American Lighting 043X-4-WH Priori Xenon Under Cabinet Hardwire Light, 80-Watts, Hi/Low/Off Switch, 120-Volt, 32-Inch, White

I love the coloring and low profile design of these lights. Installing wasn't a big deal. Because they are low profile, there isn't a lot of space in chamber for extra wiring or pig tails to extend your electrical wires, so be prepared for that. The magnetic window for covering the lights is a nice touch, but require some real finesse and work to get to close properly. It can close easily, but I noticed on all 8 of my fixtures that it doesn't close properly on the left side, and light bleeds out. In order for it to seat 100% correctly, it takes some playing with, as the little arms on the door bend easily and can make this difficult.I am linking 2 14" lights directly together, as the next size up is barely too big. This adds cost to my project, but not their fault. I have had great results directly linking them with no flaws. I find now light flickering when connected to a $20 universal dimmer from home depot. These lights really do have a full range of dim levels. When fully dimmed they are barely even noticeable.I have found one minor flaw. After installing one I realized I hadn't prepped the hole in the dry wall correctly so needed to take the light back out. The wire connectors inside are push in connectors, and once the wires are pushed in, I see no way to pull them back out. So had to cut and use a basic wire nut to reinstall...

These lights look great, they are nice and bright and you can't beat the price. The color temperature is just right, warm but not too yellow. They do get moderately hot, but so do all xenon and halogen fixtures. Installation instructions were definitely written for professionals - in other words you're pretty much on your own due to lack of information, so here are some tips based on my installation...Those hard to knock out knock-outs: The hole covers are held on by four little nubs which are supposed to break off when you try to punch them out, but (of course) they don't. If you have a dremel, fit it with a metal burnishing bit or a tiny grinding stone and carefully grind down two adjacent nubs. You now should be able to punch the hole partly out enough so you can work it back and forth until it comes off. As an alternative, get the linking cable, plug one end into the fixture, and cut the connector off the other end so the wires can be spliced onto a plug or into an electrical box. That way you don't have to bother with the knock-outs at all.The clearance is too narrow for the clamp connector nut to spin? Okay, do it backwards. With your finger(s), hold the nut over the hole on the inside of the fixture. Next put the threaded end of clamp connector through the hole, into the nut, and turn the connector instead of trying to turn the nut. When tight, the two screw heads on the clamp should be facing up so that the fixture will mount against a flat surface. If the screw heads don't face up, unscrew the clamp, take out the nut and turn it 1/6th of a turn and try again until the screw heads are almost facing up when hand tight. You might have to do this a few times till you find the right spot. Once you do, finish tightening by inserting a screw driver, hole punch, or some sort of metal rod into the hole on the bottom of the clamp connector and twist the connector home.Easy? No. But it fixes the problems. Hope you found this useful!*** UPDATE 01/18/16. The price went up $20 since I wrote this review, so you definitely can beat the price now. In fact, for the current $68 price you might be better off looking for an LED under cabinet light. That way you wouldn't have to replace the bulbs every couple of months. The price increase coupled with lower prices of lower maintenance LED s forces me to take off two stars. The price of an LED equivalent would be about how much I paid for replacement bulbs since I purchased this light. The value just isn't there anymore.

As a contractor, I have installed these lights in 6 different kitchens and have always been pleased with them. They're thin enough that they always disappear under the cabinets. I usually run wiring as needed to each cabinet, then connect them all to one dimmer switch. Even though each light has it's own high/lo switch, my customers have always liked the idea to be able to control them all on one dimmer. The different sizes they come in work with any cabinet layout. The only complaint I have are the knock-out plugs(round discs that have to be removed to run wiring to each light) on them are not really"knock outs". Its a real pain in the *** to get the knockouts out. After installing my first few(and destroying one) I learned the only way to get them out involves drilling small holes around each knock-out(while being very careful not to drill into any wiring components), then using pliers to try to pry them out. I really wish they could punch out the metal at the factory properly, so that it wouldn't take ten minutes to remove something that should take 5 seconds.

I'll sum it up quickly:Pros:Easy to open and change bulbs as face is magneticSleek design, very low profileCons:Difficult to hardwire, knockouts are almost as thick as the unit and they do not knockout out at all. They must be drilled with a cobalt drill bit. I nicked the wiring inside while doing the drilling and also scraped up the unit itself.If you knockout at the far left back (facing the unit) it's difficult to compact all the wiring back into the unit in order to close the cover. There's just too much wiring passing thru such a small case.The linking cables are huge.....taking away from the sleek design. If you have two long cabinets flanking a shorter sink cabinet, then find another light!!! The linking cables would ruin the whole look. I thought I would solve the problem by mounting on top of the cabinets and running the linking cable down the filler space.....nope.....not an option....they don't make long enough linking cables.Overall: Would not buy again. I missed my return window so now I have very expensive over cabinet lighting!!!!!

Added it to a few other overhead cabinets lights we installed a few years ago. Was concerned this "warm" would not match the other "warm" (this is LED and they were Xenon) but it fits in great.

Very similar (knock-off ?) to an under cabinet fixture by CSL Lighting that I have used. Not as bright as I expected, but decent task light. I think the CSL fixture uses 35 watt bulbs vs 20 watt on this product. Not a lot of space inside if you hardwire, but possible with a bit of fiddling. Overall good for the price point.

These lights work really well with the junction box. It's a must to decrease the installation time.