10 lb. 125 ft. Medium Black Permanent Blacktop Crack Filler

Many don't realize that preparing the crack is just as important as the filler materials used. For any good repair the crack MUST be free of all debris. That means CLEAN. Burning off organic matter isn't enough. Neither is sweeping as some have stated. Cracks need to be blown free of everything using compressed air. Not everyone has a compressor but you might consider an air tank in addition to buying an inexpensive compressor ($40 bucks). You may have to refill it several times but the end results are worth the cost.I own a compressor & blowing out the debris is how municipalities specify their roadwork to contractors. Crak Stiks will fit in a variety of gaps no matter how "crazed" they are. You can even pull on it for thinner gaps OR keep adding more lengths for wider cracks. It's easy to push into place & melt in place using a hand propane torch ($40 bucks for a good one). If you need more you can cut pieces to fit with a utility knife. This material stays very pliable (& shiny) for the first month, then stiffens-up. It's also imperative to not use solvents for cleaning, as these might get absorbed into the asphalt making for poor adhesion. A good bond means clean materials. I used paint scrapers, screw drivers, stiff-bristle brushes & brooms PRIOR to compressed air. Once I saw the aggregate under the asphalt THEN I knew the crack was ready to fill.While others have stated they would melt this & pour it into place, it negates having a rope-like material in the first place. Cleaning cracks out properly is the key. It takes more work prepping the crack than applying this material, which is also time-consuming & can be rough without some kneepads. Overall, I am super pleased with the quality of Crak Stiks. If your drive has a few or a lot of cracks, this material, if applied in a clean well-prepared gap, will save you a bundle in replacement costs.

Used it a month ago where the bottom of a handicap ramp met the asphalt. It was about an inch to an inch and a half gap. Started with four pieces, melted it down, then added a couple more strands, melted it, and it reached the top and dried quickly. I checked it today and it is still holding strong making it a smooth transition from the ramp to the parking lot.

This is a hot had job to do . This product essentially needs to be melted into the cracks. It does a good job of filling the cracks and it does go quite a long way, but I'm doing the other half of the drive with asphalt caulk.

Applied using a propane soldering torch. Once I developed a technique went on very easily. Really forms a strong union between the cracks and appears to set after heat applied doesn’t become sticky and pull out like other products I’ve used previously. It’s pricey but quality usually is and it works great

I have been using this product all week and, like others, I have been melting the product into cracks using a torch. I am considering melting it in a metal can first though, to avoid damaging the asphalt.If you follow the directions and simply pound this into cracks, I doubt most cracks will get full coverage, even if trying to put sand in first ( I think it would be hard to ensure all voids are full). This is probably why some people complain that the product sinks or disappears.With a large weed burner, I've been melting the product into cracks, and some cracks take a lot of product if they are deep and wide. For these bigger cracks, the prolonged heat tends to make the nearby asphalt very soft and sometimes boil. I'm not sure if this is damaging, but to be sure, I will likely start melting the product in a can then pour it.Overall, the process is time consuming and hard on the legs and back, but I feel that I am creating a solid & water-tight base for the leveling and sealing that comes next.

Easy to apply and to looks great. Filled in and sealed cracks perfectly.

This looked like such an interesting solution to driveway crack sealing, great reviews on Amazon (sigh), and seemed like maybe a far superior solution to a caulk-like or poured product. WRONG. I had to buy this expensive bucket of rubber, I had to buy a torch, and I had to buy propane. It turns out to be VERY time consuming, it goes slowly, maybe 3 inches per minute at best, the entire time it is burning, smoking like crazy, spewing carbon into the atmosphere and your lungs (seriously, I could taste it for a day or two), you burn your hands, and easily ruin your shoes and clothing (nice pair of jeans down the drain).I did this in late summer when the driveway was hot, as was recommended. Hours to fill maybe 4 big cracks going across the driveway, only used half the bucket, and 3 cans of propane. Looked great, and I thought this was a slick solution. Until winter came (mildest in years), and ALL the cracks split and opened back up again, allowing water and then ice to get in, all this money and work and pollution accomplished nothing. I actually went out in the cold and spent half an hour re-melting about 10 feet of crack. This ruined the finish (I had the whole driveway sealed after filling the cracks), but seemed to close the crack back up. Two weeks later, it had split open again.These new cracks are not hairline cracks, they are about 1/8" (2-3mm) wide.Oh, and the flame thrower torch is mostly worthless to have anyway, don't fall for their videos showing weeds being quickly devastated, it is actually slow and painstaking, can blacken your patio, and they just come right back. Better and faster to just pull them by hand, or spray.SUMMARY: This product and flame throwers look really cool, but this is NOT an effective solution, and a huge waste of time and money.