AC 80-260V 100A BAYITE-PZEM-061 LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with Current Transformer CT

I have a solar system on my house with Enphase micro inverters. To monitor the output of the system I used the Enphase Envoy which allowed me to keep track of system performance. But starting about a year ago, the Envoy stopped working and the warranty on it had expired. I found a fix on line and that worked for a while but the problem returned. The problem seems to be a bad connection between the main board and the board that has the LCD display. It is clearly a bad design. Enphase was of no help with this matter and wanted $500 for a replacement. Mind you, the device does nothing but monitor the system, so I am reluctant to part with that much cash. So I started looking for some way that I could just see if the system was working at a glance. I found this meter and it was very simple to install and appears to be accurate. Reading seem to be just like before. Now I know at a glance if the system is performing normally, which is all I really need.

I wanted to make an extension cord with a built in power meter so that I could monitor the power being drawn from my Honda Generator. I tested several items using a meter that I know is accurate and when I compared the values measured by this inexpensive little unit they were well within accurate levels (like within 1 watt for a 100 watt load).Wiring was easy and straight forward and the display is bright and easy to read, though does fade when viewing from angles, so try and install or mount where you will be able to read more or less straight on.Overall very impressive little meter. I would highly recommend it for someone trying to monitor their power usage.

Well I had a 50/50 chance and I managed to install my meter upside down. I misplaced the instructions, but they were pretty minimal from what I remember. I can't complain about the meter though. It works great, especially once I figured out how to reset the energy usage.I installed it to measure the Total Energy cost for my EV on a 240V circuit. That included the cost of electricity that the meter itself consumes, which is roughly 1.5 watts of power if it's correct. The current transformer (CT) was sufficiently large enough to slip a 6 gauge wire though for the power measurement.I only wish it had a bit better resolution on the kWH energy meter. Once it gets into the teens you lose the tenth of a digit of precision. It really doesn't matter since the power company bills on kWH. I just happen to be a data nerd. For the cost of the meter it's seems like an outstanding value.

This is a very inexpensive solution to metering power. Extreme care needs to be taken when installing this in a breaker panel, as the CT wires are very short and not rated to touch energized parts. It would be much easier to use if the CT was a split design, and could be installed without disconnecting the power cables. Obviously using this in a breaker panel should only be done by qualified people.We have this installed in a 240/120 US standard breaker panel. As it was a 50 amp sub panel the power could be shut off and the total current would not exceed 50 amps in each of the incoming lines. CT was capable of having both 120 feeds, passing through the CT in opposite directions. This adds the power in the two feeds. Then one breaker was used to feed 120V to the Voltage input. This allows it to read the power for both 120 feeds as one value. The CT rating is only 100 amps, so it is important not to exceed the rating of the CT by placing it on higher current circuits.It seems reasonably accurate and totals the power over time. No real tests were conducted, but the known loads match pretty closely. It has been running for a week and shows 73 kwh.To install this I needed to extend the CT wires. I used a wire splice and 22 gauge wire to extend the CT wires about 4 feet. The voltage wire I used standard romex 14 gauge wire and a 15 amp breaker. This is not needed, but lower value breakers are hard to locate and NEC wants the wire protected. I brought these to a double gang standard plastic electrical box. In the box I used a smaller flexible wire to connect the 14 gauge romex to the Bayite terminal strips.To mount the Bayite unit, I cut a standard nylon double blank plate to fit the unit with a utility knife, actually not that easy to get exactly right. The small tabs which pop out to hold the unit broke immediately as the cover plate appeared to be slightly too thick. So I glued the unit to the cover with a bead of Silicon caulk all along the back. This is not ideal but it allows the use of standard electrical hardware which is available in any hardware store, and lets it be mounted in the wall. There is not much spare space for the Bayite to mount in a normal box, it may not be a good idea to use a metal box to mount the unit as there is not much clearance to the terminal board.

Really happy with the quality and performance of these meters. As with other reviewers, the instructions could have been better but with a little time and effort they are not that hard to figure out. I wish they would have had a single meter that measured both legs of the split phase 240v at the same time but getting used to seeing what's really going on with each leg. It's nice that the dark meters only activate when power is applied to the circuits. I can switch from grid to inverter and the appropriate meters activate and report. I did put the 100A meter on a 125A circuit and found that it simply displays all 8's when you go over 100A. The DC meter does a good job of telling me where my battery bank is and how many amps are being pulled. All in all I feel the price paid is well below the value realized. Happy customer.

I was concerned when I saw the price and thought this would be a cheap little thing that will last about 20 seconds. But I was impressed when I got it and it will suit my application nicely. I also put a multi-meter on the items to to test this meter's accuracy and it is dead on.I had one issue with the screen backlight on-off switch. The unit's enclosure made the button so short you needed a pen or something to push it as it was recessed too deep into the plastic. So I took mine apart, and de-soldered the switch and re-soldered a new switch with a button that is about 1/8" longer (you can find these switched anywhere they sell electronics like radio shack or i'm sure somewhere on amazon), and it works nicely.