Prime-Line B 705 3/4 In. to 1-3/8 In. Wide, 7 foot, Black Vinyl Bug Seal (Single Pack)

A couple of years ago I bought a beautiful home that was a bit of a fixer upper, not because it was run down, but because the previous owners had taken it upon themselves to add "improvements". One was cutting the bug seals away from the glass until they became useless. I never really gave it much thought, even though the house has spiders, until I saw a moth flutter in through a closed screen door.So I bought this for the upstairs. Holy smokes! I had no idea it would be so easy! If you are not sure if you should : a) buy this, b) call a handyman, or c) order a new screen, check your old stripping to see it if sits in a ridge in the screen and you can pry it out by wedging a screwdriver between the screen and the strip.If you can, skip the handyman. There is nothing simpler than this. But that's not to say foolproof. Here is my tale, which may explain some of the low reviews.I popped out the old one upstairs and put in the new one without cutting it. I simply pulled the old one out of the door, press the new one in to the slot, smoothed with my fingers until it was flat, then carefully trimmed off the excess length at the bottom. It worked like a dream!The black strip hung out more than I liked, so I figured I would order a new one for the downstairs and trim that one one notch.That was a mistake.I trimmed it one notch, which was super easy. I just cut along the line for one inch and then ripped it. Super simple. Then I installed it in the door. Oh dear. Cutting it was a mistake. You want too much and here is why.1) These screen are never straight. While there is plenty at the top and bottom, in the middle, the edge I tore to fit is snug up against the glass.2) When it is too snug against the glass and the frame, it sticks and bunches up when you open the door, causing the door to jam and the bug seal to pull right out of the track, unless you trim it away from the glass until bugs can get in, like the previous owners did...Trust me. You want that inch of flat black hanging over the glass and the frame. You will have no trouble if you leave it uncut. I've since replaced it and both work great.Oh, well. Lesson learned, for the price of a cup of coffee. Not bad considering the huge uptick in quality of life I am already experiencing.

I have 2 sliding screen doors in my house and until recently I didn't even know there was a such thing as a "bug seal" that fits on the vertical edge of a screen door that seals the gap between the door and the stationary glass door. I tried a few different ways to keep flies out prior to this knowledge that did not fair very well. When I came across this product and read the description it was a little confusing because it plainly states, "This seal helps prevent insects from crawling under your screen doors". I had to read some reviews and even asked a question before I realized this was what I desperately needed. Installation was as simple as pushing the seal into the groove of my sliding door and then, depending on the gap between the door and the glass, adjust the width by literally peeling the seal on one of the pre etched lines. Just make sure you don't cut the width too short or else bugs and flies will still be able to get through.After installing this seal it left no gap what so ever. There is no way that a bug, fly or anything else can squeeze through.I am definitely happy that I found this product, I just wish I had found it sooner.Also I almost paid more than twice of what I had to cause I almost ordered the Prime-Line Products B 716 Bug Seal.If you're only looking to put a seal between your glass door and screen door then get this, save yourself some money. Honestly I don't know what the other seal does that this doesn't. I posted some photos to help you see how and where this seal goes. Hope this helps out.

My mid-80s International Windows sliding screen door needed a new bug seal.The original seal had a ~30mm wide flap, with a 12mm wide, 6mm deep D-shaped spine insert with singular narrow slots to grip the inner edges of the door frame extrusions.According to my research, the B771 seal from Prime-Line appeared to be the closest match, and best suited to the application. However, I was informed by the manufacturer that it had been discontinued, and the only way to procure one would be to search for existing new-old-stock, but a cursory attempt clearly showed that would be in vain. Otherwise, their only suggestion was to use another similar seal, and add some pile weatherstripping to close any gaps, and secure it in place. A local screen repair shop provided me with a sample of their seals, but it was too narrow to securely fit in the door channel.I did not want to accept the suggested solution without pursuing some possible alternatives on my own, and considered the B621, B791 (also discontinued BTW), and B716. Prime Line seems to be the solitary brand/supplier of door hardware such as this, at least in terms of ready availability, so there were not many alternatives, or other brands to consider. Amazon's own search results also betray this market situation.With all three seals in hand, the B791 would clearly not be suitable. It had the width, but the shape and depth of the spine were too large.The B621 had a similar profile to the original seal, but was a bit too narrow, and the pitch of its slots would probably prove to be too large.Finally, the B716, despite having a different profile, did prove to nicely fit in the door's channel, with sufficient width to hold the seal securely, and the proper narrow pitch to mate with the edges of the door extrusion. The multi-rib design provided additional grip.If the B716 had proven to be too small, the next step would have been to glue it in place with some automotive weatherstripping adhesive, designed to mate pliable rubber seats with sheet metal, and endure extreme outdoor conditions.Thankfully did not prove to be necessary.I would have rated the B716 higher, except that it is double the cost of the other seals, and how it (as well as the rest) are packaged do the product no favors. Bundling the strips into plastic bags, or a blister pack, tied with rubber bands leaves bends and creases in the product, more acutely in the thin sections. Despite attempts to heat and straighten using a hair dryer, at least some of those malformations remain.