Ice Toolz Crown Race Remover | Crown Race Remover Bike Tool | Fits 1-1/2"

This is a pretty simple tool. Mount the two sides of the clamp either side of your headset bearing race and tighten the bolts until the angled grips push in between the race and fork crown. It was pretty straightforward. Once the angled grips have moved the race up the taper on the steerer, a couple of knocks with a rubber mallet should get it off easily.No damage caused as remarked by some other reviewers. I think you’d have to really over tighten this thing to get the grips to contact the steerer. You just need to break the seal and then tap the race off.To be honest the price seems quite high considering what the tool actually is, but if you’re going to be removing headsets then it’s still worth it.

I was suspicious about this one. I had a stubborn tapered cane creek lower race that wouldn't budge. I ordered this tool and found it to be surprisingly sturdy. Quality is good and it did the job without issue. Be sure that you don't tighten up too much though, is can easily damage your steerer tube. From the looks of it, this tool will last my lifetime of removing bearing races. No regrets.

I had no problems using this on a carbon fiber fork that had a old stubborn race. Tighten it down just enough to get the lip under the race. Tap it loose a little. Retighten a little more and tap it down some more. Just don't keep tightening to the point where the sharp edges touch the fork tube and damage it. Small taps and slowly work the race down the tube.

This tool worked flawlessly for me. Used it to remove an FSA crown race from a tapered RockShox Lyrik fork. They have an instructional video that says it all. The key to using this is not to overdo it. Just tighten the tool slowly and evenly enough to get the edges under the crown race then turn the fork around and tap the tool as shown in the video. Tighten the tool a little more and again turn upside down and tap a little more. Little by little and the crown race just pops off when upside down tapping. Do not try to tighten the tool all the way to pop the crown race in one shot. Oh and lubricate the crown race and tool with grease prior to using. These are the steps I took and it went perfectly. Worth the money.

One year and four attempts at using this tool: time for an update. I recently pulled an FSA steel crown race - that had been installed only 4 months – from an aluminum steerer. The bike was used solely on an indoor trainer, so the installation was super clean and I wanted to sell the almost-new fork. I liberally used Teflon lubricant and worked extremely slowly. This tool still produced small gouges in the aluminum crown. I don't know if this is due to the Ice Toolz design or due to the nature of this style of race remover. I've included images of the scratches left in an almost new suspension fork.This is a home-shop or infrequent use tool that produces marginal results. I will continue to use this tool for low end repairs. But for high end forks (particularly carbon), I will pay to have a local shop remove the fork race using a Park CRP-2.__________________________________________________________________________________________________The Ice Toolz is a home-grade tool which works acceptably on certain fork types. If the race is tightly installed, it's necessary to use a razor blade to create enough space for the Ice Toolz's beveled edge to get between the race and crown. This tool is definitely not recommended for carbon forks with carbon steer tubes - the angle of beveled edge will damage the fork crown. It will also scratch paint and anodizing.

While in concept this thing is supposed to be good, it's garbage. I used this trying to remove a crown race from a RockShox Lyrik Select+ suspension fork and it scored the crap out of the crown and steerer tube.

I was able to use this tool to easily remove a 1.5 crown race with no marring to race nor fork crown. Blades were plenty sharp and easily slipped under the race. once it was clearly under the race a couple easy taps with a hammer popped it right off.

Works as advertised. Seems to be very sturdy in build quality. Pulled the crown races off a 1.5" Bluto and then off of my Trek Farley Carbon fork. No damage was done to either. It's important to NOT tighten the bolts down to the steer tube, you just want it wedged under the race and then gently tap it off. It's not elegant, and its a little awkward but when you compare it to the price of the park tool it does the same job at a fraction of the cost.

I HAVE A RIGID,CRO-MO, MARIN BOLINAS RIDGE Ca. 20 YEARS OLD. TRIED TO SWOP RIGID FOR A S/H MARZOCCHI. STEM IS A BIT TOO SHORT. O/E FORK, HAS CROWN RACE FOR TINY, LINKED, BALL-BEARING BOTTOM BEARING. GOT A NEW CARTRIDGE HEADSET, AS RELUCTANT TO RE-USE, OLD SET. POPPED THE OLD CUPS OUT EASILY. PRESSED NEW CUPS IN WITH LITHIUM GREASE TO EASE. BUT O/E FORK HAS A VERY TIGHT CROWN RACE, PROFILED FOR O/E BEARING. WRONG FOR CARTRIDGE BEARING! I USED THIS TOOL, CAREFULLY, THE GUIDANCE, IS USE A LONG CROSS-HEAD (PHILLIPS) SHANK, AS A DRIFT, GENTLY TAPPING INTO THE TWO OPPOSITE READY-DRILLED SOCKETS, IN THE TOOL BODY, FROM BOTTOM SIDE OF FORK-STEM, ONCE IT IS MOUNTED EVENLY, INTO THE THOU-THICK SPACE, BETWEEN THE CROWN-RACE AND THE FLAT, CIRCULAR RING, ON THE TOP OF THE WELD JOINING THE FORK-LEGS. CAME-OFF, CLEAN. LITHIUMED,LOCATED BOTH NEW,CARTRIDGE, HEADSET BEARINGS, IN CUPS, PUT THE RIGHT TWO COMPRESSION RINGS IN, ADHERING, WITH LITHIUM GREASE. PASS THE STEM TUBE UP THROUGH BOTH BEARINGS. THEN USE THE CAP SCREW, TO PULL THE FORK UP AND SEAT THE HEAD RACE, THAT CAME WITH THE NEW HEADSET. WHEN HOME, ALIGN THE HANDLEBARS, EXACTLY SQUARE TO THE FORK LEG AXIS, AND EVENLY TIGHTEN THE TWO CAP-HEAD PINCH-BOLTS ON THE HANDLEBAR EXTENSION CLAMP, AROUND THE TOP OF THE STEM TUBE. CHECK ALIGNMENT, JOB DONE! THIS TOOL WORKED, WHEN NARROW, BLUED-STEEL FLAT SCREWDRIVER DIDN'T! SOLID CONSTRUCTION, STEEL, LASTS AS LONG AS YOU DO. VERY GOOD, RE-USEABLE TOOL, TO HAVE. 5-STAR.

I bought this to remove a race that was on a much abused bike. The whole front end was rusty and the headset had completely disintegrated (apart from the fork crown race!!). I'd tried the usual tricks, including the Stanley knife blade, heat and another removal tool, all to no avail. This tool had it off in less than 5 minutes. Fantastic 😊👍🏾

Unlike some similar looking tools, this one is really well built, and can be torqued down to slowly extract the crown race, without having to hit with a hammer in various places..

I have several £100-200 crown race removers in the workshop. It is very unusual that this little tool can't do the job instead and with greater ease of use. I own 2.

This is amazing! I didn't have to use a hammer or screw driver. I placed it over the crown race and slowly tightened the bolts. Once it was tight I just twisted it and the crown race popped up.