and Beginner as is NICE - I was really surprised at what this printer can do. I have 5 of them now and use them for production parts in my valve and machine. I even print sprockets using a chain drive and PC carbon fiber PETG carbon fiber. I have upgraded all of them a bit. All have direct drive extruder and the all metal hot ends, as I print at 248C and the Teflon tube cannot take that temperature very long and will cause a blockage in the hot end. The hottest I have had to print so far is 255 and it works great. You can buy a cheap “heat break” that makes the Creality hot end “all metal”. Three have the dual Z axis kit on them, and the other two still single and print fine. But the single Z's need leveling more often. I put all aluminum extruders on and have no issues with feed. I have never had to adjust the E steps, nor have I upgraded the firmware, as they all work and print parts within .02 mm. The only issue I had was three of them had .4 mm nozzles were not .4 mm, from the factory, and that caused some funny prints with the walls separating. I used a digital caliper and measure the filament coming out of the nozzles at under .3 mm. Now with every nozzle install I run some filament out and see if it, shows 0.4 exactly on all the replacements. All the walls print strong now. I think that Creality got some .3 mm nozzles with .4 marking. To get perfect prints requires some testing and working on the printers. I print almost exclusively PETG and many different brands depending on he price. I noticed that some I bought direct from China were “wet” and so I bought dryers. All the PETG I dry before using and get no “blistering” where the moisture expands under heat. I just don't have time to keep reprinting because of moisture. I also print some TPU and at on time printed over 500 of these “rubber” grommets that our supplier stopped making during the COVID shortages. The main thing is to assemble it correctly so that the X bar is level and the wheels (with the pom tires) can actually spin with some friction. You can measure with a metric tape or rule and get it within .5 mm. I actually drilled a 5 mm hole in the vertical to be able to get the X axis perfect. The hole allows the Allen wrench to loosen the X cross member so you can level it without having to keep removing and adjusting the whole X axis bar. The verticals need to be square to the base and they are very close. On two I put the triangle rods to get it perfect. I used a machinist square to get it perfect. Smooth is the keyword. You don't want any "jump" from the Z axis (rising axis). Parallel and 90 deg to the bottom frames. After about 6 months I installed the dual Z axis and that was simple enough. This one change made it so I can print the same part over and over up to 100 times without having to tram the bed. Also called leveling. `After some time I learned that he Z limit switch will get out of calibration and that spraying it with canned air removes the dirt or whatever is changing the stop point. I think an LED version would be better. On the beds, every one of them has had loose axles on the wheels. The 5 mm screws with 8 mm nuts needed to be tightened. To do this you need to loosen the offset wheels so you can get them vertically stable. There should be absolutely NO wobble in the bed. If you feel any, stop and tighten the rollers. I have had to replace three rollers where the bearings were bad and the wheels wiggled on the shafts. Always adjust the cam 10mm so the wheels can move with slight friction. Over tight causes problems and too loose is also bad. Just so they spin with friction. No wobble side to side or when you lift the corners of the bed. Every screw on the printer needs to be checked for tightness. EVERY screw. Loose screws are a nightmare. Even on my $1000 big printers, all of them needed to have the screws tightened, even the screws under the bed. No wobble and you will have “happy printing”. I have not put the auto bed leveling on as it actually takes longer to print with it (on my other printers). I use only glass on the beds (I scrapped off the magnetic sheet and cleaned with alcohol) and still use the doubled standard printer paper to set the level. I just got “good” at it. Then when the print starts sometimes, but rarely, I will tweak the adjustments. I usually print a skirt with three lines so I can “feel” the thickness of the first layer. I did put the stronger bed springs on also, this gives more stability. I use the Ultimaker Cura (updated)and it has more adjustments than most beginners can use. But as you learn you can make slight adjustments and try them out and see things improve. One of the good things is this printer is so popular you can find lots of YouTube videos to help you. And parts can be found on Aliexpress for the same parts way less. The all come from China, anyway. I have five of these Ender 3 Pro's now, bought two from Comgrow desertcart, came with the glass bed plates. I print almost exclusively PETG at 248c Nozzle and 85C bed temp, (this makes for very good layer welding) and bought the Creality glass plates and the Bed Weld, water based adhesive so the PETG will let go. The higher temp is to insure both a good layer weld and that the cooling will cause the parts to just come of very easy. Once printed they just come off very easy. If I dry the filament I get almost NO stringing. I can't stress how important dry filament is for nice prints. The metal flex plates and the ones that come with the printers magnetic plastic do not work with PETG at all. They are ruined after two prints. Glass is the best with the Layerneer Bed Weld and I have no problems with adhesion and removal. Just have to wait for cooling. The prints come off as if nothing was holding them when it cools. The parts in the photo are actually functional parts that we can't get from a supplier.. So, naturally I made a CAD drawing and made them. The trick with functional parts is to make the plastic about 1/3 thicker than on injection molded, because of the tiny gaps caused by the space between the "lines" of print. It is not 100% solid even if it looks like it is. And most of my prints use 100% infill because hey are parts getting some heavy use. Overall, it is a good choice and a workhorse printer. For the money it still can't be beaten, That is why the 5 stars. But for those who are “technically challenged”, you may get frustrated with the learning curve. After a few hundred prints you will be a pro. Watch the videos as there are tons of them. There may be equally good or better printers for the price, but the availability of parts, upgrade parts and help resources for these printers is amazing.
Review: Great printer - I've had this about bit less than a year now, and it's my first 3D printer. It was pretty much ready to go and was a very easy first printer. It prints well, and has a large volume. I've tried various filaments and it has handled all of them (except one cheap PLA from "e-sun" but that's due to the poor quality filament). I did root it to use Orca and print wirelessly, but Creality software has gotten a bit better and you probably wouldn't even need to root anymore. Orca does have more options though. The creality app and cloud stuff is useless. If I did it all over again, I might look at the offerings from elegoo which are cheaper, but this is still a great deal IMO. I've put about 10 problem-free spools through it. I'm not into figurines and stuff, I mostly print tools or adapters for things around the house. I think if you want to do figurines you'd want a resin printer.

## Features

- Faster and More Efficient: Creality K1 3d printer, equips 600 millimeter per second printing speed and 20000 millimeters per square second acceleration, it is 12 times faster than the other normal 3d printer. Give good printing experience to customers and get a good model in short time
- Efficient Printing: With flow max 32 millimeters per square second, K1 3d printer has a new ceramic heater, encircling the entire hotend, it can heat to 200 degree in 40 seconds quickly and melts the filament instantly. Its max heating temperature is 300 degree
- Easy Start to Print: With one-tap self-inspection, K1 3d printer helps you start the printing job easily. Also, there is a strain sensor in the heatbed for more precise auto leveling without any operation or attention. Which can help to level the hot bed easily and quickly, saving much time in this process
- Dual-gear Extruder: Enables smooth feeding, it supports a wide range of filaments and performs well even when printing with flexible filaments, such as TPU. The Creality K1 all-in-one 3d printer incorporates a specialized direct extruder called the "Sprite," which is designed to handle flexible filaments with precision. This all-metal extruder is equipped with dual gears. It allows for a powerful and uniform extrusion force of 80 Newtons, ensuring smooth and consistent filament feeding
- Upgraded Design: K1 3d printer can print via USB drive or Lan, different printing mode meets different customers demands. Smart G-sensor to resolve ringing for high-speed printing. Accurate Z-axis positioning for less Z-banding. The dual fans keep models cool with directional air ducts on the printhead and an auxiliary fan in the build chamber for prompt cooling

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B0F8VM6ZB6 |
| Best Sellers Rank | #22,952 in Industrial & Scientific ( See Top 100 in Industrial & Scientific ) #41 in 3D Printers |
| Customer Reviews | 4.2 4.2 out of 5 stars (10,077) |
| Date First Available | May 16, 2025 |
| Item Weight | 27.5 pounds |
| Item model number | K1 |
| Manufacturer | Creality 3D |
| Product Dimensions | 13.97 x 13.97 x 18.89 inches |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Comgrow
- **Color:** Black with Silver Accents
- **Item Weight:** 27.5 Pounds
- **Material:** Aluminum
- **Product Dimensions:** 13.97"D x 13.97"W x 18.89"H

## Images

![Creality K1 3D Printer with Auto Leveling 600mm/s Printing Speed 2000mm/s² Acceleration, 300℃ High-Temp 32mm³/s Flow Hotend Dual-Gear Direct Extruder Build Volume 8.66x8.66x9.84 inch - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/512HjUZhnJL.jpg)

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Ender 3 Pro is both Professional with a few upgrades and Beginner as is NICE
*by J***R on September 1, 2021*

I was really surprised at what this printer can do. I have 5 of them now and use them for production parts in my valve and machine. I even print sprockets using a chain drive and PC carbon fiber PETG carbon fiber. I have upgraded all of them a bit. All have direct drive extruder and the all metal hot ends, as I print at 248C and the Teflon tube cannot take that temperature very long and will cause a blockage in the hot end. The hottest I have had to print so far is 255 and it works great. You can buy a cheap “heat break” that makes the Creality hot end “all metal”. Three have the dual Z axis kit on them, and the other two still single and print fine. But the single Z's need leveling more often. I put all aluminum extruders on and have no issues with feed. I have never had to adjust the E steps, nor have I upgraded the firmware, as they all work and print parts within .02 mm. The only issue I had was three of them had .4 mm nozzles were not .4 mm, from the factory, and that caused some funny prints with the walls separating. I used a digital caliper and measure the filament coming out of the nozzles at under .3 mm. Now with every nozzle install I run some filament out and see if it, shows 0.4 exactly on all the replacements. All the walls print strong now. I think that Creality got some .3 mm nozzles with .4 marking. To get perfect prints requires some testing and working on the printers. I print almost exclusively PETG and many different brands depending on he price. I noticed that some I bought direct from China were “wet” and so I bought dryers. All the PETG I dry before using and get no “blistering” where the moisture expands under heat. I just don't have time to keep reprinting because of moisture. I also print some TPU and at on time printed over 500 of these “rubber” grommets that our supplier stopped making during the COVID shortages. The main thing is to assemble it correctly so that the X bar is level and the wheels (with the pom tires) can actually spin with some friction. You can measure with a metric tape or rule and get it within .5 mm. I actually drilled a 5 mm hole in the vertical to be able to get the X axis perfect. The hole allows the Allen wrench to loosen the X cross member so you can level it without having to keep removing and adjusting the whole X axis bar. The verticals need to be square to the base and they are very close. On two I put the triangle rods to get it perfect. I used a machinist square to get it perfect. Smooth is the keyword. You don't want any "jump" from the Z axis (rising axis). Parallel and 90 deg to the bottom frames. After about 6 months I installed the dual Z axis and that was simple enough. This one change made it so I can print the same part over and over up to 100 times without having to tram the bed. Also called leveling. `After some time I learned that he Z limit switch will get out of calibration and that spraying it with canned air removes the dirt or whatever is changing the stop point. I think an LED version would be better. On the beds, every one of them has had loose axles on the wheels. The 5 mm screws with 8 mm nuts needed to be tightened. To do this you need to loosen the offset wheels so you can get them vertically stable. There should be absolutely NO wobble in the bed. If you feel any, stop and tighten the rollers. I have had to replace three rollers where the bearings were bad and the wheels wiggled on the shafts. Always adjust the cam 10mm so the wheels can move with slight friction. Over tight causes problems and too loose is also bad. Just so they spin with friction. No wobble side to side or when you lift the corners of the bed. Every screw on the printer needs to be checked for tightness. EVERY screw. Loose screws are a nightmare. Even on my $1000 big printers, all of them needed to have the screws tightened, even the screws under the bed. No wobble and you will have “happy printing”. I have not put the auto bed leveling on as it actually takes longer to print with it (on my other printers). I use only glass on the beds (I scrapped off the magnetic sheet and cleaned with alcohol) and still use the doubled standard printer paper to set the level. I just got “good” at it. Then when the print starts sometimes, but rarely, I will tweak the adjustments. I usually print a skirt with three lines so I can “feel” the thickness of the first layer. I did put the stronger bed springs on also, this gives more stability. I use the Ultimaker Cura (updated)and it has more adjustments than most beginners can use. But as you learn you can make slight adjustments and try them out and see things improve. One of the good things is this printer is so popular you can find lots of YouTube videos to help you. And parts can be found on Aliexpress for the same parts way less. The all come from China, anyway. I have five of these Ender 3 Pro's now, bought two from Comgrow Amazon, came with the glass bed plates. I print almost exclusively PETG at 248c Nozzle and 85C bed temp, (this makes for very good layer welding) and bought the Creality glass plates and the Bed Weld, water based adhesive so the PETG will let go. The higher temp is to insure both a good layer weld and that the cooling will cause the parts to just come of very easy. Once printed they just come off very easy. If I dry the filament I get almost NO stringing. I can't stress how important dry filament is for nice prints. The metal flex plates and the ones that come with the printers magnetic plastic do not work with PETG at all. They are ruined after two prints. Glass is the best with the Layerneer Bed Weld and I have no problems with adhesion and removal. Just have to wait for cooling. The prints come off as if nothing was holding them when it cools. The parts in the photo are actually functional parts that we can't get from a supplier.. So, naturally I made a CAD drawing and made them. The trick with functional parts is to make the plastic about 1/3 thicker than on injection molded, because of the tiny gaps caused by the space between the "lines" of print. It is not 100% solid even if it looks like it is. And most of my prints use 100% infill because hey are parts getting some heavy use. Overall, it is a good choice and a workhorse printer. For the money it still can't be beaten, That is why the 5 stars. But for those who are “technically challenged”, you may get frustrated with the learning curve. After a few hundred prints you will be a pro. Watch the videos as there are tons of them. There may be equally good or better printers for the price, but the availability of parts, upgrade parts and help resources for these printers is amazing.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great printer
*by D***R on January 1, 2026*

I've had this about bit less than a year now, and it's my first 3D printer. It was pretty much ready to go and was a very easy first printer. It prints well, and has a large volume. I've tried various filaments and it has handled all of them (except one cheap PLA from "e-sun" but that's due to the poor quality filament). I did root it to use Orca and print wirelessly, but Creality software has gotten a bit better and you probably wouldn't even need to root anymore. Orca does have more options though. The creality app and cloud stuff is useless. If I did it all over again, I might look at the offerings from elegoo which are cheaper, but this is still a great deal IMO. I've put about 10 problem-free spools through it. I'm not into figurines and stuff, I mostly print tools or adapters for things around the house. I think if you want to do figurines you'd want a resin printer.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Fantastic first-time machine
*by P***. on June 26, 2019*

I am very impressed by my first 3D printer - I got it for prototyping cast metal parts, and I knew it would be a rabbit hole of learning a whole new technology. But this printer has made it fun rather than difficult. Assembly took less than an hour, and within 24 hours, I had my first finished prototype, using bronze PLA. It's been running almost constantly in the 2 months I've had it. After reading reviews, I had painter's tape and hairspray at the ready, but I haven't needed them once. The magnetic bed is great, although it is getting chewed up, they're only $10 to replace. I have to relevel it using a test file once in a while, but usually I just watch the brim print when I start a file, and make any tiny adjustments to the leveling screws while it's running. I will note that the bed on mine has a slight flex upward in the middle - enough that the first layer is fully solid at the edges and nonexistant in the middle. This isn't a problem for me, as I use .6-1mm bottoms on prints, and I don't care how the bottom looks. But when I have to stop a file early on, scraping this area clean is a pain. Often a half-layer remains and is pulled off with the next successful print. Quality has met my expectations, though I've never tried printing below .1mm resolution. I just replaced the nozzle for the first time, and it had definitely degraded (pushing bronze PLA through a brass nozzle, I expected it would wear out fast). But it's back to normal now, and replacing the nozzle was simple, following instructions in a YouTube video. I did print a filament guide arm as my test file, and it seems to help as I've never had a tangle or stuck filament. I'm very impressed that my test print is now a permanent part of the printer - honestly I did not expect my first attempt hitting "print" would actually work. I'm planning a few upgrades - a Raspberry Pi with Octoprint and a webcam to enable a network interface, an auto-bed leveler. I'll probably try to get an acrylic case for it and print ABS before long - I've been working in PLA so far. This price point is incredible and allowed me to rapidly build a product line as I started my business - for the cost of Sketchup and this printer, I was able to produce perfect CAD files to send to production - prototypes that I had held in my hands and played with that cost about $1 each in PLA. That blows me away and reduced my startup time by months and thousands of dollars. My one gripe is that if I leave it on for a long time, including just having it's computer powered by USB, it'll start "hanging" when printing. It starts to print but will just stop running midway through, and instead starts this weird behavior of making a hex pattern of burnt plastic drips. So far I can't identify a cause - my STL files are clean - but I've noticed it goes away if I power it totally off for 20 minutes before starting a new print. I'm guessing there's a memory problem going on, but I haven't had time to troubleshoot it with the mfgr yet. Overall it's a major win - with the added bonus that it prints neat little toys, and replacement parts for household objects. I have a technologically-minded nephew who's 11, and he'll probably be getting one of these for Christmas. I would say that if a kid is smart enough to know what "this part is very hot" means, they could use one of these with very little support/supervision - but you might want to assist with things like assembly and replacing the nozzle, which involve small screws and a bit of experience.

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*Product available on Desertcart Seychelles*
*Store origin: SC*
*Last updated: 2026-03-02*