Blair 13224 3/8" Double End Spotweld Cutter

I got this cutter to replace my older one that I actually wore out...dull teeth and loose arbor. I didn't even look for other brands because the old one worked well.

You really need to put a dimple pilot in place and then start with that. Don’t feel all the way through with the pilot. It was working great and then I drove all the way through on one of the pilot holes and it broke the teeth so I had to turn it around and use the other side. Most likely just user error. Works great otherwise.

t's almost disturbing how fast and effective this thing is. It is probably the most effective drilling/cutting tool I have ever owned.Some things I noticed about it. Don't let it skip, don't run the drill too fast and keep it straight once you start or the teeth may break. Stop frequently and check your progress, this thing cuts fast. It can go through 16ga panels in a few seconds.If you are cutting a large number of spot welds, it may pay you get get a pack of extra blades for this thing. Part of the reason it is so effective at cutting is because the teeth are hardened. The down side of hardening steel is that even though it makes the steel resistant to bending (which keeps the edges sharp) it makes it brittle and more prone to breakage.It is important to get the Blair "RotaBroach" lube stick that goes with this thing or something similar. It helps keep the blade cool (and therefore sharp), helps keep the blade from catching on the metal in the cut and therefore skipping and breaking and also aids in making a cleaner, faster cut. The lubricant stick is a waxy solid, so it also keeps the tool from flinging tiny bits of paint, rust and metal all over you and your garage. It means there is less filthy mess to sweep up/wash off of you later.Wipe off the tool after every cut and re-lubricate before every cut to minimize breakage, wear and mess. When flipping over a blade, poke the old lube out of the center with a q-tip, the grit in it will keep the blade from screwing in.

Keep a firm hand while applying pressure on panel

First one I used was fantastic. I used it for probably 100-150 spot welds, and 5 sides of the 2x sided cutters. I did however file the back end of the tool to have 6 sides instead of 3, so it could fit in a standard 1/4" hex bit extension for those hard to reach spots (Blair, this should be 6 sided by default)The first tool was purchased a while ago... And the center punch finally snapped off inside and shot out. I picked up the center punch piece and inserted it back into the tool and kept going (it worked, but would shoot out if I punched through both pieces of sheet metal). Eventually I lost the center punch so I opened up my 2nd order of the tool from Amazon last month or so. I drilled one spot weld then noticed I couldn't stay on center. I upped the tension of the center punch to about 5mm below the surface of the back of the tool like the 1st tool (the sweet tension spot that I found) and tried again. Again, bit walk... I looked and the center punch was totally rounded!! The metal is way softer! :( I couldn't believe they lowered the quality of such a great tool. I now had to use a punch to indent the center of the spot weld, but still had problems... Thankfully I was almost done with my project, but I was very disappointed... Blair does sell replacement punch tips, but it's nearly the cost of the tool for a pack of 3, and I don't trust that the quality will be like the original. Maybe it was just the one tool that I received... (It was sharp out of the package) sigh...

Blair spotweld cutters are the best i have used so far..i used bluepoint rotabrocach for a lot if years..had to replace those kits often as they would dull out easily..the blair cutters are a little more brittle and will break if drilling at an angle..but overall great and much cheaper product.!

Let me set the record straight on this cutter, as it took me a while to get the hang of it. yes i broke the first 3 tips i used....BUT that was because i started too slow. some tips for long(er) life to the cutting bits. 1) surface prep, grind or sand so as level as possible - this really applies to badly rusted and pitted parts. 2) get a good sharp center punch and leave a good spot for the point of the tool to rest on 3) LUBE IT UP! i used tap cutting fluid and separately a drill wax, both worked well and 4) finally, ease into it, i got the drill going full go and would slowly hit the surface and bounce off, using the spring loaded center point, until the cutting path was well established, then you can really lay into it...but be careful, it cuts FAST.

I was a "bit" (no pun intended) taken back of the size of this #13216 Arbor/retractable Pilot, which houses or holds the adjoining 3/8" double-end Cutters, in the Blister Pack. Its smaller in diameter than a pencil and only about two inches long.... like a very small drill bit. Never the less I thought it was much larger than it was, which, I guess, is neither here or there.After a couple expired bits, I really found it to be very...and I mean very, difficult to remove the bits from the threaded shaft. I had to resort to putting the arbor into a vice, clamping it down, TIGHT, and removing the bit with a pair of vice grips. The threads are common right handed threads so there should be no doubt one would remove the bit in left handed motion. Every time I removed a bit, same thing. This is caused by the right handed direction the bit turns when removing spot welds. Understandable, but they really become torqued in place.See my review under "Double End Spotweld Cutter - 3/8 In - 3Pk", where I will review the bits. You'll be able to put the whole picture together, this way. As far as the bits go.. well, you see.