ACDelco Gold 337-1022 Starter

The starter works fine, now that I melted two batteries including a brand new replacement battery and THIS IS WHY:1st: Compare this to your old starter you took off. I melted the negative battery terminal post on two batteries because the new starter did not have a nut on the main power feed post BEFORE the ring terminal. I couldn't figure out what would cause the problem and wasted a lot of valuable time chasing down wiring issues and it turned out that the ring terminal I was attaching to the starter was grounding out on the starter body and s terminal post because the new starter didn't have a nut on it to space out the ring terminal away from it. After much head scratching I realized that the ring terminal was contacting the starter itself and grounding out, grabbed my old starter and voila, there was a spacer nut on the terminal post. Once I corrected this issue I was able to get the battery connected without it looking like the 4th of july.So check and compare starters right out of the box before install folks. Make sure it doesn't have any loose or missing parts.

Long story made short, this starter was an improvement over my old one. The vehicle I installed it in is a '97 C1500 single cab with the 5.7 L engine and 4L60E automatic transmission. I'm not sure if all of those specs are necessary, but in case it matches up with what you have, then all the better. When the I turn the ignition the starter responds quickly and spins the flywheel at a much faster rate than I have ever heard from the old one. One notable point- it's smaller than the original... probably about 2/3 its size. This makes it MUCH easier to install, than to remove the old one, especially if, like mine, your transmission lines are directly over one of the two mounting bolts.The problem that prompted me to change my starter:I noticed that when doing cold starts (starting the truck in the morning) the ignition was fine. However, after the engine was warm it had a terrible time starting. It would turn over once, sound like it would die, and then proceed to start very slowly; all in the cycle of one turn of the ignition. This was particularly a problem when I would stop to get gas, and then go to turn it back on. I did some digging on the Internet and found that the starter was experiencing something called "heat soaking." I won't get into all of the details, but it involves not being able to start your car once it becomes warm. Rather than try to alter the current starter, I decided to bite the bullet and just replace the one I had; It's going on 20 years old. Btw, I should mention that, yes, I did check the battery and connections (grounds) as well as the alternator before embarking on this.Starter RemovalFIRST REMOVE A BATTERY CABLE; most opt for removing the negative one, but it really shouldn't matter. If you're superstitious, disconnect both. I did :).The starter is on the passenger side at the back of the engine, just in front of the transmission bell housing. It's fastened to the engine by two 9/16" bolts. On the solenoid terminals are nuts, sizes 5/16" for the small ignition switch terminal and 1/2" for the positive battery terminal. In case you are wondering, the starter is grounded to the engine. I was able to remove the starter without removing those stupid transmission lines that are just in the way of the second bolt. Yes, it took a lot of wiggling including the removal of a nearby 1/2" bolt that anchored some part of the wiring harness. Just be careful not to be yanking too hard on those transmission lines. Transmissions scare the crap out of me. You can choose to remove the battery and ignition switch terminal nuts before you remove the two 9/16" bolts; just don't let the starter dangle by these wires. In the link below the guy lets the starter dangle by the wires only to show the viewers the location of the terminals. What ended up happening when he installed the new one is the terminal ring broke off, and he had to solder it back on- not the end of the world, but obviously not the best day ever if it happens.The truck in the link is a '94 C1500[...]InstallationBeing that that the new starter was smaller than the original, I didn't have to fight so hard to get it in. In fact, it was fairly easy. In my case I was able to fasten the two 9/16" bolts, and then connect the battery and ignition cables. If you need to let the wires hang lower so that you easily fasten them, there are a couple of harness anchors (1/2" nuts) near the passenger side control arm (top-side of engine bay) that you can loosen. This should provide enough slack. Just make sure to refasten them before driving off. The last thing you want is for them to burn up because they were rubbing against the exhaust pipes. Reconnect the battery cables, and you should be good to go.More on Heat SoakingApparently the starter's location close to the exhaust pipes is the cause for this occurrence. There's just too much heat radiating from those pipes. I did look into some of the heat shield jackets and tapes, but I always was confronted with the same conundrum. Though the shielding is blocking a lot of the radiation the starter from the radiation of the pipes, it is also insulating, and thus not allowing the starter to dissipate heat very well. Perhaps, the gains in radiation blockage are worth the sacrifice of the insulation? If you know about this, please comment. Finally, the old solenoid heat shield from the original starter did not fit the new one. Maybe I'll look into insulating the exhaust pipes instead, but I've heard that this may facilitate rust on the pipes.

So I recently replaced my truck battery only to be stranded 3 days later with a truck that only gave a single "Click" when I tried to start it. I wasn't sure what was wrong but after doing some research I found that a bad starter may be the culprit (it's a 1995 Chevy K2500 with only 85000 miles on it) so I looked around and found this starter. I liked the fact this starter is a GENUINE AC/Delco and is NEW, not refurbished, with the best price I could find anywhere (including some places selling refurb's) so I pulled the trigger and ordered it.It got to my house 2 days later so I set about installing it myself. The ONLY issue with this one vs. the original is that after fighting to get the heat shield off of the old one, it didn't fit exactly on the new one. I was able to get it attached but quickly realized it kept the starter from fitting into the space so I could get bolts into it, so I had to remove the shield. Once the shield was out of play, the starter went right into place and bolted in within a few minutes.I said a quick prayer that it would work, turned the key and............ it spun super fast and the truck fired up within a couple of seconds, I was relieved!! Anyway, if you need a starter, buy this unit, it works GREAT, costs just over $100 and has NO CORE CHARGE, so no worries sending your old starter in so they can rebuild it and sell it again.

I cannot believe this unit works perfectly considering the price. Has been installed for 4 months. All thru the hot summer it keeps on spinning like a top. The only thing I had to do was add a couple washers b/c the factory starter bolts that go up into the block were too long for the new starter. Dont put the washers between the starter and the block (for you newbies). This thing weighs approx 30% less than the big acient hunk of steel that i dropped out of the Suburban. This thing is gear reduction. My previous starter would totally do nothing when it was hot and then finally just did nothing for ever. Then I put it in the ground.

Installed on 1997 chevy k1500 with a 5.7 vortec engine. Truck cranks right up like it should. Starts a lil faster than the old one as well. This starter was much smaller than the old one but it replaces it and works better. At first when installing, the main power wire was touching the solenoid wire causing the truck to want to start up on it’s own when I hooked the batteries back up. So if that happens to make sure the wires are not touching together. Once I repositioned the main power wire the truck starts right up as it should.

Fit perfectly, no shims required and my old truck has never cranked over so fast. Even in the cold morning It will crank fast and start immediately. The package showed up quickly. The only thing it doesn't have is the heat shield so be sure to keep your old one to swap over, and it was lacking the small nut on the solenoid terminal but the old one fits. All in all, this is a great starter!Was installed on a 94 K1500 5.7L

No issues with the install or fitment. One issue I had was with the original heat shield not fitting and the new unit not coming with a new one. Time will tell if this affects the longevity of the starter.

This starter was an exact match for my Tahoe 95 5.7L. It is my third starter within 5 years. The other two were remanufactured and both failed the same way: battery plugged and fully charged but solenoid fails to engage in extreme cold (-20C/-4F or below).

looked the exact same as the original, heat shield fit, starter fit, simple install, fired up first turn of the keyhalf the price of the local parts store, arrived in 3 days, gotta love the wwwi have a 95 C2500 w a 350 (5.7l)

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