Hydrofarm Agrobrite FLT48 T5 Fluorescent, 4 Foot, 8 Tube Grow Light System, 1 Count (Pack of 1), White

I am setting up a mini grow station in my basement. I plan to grow perennials from seed during the winter with the objective of transplanting them to my garden next Spring. As a newbie to the mysteries of indoor gardening and gardening in general, I also have been baffled by the incredible variety of systems and possibilities, with such a huge range in price and quality. I decided on the Agrobrite after reviewing some possibilities, including LEDs. So after a period of research through the internet, trying to find some technical information, here is what I have found so far.So what I did was to gather the information provided by Hydrofarm and contrast it with some calculations based on my own testing. I downloaded a light meter application to my iPhone, just the kind that yields reading in footcandles and lux. I took some measurements in footcandles (fc) and converted them to lux (CAVEAT: take this measurements with a grain of salt, it is expected that the sensor in the iPhone camera is not as accurate and precise as even the least decent of spectrometers---nevertheless, I used them to guide my analysis). Then using published tables (easily found on the web) I converted lux (which is a photometric unit) to a radiometric unit and then into PAR (Photosynthetically Available Radiation---which as everybody knows, is the part of the spectrum from 400 to 700 nanometers that plant use during what is called vegetative growth).The Agrobrite FLT22 [ASIN:B0031CA3OM Agrobrite T5, FLT22, 2 Foot, 2-Tube Fixture with Included Fluorescent Grow Lights] (which I assume is named after its ballast model and size) portrays two T5 HO bulbs at 6400K, 24 watts each, for a total of 48 watts, both bulbs yielding “up to 4000 lumens” each, I interpret. [the wattage can be found multiplying 120 volts by 0.4 amps, as specified on the box]. Based on this, the pair of T5s in the Agrobrite should be capable of producing up 10800 lm (just using the upper-bound in the range of luminous efficacy for a LED lamp). Hydrofarm, perhaps wisely, put a statement of “up to 4000 lumens”, meaning that for the pair, it should output 8000 lumens. The discrepancy puts their own claim at 74% efficiency [the lower limit of luminous efficacy should be explored too to try to fit their rating].I obtained measurements of 1500 footcandles per tube for a total of 3000 footcandles for both. Using the surface area of my setup: 1.63 square foot, I arrived to a figure around 9700 lm, a slight 22% above Hydrofarm's upper value. Of course, the result is easily attributable to the amount of error introduced by reading irradiance with an iPhone and a cheap application as processing software of choice. I suspect that a combination of sensor error, reflective set-up and liberal use of assumptions put the readings so high, but at the same time my gut tells me that they might not be so far below either.Using these values, I computed 33 PAR watts, shy of 200 mu_mol/m^2.s and a range for PPFD: 869<PPFD<1868. (Again, take into account that this is for the small surface area of 1.63square ft). As reference, a 1000 watt UltraSun Metal Halide lamp, situated 24 in. above plants, claims measured values with a PAR meter of 569-574 mu_mol/m^2.s, peaking at 600 mu_mol/m^2.s. The limit of PAR that plants can handle is around 1500 mu_mol/m^2.s. A good value to achieve could be 500 mu_mol/m^2.s. Obviously, 2 fluorescent tubes seem to be no match for a Metal Halide system, but on the flip side, the cooling is simpler, plants can be located closer to the source, energy usage issues are points to be considered.One cautiously optimistic conclusion could be that for the price point, the Agrobrite FLT22 offers tremendous value, is still economical and robust enough to allow for further expansions.I have under the lights for 13 hrs daily, some sprouts of Hollihock, Salvia, Anisse Hyssop and Ratibida that I was hardening outside in early Fall. Very soon I will be able to tell whether the set up is doing its job.I will post new updates as they occur.

I have used Hydrofarm seedling heat mats, thermostats, and lighting systems for years now and can attest to overwhelming success these have afforded me in getting my garden plants started in late winter.This particular light is well-made and has four replaceable bulbs. The packaging is outstanding and all arrived well, intact, and undamaged when received. I did break one of the bulbs when taking my setup down after springtime planting and I haven't had much success finding "grow light" replacement bulbs at my local hardware store, but finding a 24" T5 that will fit in a pinch shouldn't be too hard. Speciality garden shops may have the 6500K bulbs, or you can pick these up non-Prime on Amazon from several sellers.Heat mats and proper lighting are the key to consistent and prolific germination of seeds started in late winter to be ready for springtime planting.Here's the setup I've used for the past few years:-Park Seed Park's Double Bio Dome with 80 Jumbo Cells. I actually use 2-18 Jumbo Cell for a total of 36 plants. There are several sizes of the Bio-Dome system. I have the DOUBLE Bio-Dome which allows for two seed starting cells (Purchased from Park Seed)-Hydrofarm MT10008 20-by-20-Inch Seedling Heat Mat (Purchased from Amazon)-Hydrofarm FLT24 2-ft/ 4-Tube T5 Commercial System with Bulbs (Purchased from Amazon)-Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Thermostat For Heat Mats (Purchased from Amazon)-Style Selections 36-in H x 24-in W x 18-in D 3-Tier Steel Freestanding Shelving Unit (Purchased from Lowe's)The modular, adjustable wire shelving unit gives me the foundation for my indoor winter seed-starting setup. The shelves are adjustable so that I can hang the grow light on the underside of the top shelf, then adjust the middle shelf so that the top of the Bio Dome is about 6-8 inches from the light. This allows for enough room to remove the top of the Bio Dome in the event I need to access the plants for watering, fertilizing, etc. The bottom shelf is great for storing my remaining planting supplies.The light is almost the same size as the Double Bio-Dome and provides 100% light coverage necessary for young plants to thrive. A few years back, I tried to use a light that was only 2 bulbs and half the size of the one I currently use. You could tell that the young plants would angle toward the light hanging in the middle, and those on the outer edges didn't grow as quickly and tall as those in the middle. Take it from someone who spent $25 - $50 each year over the course of several years trying to find a light that would work well with my seed starting system. I knew about the Hydrofarm light early on, but wasn't too eager to purchase it due to it's higher cost. I wish I would have gotten it first because I would have saved money in the long run considering the poor-performing lights I purchased in years prior to getting the one listed above.The Park Seed Bio Dome is an extraordinary seed-starting system that allows your plants to grow quite large without root binding problems found in other tray-type seed starting setups. Park uses the styrofoam cell matrix with replaceable organic bio-sponges in which the seeds are planted.I regulate the temperature of the seed heat mat with the Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Thermostat set at between 85-90 degrees. This thermostat has a temperature probe you can insert into one of the organic bio-sponges to obtain a direct soil reading. I route the probe through one of the vent holes in the lid of the Bio-Dome.In order to capture the most heat from the heat mat, while allowing the thermostat to regulate the temperature of the mat, I first take a folded beach towel and place it on the middle shelving rack. I then set the heat mat on top of the towel, then place the Bio-Dome on top of the heat mat. This allows me to recover most of the heat that would otherwise radiate from the exposed, bottom side of the heat mat.Watering with the Bio-Dome setup is easy and, depending on how you have the vents adjusted in the lid, performed infrequently at best due to the efficiency of water vapor recovery of the Bio-Dome system.I typically start tomato and pepper plants in mid-February so that they are ready for planting by the first week of May. You may want to check online for your indoor planting and outdoor transplanting dates depending on your region and climate.I hope my sharing with you what has worked quite well for me will help you in your seed-starting endeavors!

I use this in my 3x3 and its never failed my plants, they grow perfect under this lighting for veg

Es una alternativa para los que queremos una lampara para acuario. Solo.cambia los t5 especiales para acuario y listo. Nota te tiene botón de encendido, tendrías que ponerle uno, pero yo recomiendo un timer, que no sean de esos inteligentes porque soportan solo 15 amperios y al acabo de 3 mins se apagan solo, busca los tradicionales.

Amazing build quality, great results with a Kratky setup at home. Have two that are now over 2 years old, would purchase again.

Enlightening

good quality. Love the lights and so do my plants!