Sight Tool with Heavy-Duty Construction and Rotatable Sight Prong, Sight Adjustment Tool Sight Removal Tool

Solidly built, easy to use, and works great -- I've run this through a handful of different pistols without any issues. Adjusting sights used to mean a trip to the gunsmith or a lot of fussing around with a punch and hammer; this makes it a non-event. Really good value at this price. Highly recommend.

This sight pusher has saved me hundreds of dollars and just as much time by allowing me to quickly install and/or properly align factory or aftermarket sights across multiple manufacturers (S&W, FN, HK, Beretta, CZ, etc.). Some sight removals (especially S&W) required a LOT of torque which resulted in multiple bouts of being struck with brass punches/hammers and this sight pusher has held up flawlessly each time. Here are some tips I've learned along the way to help protect this tool and my slides: 1.) Use CLP as needed on all threads of the tool (Helped with fine adjustments and ease of use) 2.) Use additional padding between your slide and the vice knobs to protect your slide finish while ensuring a secure hold 3.) For open-top slides (Beretta), use a small piece of wood to mimic the height of a typical slide (see included photo) If you're thinking of getting this, go for it. It paid for itself after ~2 installs, not including the many instances of zeroing in factory sights that were slightly off out of the box.

Worked as advertised for my Glock. Top slide stop can accomodate round or square slides, but could not get it to rotate. Not sure if it's the design or just the one I got.

First off, I am not a gunsmith or armorer, so I have limited experience. However, consensus on the inter-webs is that M&P sights are notoriously difficult to remove and replace. I wanted to put night sights on a couple M&P pistols (9L 2.0 and Shield Plus) and to be able to refine their alignment if needed. Bottom line: This tool worked, and did not damage either the new sights or the old ones, which were removed. Rear sight took an uncomfortable amount of force to turn wheel, and resulted in a slightly tender thumb. However, for the price, versatility, and result, I would not hesitate to buy again. Seems sturdy based on heft, but I have not, and will not, use this extensively. M&P 2.0 9L At first, I borrowed a friend's tool (not this tool). It worked for the rear sight, but would not work on the front sight of my M&P 9L 2.0 (5" barrel) because of the geometry of the slide and lack of a notch below the pushing block. Next, I used a brass punch and hammer to get the front sight out and new sight roughly in place. However, as you might expect, smashing something with a hammer lacked finesse and I was having trouble fine tuning the alignment of the new sight at home figured I would not have much luck at the range if I needed to do further adjustment. That's when I decided to give this tool a shot. Because the W Wiregear has that notch/cut-out below the pusher block, it worked perfectly to hold the long slide and nudge the front sight into alignment. M&P Shield Plus Next, I moved onto the Shield Plus. The front sight was relatively easy to remove and replace using the 90 degree side of the block. To hold the slide, there are 4 individual contact points that you screw down. I like that the tool has a series of lines etched in the surface that holds the slide. These lines allow you to make sure the slide is properly aligned (i.e. perpendicular to the pushing block), so you're applying force straight through the dovetail and not at an angle. However, I may have preferred the two-clamping-bar-style (like vise jaws) of my friend's tool in that (1) it did not require fiddling to get the slide aligned, and (2) did not create a pressure point on the thin material at ejection port. With the Shield, one of the pads/feet screwed down onto that thin section of the ejection port, when pushing the rear sight. I made it finger tight and did not try to really torque it down to reduce risk of future issues. Everything seems fine so far, but time will tell whether that area has been damaged or fatigued, and others may not be so lucky (e.g., because they use their ape strength and apply more force than I did). I reversed the pusher block to use the 45-ish degree side for the rear sight. The rear sight on the shield was DIFFICULT. The pusher block has large pushing surfaces, so there was no damage to the sights despite applying a lot of force. I found myself wishing for (1) a good surface to hold the tool while I cranked the wheel (I'd probably try putting the tool in a vise if I were doing it again), and (2) a larger wheel (or a nut that I could throw a wrench on to get more mechanical advantage). It worked, but my thumb was sore afterward from pushing so hard on the wheel's spindle.

Update -- This pusher is still a great tool, but I've found that I use the Wyoming Sight Drifter more these days. Much better than a hammer/punch, and better than a pusher in many cases. Original Post I replaced the factory sights on a Beretta 92x and I needed to wail pretty hard with a hammer to break them loose. But because I was hammering on the pusher, not directly on the sight, I never had any fear I would miss and scratch the gun. This tool held everything solid and allowed constant and strong force to be applied as I "tapped" with a punch on the side of the pusher. After some banging the sight broke loose. I had the slide wrapped with blue tape and there wasn't the slightest scratch on it. One small problem, the height adjuster didn't have enough travel to work with the Beretta slide. I had to add a 1/2 wood shim between the slide and the adjuster.

The sight press is made out of sturdy materials and has an okay fit and finish. It looks to be a quality product. However, none of that matters if it doesn’t work well. The first thing I noticed is the adjustable piece in the center cannot be turned unless you lift the top half of the press far enough up to make half turn adjustments. You should be able to adjust this piece without taking everything apart. The screws used to clamp the slide in place have a cheap stick on rubber pad to cover the steel clamp pads. After the first use, these get destroyed. In order to get enough pressure on the slide to keep it from twisting or moving forward you will squish the pads to the point of ruin. If you chose not to use the pads, the holding screws will ruin your slide finish. Due to the slip and movement in the press, it is impossible to make micro adjustments. By the time you get enough pressure on the sights to get it to move, the slop will overcompensate and spring the sight over… if that makes sense. I see some good reviews on this thing. So perhaps your mileage may vary. For me, this tool is a hard pass, especially for the money. There are much better options available.

Chinamüll!