Front DERAILLEUR, FD-M310, TOP-Swing Dual-Pull Band-Type 34.9MM (W/31.8 & 28.6MM Adapter) for 42/48T

What a great value! I needed to replace a Truvativ crankset on a 2007 Giant Yukon. The Truvativ has a proprietary "powerspline", which is subject to wear. So I replaced it with a SR Suntour XR-T Crankset 48/38/28t and new Vuelto BB. Good combo, and gave me the chainline right at about 48mm. The existing front derailleur would not work with this gearing, since it's mounted behind the BB, so I replaced it with this post-mount derailleur. Nice part! An incredible value at this price, and it worked perfectly with this setup. I had to go through several adjustments getting the derailleur adjusted just right vertically and horizontally, but it's got all the play I needed for a perfect match. Very happy with the outcome. I get higher speeds with the bike, this derailleur provides nice, smooth shifting once installed and adjusted properly.

This was installed on an old bicycle and works well on a front crank with 28 - 38 - 48 teeth.. I work on lots of bikes and recently installed a Shimano ALIVIO front derailleur on another bike.. Comparing the two I can't see a difference between the AULTUS and the ALIVIO though I think one cost a little less than the other..My bike tube was small so I had to use the thin shims.. They come with shims of different thicknesses. Those fit into the holding bracket and due to the way the bracket are built the shims aren't ugly..They are a little tricky to hold in place while you install the Aultus.. I found it's best to lay by bike on the side which makes it easier...If you buy one of the small cheap poly tarps and lay the bike on the tarp on the left side you can work on the bike outdoors and not fear loosing parts or tools. I sit on the tarp while I work..I have bike work stands but most often I love to work on the tarp out doors for installing parts then set the bike up for adjustments..You will need a chain break tool to install this because you MUST open the chain insert it through the cage and reconnect. Do not get a cheap tool IF you expect to open the chain more than a couple of times with it..Most don't work well for very long..The 4 dollar chain break tool at Wallyworld worked for me about 4 times before the push pin bent. A bent push pin means a damaged chain side plate is about to happen..If you have an old chain left over keep it, or parts of it, and you will have a few side plates handy..Once in a while you may mess up a side plate using even good tools, (see my othe reviews for good chain tools). If the link pin goes back in crooked and dings the hole in the side plate DO NOT use that chain with the damaged side plate. It may break going up a hill with you standing on the peddles. If that happens I HOPE you are wearing a helmet.I hope you wear a helmet at all times anyway...To install this unit find an ole wire coat hanger or a piece of wire that you can use to tie the chain into a loop. Cut it 8 to 10 inches long and bend the ends into hooks. Lay it aside to use later..Before you start working shift to the small gear up front and the smallest gear on the rear so the chain is at it's loosest..Lay the bike on it's side then drop the chain OFF the small gear and let it lay on the bike bottom bracket. Pull the chain into a loop, it will have tension from the Rear Derailleur, make sure the loop of loose chain is located at the front of the bike around the front Derailleur. It must be loose at the front Derailleur. Using shoe laces, string, or a short wire tie the chain so the loop will allow you to break the chain releasing the cage of the Derailleur. The chain pin may not allow you to pull the chain through the Deraileur so make sure the pin side of the chain is near the back side of the F Derailleur closer to the back tire.. Slid the chain out of the old Derailleur and remove the derailleur. Thread the chain through the new F Derailleur making sure it's lined up so the Drailleur is facing the right direction and not upside down..temporarly attach the derailleur to the bike so the chain to thread through the cage then gently work the chain FORWARD until the break ( tied part ) is at the bottom of the bike near the crank but not exactly under it. TO pull the chain forward I gently roll the rear wheel by hand while pulling on the chain or I remove the chain (by hand) off the rear gear and work it forward that way..This works if the bike is laying on it's side. Do not put the chain on front gears yet let it slip forward. When the open but still connected disconnected part of the chain is at the bottom of the bike chain ring HOOK one end of your wire hook into one side of the chain and use pliers to slightly bend it some more so it don't slip out..PULL a loop in the chain and hook other end. You should have a big loop of chain with the Tied part in the center of the big loose loop..Cut the shoe string and remove it or untie the chain at the break....The wire hooks should be holding the chain forming a loop that you can work with..If you pull that loop toward you it will be easy access to reconnect the chain..IF the link pin is sticking out from the bottom of the chain and hard to line up with your chain tool pin you may be able to use big pliers on the pin head and push it back into the chain staring it that way. It will pop in almost all way to the side plate.. Easy trick, smile..Once the pin is in the chain use chain tool to set the pin properly into the side plate..Carefully pus pin one tiny little bit TO far through side plate on your side of chain. Just a tiny little bit to far.. NOW use the chain tool on your side of the chain to loosen the link by pushing the pin back in just a tiny little bit. On some chains the pin sits flush with the side plate. If yours sticks out some make sure it's sticking out the same amount on both side plates. IF you have never used a chain tool before go to U tube and learn how to use it to loosen a tight chain link after the chain has been assembled..MAKE sure you can see the side plate that the pin must go back into and work it slowly in making sure the chain link pin is going STRAIGHT through the side plate hole. IF you damage a side plate you need to remove it and put another side plate on the chain. YES you can use side plates off of different brands of chains, and even old worn out chains as long as the LINK PIN HOLE is the same size around and the chain is of the same size and type. Side plates seldom if ever stretch....Most side link pin holes are the same size but some may differ. You can use a flaired side plate(some chains have curved side plates for smoother shifting) on one side and one flat side plate on the other side of the chain. It will work. Side plates seldom wear out so I use what is on hand and yes I make mistakes too..Chain side plates can be damaged quiet easily if you get in a hurry. IF you accidently push the chain pin ALL way OUT of your chain..Do not panic.. Chain Pins can be reinserted using BIG water Pump type of Pliers and maybe other pliers to push them in far enough to get them started again. If you have trouble keeping the pin lined up in the hole of the side plate use needle nose plires to hold them in place while you put force on them with the big pliers. Fingers don't work well and get mashed...Practice this on an old chain and your life will be happier in the future..For more help email me at chiefredelk at gmail dot com.....Good luck, YOU can do this you know you can.. Be Blessed, Chief

An older relative of mine had a Next Power Climber, couldn't stand how it shifted and asked me if I could tune it. Unfortunately, no matter what I did with the stock derailleurs and shifters on the Next, it wouldn't shift consistently. I swapped out the rear derailleur for an old Tourney I had laying around, put Microshift grip shifters on it and got the rear shifting working perfectly. But the 3 speed front chain wheel was still a train wreck and my relative wasn't going to spend anymore money on the bike. I did a little research and found that this Altus should work on the 2003 21 speed GT Palomar that I was restoring and that it should be an upgrade to the stock Tourney that was on the bike. So, the Next got the Tourney from the GT and my GT got this Altus. Win/win. My relatives Next now hits all 18 gears perfectly and I've got a heavier built, better shifting front derailleur on my GT. The first picture is the stock Tourney TY-32 and KMC Z chain. The second picture is the Altus and X8.99 chain. As you can see the Tourney is noticeably longer and slimmer. The Altus is thicker, and has a sturdier feel. The Altus arrives in the stock Shimano box, with spacers for 31.6 and 28.6 installations. Mine was a 28.6 and the installation and set up was easy. Will your bicycle suddenly become a fast shifting, performance machine? No. Will you notice a difference? I did. This Altus has been a noticeable upgrade from the stock Tourney. My GT has Microshift shifters and the Altus hits the front chain wheel gears more smoothly than the Tourney did. It will also shift easily the first to the third chain ring in one twist of the grip shift. Like all derailleurs, it doesn't like to be under full load when changing gears, but performs better than the Tourney under a light load. When I made the derailleur swap, I also went from the stock Z to a KMC 8.99 chain which made an unexpected improvement in the drive train and shifting on my GT as well. I never figured a chain would be a big deal, but this one is noticeably smoother shifting. If you've never changed a derailleur or adjusted one, do a search and watch one of the many videos. Park Tool has an excellent video about front and rear derailleurs. That video helped me dial in these two bikes so they ride better than when they were new. Hope this helps and ride safe.

I have no qualms with the item. The product is as advertised. My issue is with the late "guaranteed" prime delivery. This item was the second order in a week that was late. I received it 3 days after the promised delivery date. This was the second late order in a 7 day period. To Amazon's credit - for this order anyway - I was given a credit in the amount of this item as well as a 1 month extension of my Prime account but the problem was I needed this item when it was promised and ended up purchasing it locally, at a higher cost, because I needed it. This experience with late Prime "guaranteed" delivery not being met - twice in a week- has really shaken my confidence in Amazon's ability to be reliable. I appreciate the effort to make it up to me - and I understand that with the volume they deal with 'stuff' is bound to happen but I will no longer order anything time sensitive from Amazon because of this. I had been spending a fair amount of $ with them. From now on I will pay the extra shipping and deal with more reliable sellers for my more time sensitive orders.

Needed a replacement for my hybrid bike. This one worked well and shifts great.

It will work for my cousin's 2016 Retro Diamondback DH MTB. The part is not pre-adjusted. You will have to adjust the tiny screws until the bike shifts accordingly!

Easy to install, works great on 2x8 configuration mtb. Used this to replace my Shimano Tourney FD-TY710, which had lots of chain rub and trouble shifting on half the gearings. This FD works with 2 or 3 speed chainrings. The cage is much more precise than tourney, so no chain rub even when crosschaining, and can still shift to a smaller chainring under load (going uphill), where my tourney would fail to shift. Install is easy for 2x8. Remove your chain and old FD. Place new FD on the post and tighten so it can move a bit. Twist it so the FD cage is parallel to the chainrings. Raise/lower it so the clear sticker template lines up with your largest chainring's teeth (~2mm). Shift to smallest chainring and middle sprocket on cassette, connect chain. Loosen barrel adjustment knob on your handlebar shifter. Thread shift cable through, snug it, and tighten clamp. Now just set your min limit screw so the chain does not rub on any gear on the small chainring. Then switch to the largest chainring, setting max limit screw so it will shift without overshooting. Play with the min max screws a tad on each gearing, and fine tune with barrel adjustment so there is no rub.

After viewing a U-Tube Video, I realized that I had to thread my front shift cable wire (my bike's cable wire comes up from underneath) in a grove on the inside of this front derailleur and then over and down the derailleur and through through a hole in the cable anchor nut setup. I also needed to insert plastic ring because the diameter of my seat pole is only 28.6 mm. All-in-all, it is a great product for the money. If you are a newbie, you have to watch the videos in order to install it correctly.