Nylon Filament Alloy 910 High Heat Deflection 1.75mm 3D Printer Consumable, Polyamide (PA) 1lb Spool, Fits Nearly All FDM 3D Printers (Black)

This is a specialty nylon product, and care with part design, print orientation and proper printer equipment is necessary for success. Minimize the diameter and footprint of the part on the bed. Print slow, on a garolite bed. I'm printing at 295c with a 55c garolite bed at 28mm/s in an enclosure.Even though its sealed, this filament needs to be dried before printing. 12 hours in a converted food dehydrator did the trick. Awesome results if you print slow and use a raft.

First time I tried to use this on my Ender 3 V2, I installed a MicroSwiss all metal hot end, but hadn't modified my firmware to allow temps higher than 260C (the highest stock temp), and the results were, well, awful. See three photo's of the prints in process. The filament also congealed on my nozzle.Then, I modded the firmware to allow me to print per Taulman3D's instructions from their website. Nozzle temp 285C - 300C, Retraction = 3-4mm, bed temp 55C. It worked great.I had broken one of the wheels from our shopping cart, and rather than spend $30 for two (I only need one), I made the wheel out of the Taulman3D Alloy 910 HDT , and the "rubber" tire from light blue TPU. Printed at 0.28mm layer size, which is why the wheel looks a little "rough", but function over form, it worked very well. Added two press fit 608 bearings, to improve on the original. Thinking about making a matching wheel for the other side...maybe.All in all, this is a very good, but demanding, filament. For those applications where you need high heat resistance, and/or strong prints, this is a solid solution.Highly recommended.

I thought this filament was standard Nylon, turns out it's some sort of specialty. There were a few other brands I wanted to try but this one was black like I wanted and the price seemed ok. The roll I received was labeled as Very Dark Blue and defiantly has a blue tone to it. Its also kind of a nightmare to get it to print on my mk3s, but in all fairness I knew the challenge of nylon going in. What I'm bothered by the most is the misleading advertising, this is defiantly not Black. If it wasn't such a pain I would just return it.

First let me state it's a horrible idea to go past 285C with a factory Ender 3 V2 glass bead thermistor, as they aren't accurate past that temperature at all. Now, onto the material. Assuming you have a thermistor capable of reaching 300C SAFELY, you're going to run into issues if you try to jog 100mm using Octoprint. I tried to get it to consistantly extrude at 285, 300, all the way to 320C and I couldn't get the same number 2 times when trying to dial in the extrusion width. I kept looking at my newly installed EZR Struder as the culprit, swapped back to my dual gear Winsinn, same issue.... Cranked the spring down, same issue. Looked in the terminal and it was extruding by using the command G1 E100 F3000, which this material just simply didn't like at all in my setup. I tried PID tuning it to verify it was truly at 300C also, no change. Finally I typed G1 E100 F60 and that worked perfectly. Started a print at 60mm/s and it produced the cube on the left at 20% infill in my damp cold basement. Tried looking online for a suggested printing speed and couldn't find any info, they list best adhesion at 55C with glue on glass, they must be using an enclosure for that because in my basement this material warps pretty good. I dry all my nylon in a rosewill dehydrator for at least 6 hours before attempting prints, also. Cube on the left is 100% infill with the glue on glass bed at 80C, printing at 300C and 60mm/s. I'm going to build an enclosure for my Ender Extender 400 and test in that, also. Once Polymaker has PA6-GF back in stock I'm going to give that a try. For now I have this to play with and I'll be buying Polymide CoPa shortly to compare to this.I'm still very early into the test stages and will update with any relevant settings I find.TLDR, very little info on print settings exists and I had trouble setting E steps at first because telling the printer to extrude 100mm ran too fast for this material at 100C

The listing is clearly for black filament as you can see the sticker in the photos, however I received a black/blue color which is very obviously not black. Ended up returning, Amazon let me keep the roll.Furthermore, I pretty much only print with engineer grade nylons with a heated chamber, and this is the only filament that wants to warp on me if the part has an even remotely wide base. Don’t even bother trying to print anything larger than a small part with this filament, it warps way too much. If I can’t print it proper with a heated chamber, doubt it will work with a heated bed.

Sticks to glass bed OK with Wolfbite. Finished part can warp when cooled depending on shape.Needed baking even new out of the packet.

This is a great filament, but if your use to only printing PLA or your machine is a lowend chinese machine you won't be able to get this correct. First and foremost it is super important to print this at right around 285c on the hotend and in an enclosure, I recommend the magigoo bed adhesive for nylon as it works fantastic with this nylon. Secondly and I can't say this enough, even out of the bag this filament is wet, before any use it needs to spend 48 hours in a dehydrator I have found and I live in a desert. If you don't do this, not only will your print be weaker but it will be so stringy. Last but not least is the annealing to make the Nylon stronger its 170c for 2 hours, and for whoever stated no documentation you can just contact taulman3d they have some great customer service.