Prestige APS787Z One-Way Remote Start/Keyless Entry and Security System with up to 1 Mile Operating Range + Free Gravity Magnet Holder

I was disappointed in this product...I bought AutoPage because it has the built in relays and good reviews, However I will do more shopping around and most likely WILL NOT buy this product on the next vehicle I plan on installing a remote start on.1st - They should be more up front and make it well known that you WILL most likely need a Ignition Bypass added to it to make it work. This is a device that tricks your car in to thinking there is a key (with a chip) in the ignition. This device will cost you an extra $50. Oh wait, the Ignition Bypass needs to be program to match your Car. OK so how do you do that? You just hook it up to your home computer and "Flash" the device, it only takes a couple minutes, and you will only have to do it once, did I mention it is FREE? Well to flash your device is FREE however you will need a SPECIAL cable to hook the device to the PC. This simple USB cable will cost you another $50 bucks...2nd - I tried to find out ahead of my purchase what the range of remote starter was. I could not find it in the Specs. I looked at the reviews and could not find it. I decided since no one listed a problem with it, it must be OK, like a couple thousand feet. After installing the remote starter I did my own test. The remote will start the car at a distant of 300 to 400 feet at the best. No wonder they did not list the range in the specs.I try to very honest and generous with my reviews, I probably should have given it 1 or 2 stars.Now for the installion :I'm a decent mechanically minded man (50+ years) that do not trust a local stereo/alarm shop to install an under the dash system in my 2012 Ford Escape. OK so maybe I'm just to tight to pay the extra $$$ to have it installed. I welcomed the challenge.I must admit when you first open the box and see ALL the wires on the Remote Starter and Ignition Bypass I was totally overwhelmed. As I sorted threw the 50 to 60 wires I realized I needed less then half of them. And as You do a search of wiring diagram on the internet you will find all most all you need to figure out which wire goes where. It did take a better part of 2 days to install, but I was very cautious and careful (FEARFULL) of any wire I spiced into.I hooked up all the option wires (dome and park lights, horn, door locks etc...) but then decided that I did not want the Remote Starter fob to lock the doors because if you unlock the doors with the OEM fob it will set off the alarm. So I disconnected the door lock/unlock wires. We will use the OEM fob to lock/unlock the doors and the Remote Starter fob to start the vehicle and arm/unarm the alarm. Thus I do not need the lights wired either.As a last note: I was always concerned about the vehicle being started (on accident) in the attached garage. I figured out a simple safety solution. The Remote Starter has a white and black (or was it black and white?) wire that has to be grounded for the car to start (this is the "neutral to start" wire) I spiced it into the back side of the parking brake warning light switch wire. This wire goes to ground only when the parking brake is applied. So now you have to set the parking brake to get the car to remote start. We never set the parking brake in the garage.I wish you the best of luck and alots of patients if you decide to tackle an install yourself. Just remember it is not as bad as it looks, JUST TACKLE ONE WIRE AT A TIME!!! before you know it you will run out of wires...Helpful tools to have on hand:Power Probe PPPP01 Green Wire Piercing Probe for LS01 - Google it - it will save your fingers when you miss the wire with the probe.INNOVA 3420 Smart Test Light / Circuit Tester - Google it also - it will tell you if you have a hot or ground wire in one step without spiking your cars computer.

I am an auto tech thats installed many remote starts, so nothing surprising for me. They are not the easiest to install, but it all worked correctly once wired up, and I was able to run through some options to customize to my liking. Unfortunately, you cannot change about half of the settings or options without purchasing an extra cable to download software with, which they want you to be an authorized seller/installer for, which is just BS to lock out many features with a software block, just because the installer is not one of the companies "authorized seller/installer".

I installed this in my teenage son's Dodge Stratus for Christmas. The hardest part was working in cold weather. When I first opened up the access panels to his console, I almost said "forget this!". But the installation is not as hard as it looks, as long as you: 1. Go online and download the wiring diagram for your exact vehicle. There are several alarm installation companies who publish online, free PDF's with under dash photos, and labels with arrows pointing to the wires you will use. I'm not sure why they do this, but they do. Download and print these with a good color printer. The official manual for your car will not as good as these online pictures & diagrams.2. A few days before you plan to do your work, open up your console to verify that the wires and colors match.3. If you don't have a wire stripper that can pull back the insulation without cutting the wire, then buy one. You can get one for about $15 that works.4. Don't use snap-on splice connectors, unless you like false alarms at 3:00 AM, etc. Solder all connections. Use a good plastic electrician's tape with a wide temperature rating (Ace Hardware sells several).5. Do the "guy" thing and just stare at the wires before you do anything so that you can identify them. If you do radio and electronic work like I do, and you have some of those Fluke test probes that use a tiny puncture pin to sample voltages on a wire without damaging the insulation, so much the better. But they are not absolutely necessary. Test each circuit by either grounding it or supplying 12V whichever applies to verify that it's the correct wire. This is especially important with the remote start wires.Take your time. Be advised that if you need factory help, and you don't have a dealer code, Autopage won't help you. I'm a Professional Engineer with a State of MD license number, and while NAPCO would help me with my home alarm system, Autopage would not (I got one email small "tip" from them). However, Autopage is now owned by Varad, so they might be more friendly. None of the companies that I found would deal with DIY'ers. But if you do it yourself, you will fully understand how these devices work, and how your car works, plus you will save a huge amount of money.One last thing: Autopage has on-board micro-relays that can control your parking lights and other circuits directly and safely without external relays. That is GOOD. Some companies require that you buy five or six external relays, which is BAD, and a HASSLE. There's not a lot of room for mounting stuff inside car dashes these days, and external relays make the task nearly impossible. I mounted my son's control unit to the thick, heavy wire harness that goes through the firewall to the engine compartment using wire ties.My son's shock sensor sensor came perfectly adjusted from the factory. A modest rap on a window with your knuckles or palm, or a bump on the bumper with your knee triggers three short chirps to warn you away, plus it sends a warning to the pager unit. A little harder bump and the alarm goes off. But it has NEVER gone off due to wind or trucks passing by. That's another big plus. It's mildly windy here today and I heard someone's alarm going off in the parking lot for no apparent reason. You don't want to be that guy!