Pyle Backup Rear View Car Camera Monitor Screen System Kit - Parking & Reverse Safety Distance Scale Lines, Waterproof, Night Vision, IR LED Lights, 3.5" LCD Video Color Display for Vehicles - PLCM36

Install Date 4/2/13 PYLE PLCM36 RE: Product & Installation. --- As I 'just' installed this, longevity/ performance is unknown. However, presently it works well. --- I am an ASE Certified Automotive Tech. This was installed in my wife's 04 Kia Sorento SUV. To install I pulled all interior molded body panels as required on the left side of the vehicle including the interior tail gate hatch panels. At the left front side, by the steering wheel under the dash, I found a 'hot' ignition on power source away from the fuse box. This was used to power the 3.5" monitor. --- It is not necessary to ad a separate in line fuse since the factory fuse at the box will also protect this new circuit. --- All wire connections/ splices were done with the smallest but connectors I had on hand ( 1/16" non insulated) & also epoxy shrink wrapped then taped tightly with electrical tape. One drilled hole was made inside the left rear tail lamp housing and rubber grommeted (to prevent chafing) so wire could be routed to front monitor up the driver's side of the vehicle. A self tapping screw was used for the ground inside the left tail lamp housing into body sheet metal. Camera hot wire was spliced into the hot wire to backup light. There was one white and one black existing vehicle factory wire. In this case with use of a volt meter it was determined the hot wire was the white wire. Into this I spliced the PYLE red (hot) wire. Automotive wiring is different than household wire. They are all color coded by the factory and any given wire may be 'hot' regardless of color. Use of a voltmeter is essential. --- All wires were retained inside to body panels with self adhesive peel & stick retainers to prevent side slapping / ratling noises. Do NOT electric solder on Computer Controlled Vehicles (mostly all now) as electric induced current from an electric soldering iron or gun may damage The ECM or other controlled vehicle sensors. I could not use a pencil torch as The PYLE wiring is microscopic in diameter. Due to others comments about water issues at the camera the input wire lead by PYLE and around the lens was carefully sealed with black automotive RTV Sealer to keep water out. --- Time to install? = Six (6) hours, + chasing additional materials required for installation (additional wire) another 1 hr. So pretty much a full day.CONCLUSION: Cost $56.00 + $35.00 additional wire and misc., total = $91.00 parts. Obviously potential labor charges are not included. --- If I had it to do over again due primarily to PYLE tiny diameter wire I would try to find a back up system with minimum 18ga. to 22ga. standard automotive spec diameter wire.The PYLE diameter wire is approx. 32 ga. One is then concerned about heat build up from the vehicles existing 18ga. - 22ga. circuit and 10 - 15 AMPS into this itsy bitsy diameter wire (when electric flow is impeded by too small a diameter wire it can cause enough heat to damage that circuit).There is no back distance grid ladder scale. Wires are not long enough for any hatch type SUV in my opinion. Length is probably OK for a very small sedan. The license plate camera must be mounted with the wire facing 'up' or else the image will be upside down.In short, the installation was difficult enough without having to contend with the extremely poor quality diameter PYLE wires that had to be spliced plus the concern about heat resistance build up. Yet, again, as just installed, the image is crystal clear and adequate in the dark. --- After a few months of use I will post a "longevity performance review". --- Because of the PYLE wire diameter, had I known, I would have probably been willing to pay more for a better quality system. --- TIP: Shield the wires near the main vehicle harness at the driver door threshold and up past the fuse box by wrapping them with Romex household wire exterior sheath insulation to prevent engine ignition interference at the monitor, and do not tap your hot wire for the montior into the fuse box. Find a power source to feed the monitor away from the fuse box.The part of the Pyle schematic NOT shown is the wiring of the dash mounted 3.5" monitor. The extra pig tail with tags labeled 'Video' and 'Camera' are to be used at the monitor. Then there is an open wire (no RCA Jack). This wire lead without the RCA Jack is to be hard wired to vehicle power (Pyle Red Wire is 'hot'). Black is ground. --- The 'Video' wire is not used at all because this is a multi function pigtail to be obviously used for other Pyle Products. The one labeled 'Camera' RCA Jacks to the rear main wire to the backup camera. --- The 1/8" diameter black Pyle wire sheath contains the two small (as in microscopic) diameter red and black wires. The sheath must be stripped back to expose these two wires in the pigtail. Then those in turn may need to be stripped to ad a 1/16" butt connector for lengthening the wires to reach where you need them. Again, cover the butt connectors as spliced with shrink wrap and electrical tape. --- Good Luck.

Review of the Pyle PLCM36 rearview camera with night vision.I have just completed the installation of the Pyle PLCM rearview camera on my 2010 Ford F-150 Super Crew Pickup. I did not want to spend the money for the GPS/Rearview camera that was available as part of an accessory package. It was just too much money. So I decided I would check out an after-market unit. I found several and chose this product.The installation process is complete and I can say that I am very pleased with this unit and it is working However, I felt that I needed to warn prospective buyers of what to expect in the installation of this unit.As you may have read on other reviews, the installation instructions are just about the worst I've ever seen. A very small wiring diagram that tells you very little As I read them, I realized that this was beyond my auto-electrical experience and knowledge so I asked a good friend for his help. He is a certified auto mechanic and is really good with the electrical side of it. We planned on a 30-45 minute job...which turned into three hours! Lots of soldering and heat-sinking was done to make it all weather-proof. The main problem was that the monitor did not function after the wiring was completed. ??? We finally discovered that the monitor needs it's own power hookup!! This information is NOT provided in the instructions! Finding this solution to the problem took most of the installation time.Also, it would be great if Pyle had added a bit more length to the monitor cables as well as the camera cable that runs from the license plate to the monitor hookup. The cables provided just "barely" made it.One other problem is the LCD lights that surround the camera at the license plate. They are supposed to light when you shift into reverse, giving you more light. So far, this isn't working. I have written Pyle about this. Could be the backup lights are not allowing them to illuminate. Sorta of a pain.Once we wired power to the monitor all was fine. The picture is good and very clear. The unit is small...3.5 inches but I am very happy with that. It does the job and I saved a LOT of money.I hope this helps...I have had my Pyle PLCM36 for several months now and am writing this follow-up to my review to let everyone know that it is GREAT..!! I added some wire to the lead to the camera behind the dash so that I was able to mount it on top of the dash in the 'tray' that exists in the middle of my dash. It is perfect at this location. I originally located it at the front of the shift console. I had to look down to see the monitor, then look up to check my mirrors, etc. Now it is up on the dash and very easy to see with minimal head movement.Also wanted to emphasize the need to seal the connections with good connectors and rubber sealant under the vehicle to keep the moisture out. I also made a real goof when I described the little "lights" around the camera. These are not lights...they are light gathering 'cells' that allow you to see behind you at night. They really do work..!! (not sure of the exact name of them)All in all, this has been one of the best buys I have made in a long time. It does the job and saved me a LOT of money. I recommend this product highly.

Easy fix...however the TFT clarity is below average. Night vision is good though. Best part is, it hook's to the number plate and there is no need to drill Ur car bumper. Overall a not too good not too bad type product.

Worked as described. Easy to install but instructions were very limited.

a ce prix là je me suis dit je prends pas de risque mais je suis agréablement surpris de la qualité d'image, l'angle de la caméra est peut être un peu juste pour voir les deux côté du véhicule mais je destinais cette caméra a supprimer l'angle mort de ma fourgonnette sans vitre arrière, et je suis tout a fait satisfait du résultat, par contre j'ai du le monter en partie haute sous la galerie car au niveau de la plaque d'immatriculation la vision était trop réduite

Livraison rapide et matériel conforme à la description... installation relativement facile et fonctionne très bien. Seul bémol, il faut allumer l'écran quand on active la marche arrière car si on le laisse allumé l'écran reste bleu dès que le moteur est en route... mais je ne regrette pas mon achat surtout à ce prix là

Installed it in a 1992 Nissan D21 Kingcab with a canopy, so I could see when backing in to tight spaces.I'm a professional installer of telecommunications equipment, so this was a piece of cake for me to install. Directions are hazy for the average person though.So a hint: Splice into your reverse light wire for the red wire (solder it - do not just wrap it and tape it!), and crimp a "ring" terminal on to the black one and put it to a factory bolt. Make sure both the camera and the head unit use this same power - no need for one to be on when the other is not. You'll need some extra wire, so look for some wire on amazon or your local hardware store. 16ga-24ga wire would be adequate and easy enough to work with.Also, be sure to acquire some "split loom" to put around any wire running outside, if you have it running under the vehicle or such. Protects it from heat and dirt.If you're still not confident doing it yourself just take it to any car audio shop and they'll wire it no problem. Be sure to specify it needs to be wired to the reverse lights though.