Headlight Restoration Kit, Restores to Like-New Condition

The instructions are thorough, understandable, and easy to follow. The entire sanding + sealant procedure took about four hours, total, for me; your time may be shorter because I took additional time sanding before applying the sealant/UV overcoat. The process is pretty easy: mask with painter's tape, sand, polish, and seal. I have no photos attached because I worked in a garage and my before/after photos were lousy. But, the net result was fantastic: like new, mirror finish. Overnight to cure the coating, then washed, waxed, and vacuumed the car to match the renewed headlamps. Result: 'a new car'. It looks really good. Following the suggestion of other reviewers, I used 3000-, 5000-, and 7000-grit paper (not included) for polishing beyond the 400-, 1000-, and 2000-grit papers provided in the kit. The net result was a finish that was almost clear even before applying the overcoat. I was extremely happy with the end result. Here is the 3000/5000/7000 kit I used; I highly recommend it, as well: AUSTOR 18-piece 3000/5000/7000 sanding paper (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HG5R8W?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) My hints for great results. 1. Use water often and plentifully. Keep the sandpapers and the lenses wet, all the time. 2. Grab a roll of paper towels and wipe the lenses clean, often, while sanding. It really helps with the sanding and it keeps your work area cleaner. 3. Keep a bucket nearby to toss your paper towels into and to keep your used sandpapers semi-clean, if you want to reuse them. Toss the sandpapers on top of the paper towels; they will protect them from a dirt on the floor or ground. 4. Don't be afraid to go back to lower grit sandpaper to touch up an area that still look a little rough. My idea was to do the best I could before coating rather than hoping that the coating would cover any flaws. 5. Buy and use the 3000-grit sandpaper. The 5000-7000-grit might be overkill but I was impressed with the results using them . 6. Use a light-to-moderate touch when sanding. Take your time: sand, rinse, wipe, inspect, resume, repeat. 7. Make two passes with the brown polishing liquid. Use one-quarter of the polishing liquid for the first pass on each lens, rinse, wipe, rinse, wipe with a paper towel, and inspect. If it looks good, polish a second time with the rest of the liquid and the provided white cloth. Using a paper towel first will give you a good idea of how well you did your sanding before you use up all of your polishing liquid. When I finished with the sanding and polishing, wiping on the UV protecting sealant went on so smoothly. 8. I recommend using nitrile gloves to apply the sealant. They fit better and do a great job protecting your hands from the sealant. They are pretty cheap and have a hundred other uses around the house.

I usually foul up these projects, but this worked surprisingly well. Short version - the headlight really does look "like new" after I finished! I only had one headlight to do since the other one had been replaced due to being broken. Some notes on the process: Read ALL of the instructions FIRST! Basically you will need to prep BOTH headlights before doing the very last step, because there is only one included applicator for the last step. Other than that, the instructions are straightforward. I masked off the headlight with painters tape, before doing anything else. This is important otherwise the sandpaper steps could damage the paint right next to the headlight, if you even lightly brush the paint with the sandpaper. Also, while the kit is supposed to be safe in case it accidentally gets on your paint a little bit, why risk any affect on your paint at all? The first step is a big part of the magic here. I thoroughly cleaned the headlight before starting, but the first step loosened up so much grime and surface contamination that my wiping cloth was FILTHY! It really softened up the contamination and surface deposits, which probably saves a ton of time sanding and polishing in the next step. Because I had plenty of fluid and was only doing one headlight, I did this step twice. The second time I didn't get nearly as much contamination on the rag, so doing it once per the instructions is probably fine. The second step took a while because I'm a perfectionist and took extra time making sure I evenly sanded the whole headlight all the way to the edges. I think this paid off, but it added extra time for 2 reasons. First, it took time carefully wet-sanding the edges of the headlights using small circular motions in order to avoid creating lines and gouges in the headlight. Second, since this is a wet-sanding process, the painters tape may come loose due to the water. Trust me - it is WORTH IT to stop, dry everything off, and re-apply the tape so you don't ruin the paint on your car next to the headlight! So I stopped a few times to re-apply the tape mask. The only minor critique of the kit itself was that the step 2 polishing paste comes in a single packet that you cut to open. So you need to do both headlights at once otherwise you'll end up wasting half of the polishing paste and not have any to do the other headlight. Also, the headlights on my car are pretty large and I think I would have had to really skimp on the paste in order to polish both headlights with the paste. Since I was doing only one headlight I could be liberal with the use of the paste, but even using "just enough" I think I might have not had enough for the second headlight. Still, my headlights are unusually large and it still might have been barely enough, so the kit will still work for both headlights. I'd be much more comfortable however if Sylvania had simply included 2 slightly smaller step 2 polishing paste packets instead of one larger one that has to be used for 2 headlights at once. After step 2 polish, the whole headlight looked kind of like frosted shower glass, except that even though I took my time to do the sanding and polishing right, I could still see sanding swirls and some uneven remaining oxidation. I figured I had nothing to lose though, so I proceeded to the third step in spite of not being 100% happy with how I had done the preparation. Remember, I usually foul these things up somehow, so... I was AMAZED at how well it looks after the third step! This is the second magic part of this kit. The step 3 solution went on very easily with the included applicator. A tip - follow the instructions EXACTLY, including resisting the temptation to go back and "touch up" sections that don't look quite right after the application. I had to dab/wipe on a bit near a corner where I didn't smoothly apply the final coating on the first swipe, and if I look VERY closely I can see that the coating is thicker and not very even in the places where I went back a second time. Bottom line, pretty much soak the applicator with the fluid, make one pass over every part of the headlight, and LEAVE IT ALONE without even thinking about making second coats! After the application, it was immediately obvious that it came out looking great. When standing just 2-3 feet away, the headlight looks just as clear as the brand new one on the other side, and there are no visible scratches or hazing at all. Even the area where some of the original oxidation damage was uneven after sanding came out looking crystal clear. If I put my face 6 inches from the headlight and shine a light on it just right, I can see the coating in the areas where I had to go back to cover places on some curved edges that I didn't get with the smooth application swipes, but those are the only areas where I can even tell anything has been done at all, and my face has to be right up close to the headlight. From a few feet away, it looks brand new. Time will tell whether or not the finish stands up to the sun and heat, but the initial results are amazing. Follow the instructions, take the time to protect the paint during steps 1 and 2, do steps 1 and 2 on both headlights before step 3 (and remember that step 2 packet must be split for both headlights) and resist the temptation to apply second coats of step 3. Do that, and you'll have great results too. Highly recommended, and good luck with your headlight restoration!

Follow the instructions carefully. Use a timer & plenty of water. Be patient and keep everything wet. Apply the coating generously as stated. Process takes about an hour for two headlamps, start to finish. My 14 year old headlamps look like new. A bargain for the price. I paid about $20 us for the kit. New headlamps were $180 us each and required removal of the front bumper. Very impressed with ease of process and results.

In general, this product provided good results, but there were a few issues with using the kit that I wish I had been aware of before using it to produce better results. The instructions provided with the kit are clear and detailed, which is important because there are multiple steps involved in using the kit and all have to be done in the correct order and with the necessary thoroughness to produce good results. I was able to apply tape to the paint surrounding the headlights and go through all of the necessary steps to finish the process in about two hours. All of the materials needed to complete the process are included in the kit, except for two basic tools I needed to use the kit on my car that is parked outside my apartment complex in a parking lot, with no access to a garage or a water supply. I needed to add to the kit materials several 32-ounce water spray bottles and a roll of paper towels. With those two items, and the items provided with the kit, I was well-equipped to complete the steps described in the instructions. The main issue I had with using the kit and producing the desired results arose from applying the UV protection treatment that is the last step in the process. The instructions state that the user must apply the UV protection treatment liquid on an included paper cloth in even, continuous strokes across the headlight cover, overlapping the previous stroke slightly. This did not work in practice to produce a clear headlight cover on one of the two headlights on my car. In reality, overlapping the previous stroke of applying the UV protection liquid acted to disrupt the liquid already applied on one of the two headlights and created some mild haze in the final appearance of some portions of the headlight cover. Once that haze appears there is no way to correct the problem - as going over the problem areas again will only make the issue worse (per the instructions, which warn the user not to touch the headlight covers after applying the UV protection liquid). The other issue I had with the product is the complexity and time involved in using it. There are other kits that have fewer steps and take less time. For example, one of the liquids supplied in this kit has to be applied and then washed off four times during the completion of all of the steps in this process for both headlights. However, this kit has a good reputation for producing quality results that last longer than some other similar products. So, I am still pleased that I used this product for my first experience in headlight restoration, as it did a good job eliminating the heavy, opaque discoloration caused by long-term exposure to the sun and the headlights look much better than they did before using the product. One headlight looks new, and the other looks clear except for a light haze where the UV protection liquid seems to have dried slightly cloudy in some areas. I am guessing that the light output from the headlight with the slight haze in some areas will not be affected significantly from the haze. So, with the warning that this kit takes time and effort to use correctly, and with the additional warning that you should try not to overlap your application strokes of the UV protection liquid (contrary to the instructions) and try not to re-touch the surface after applying each stroke of that liquid, I can recommend the kit.* *One other issue I have with the product is the alleged warranty. I tried to register the product on the Sylvania website, so I could enroll in the warranty. However, the website requires that I provide my telephone number to register the product. I am not willing to provide my telephone number, due to the unknown risks that it will be sold to others or stolen and used by criminals, so enrolling in the warranty is not possible for me.

Aside from completely stripping and repainting an entire car, I've not done any project to a car that made such a visual difference in recent past. I was debating going without food just to buy new headlight for my C6 Corvette. I did the research and found this kit to be the overall favorite for best results. The claims are absolutely true. Even if your headlights are a "basket case", like mine were, it's just a matter of time and effort to make your headlights look almost new. Previously, these had been sanded and sprayed with clear lacquer. That did not work, so My headlights were to a point where they didn't work with the lights on. night driving was dangerous as I couldn't see well enough to react. So, I had to sand these down using my own sandpaper until they were at a point where I could follow the instructions. I spent about 3 hours just sanding them to get the lacquer off. After following the instructions carefully, the transformation was amazing. They look worst just before they begin to look great! I had a bit of the final clear solution left, so I gave them a second coat, which works fabulously. They honestly look and function like new lenses right up to about 18 inches away. From there, you can see very fine checking of the plastic and minute streaking from my untrained application. This is the best solution for dangerously clouded and ugly headlight lenses. Your friends and family will be stunned and amazed.

I just finished three lights on a rav4, which were a little bit of a pain because of their complicated shapes, One was a rear which is two separate pieces. I did only one rear because I had just replaced the other one due to cracks in both sections. Side by side comparison- the refinished ones look as good or better then the new one although there are some slight defects in the finish. Clarity is superb. I did a bit more sanding than was probably required but one was in pretty bad shape. It already looked like it had been sanded with 400 grit before I started but it hadn't. Don't skimp on sanding, be careful to be thorough and not miss spots. Better to over sand as you are not really removing much material at those grits. Apply sealer in the shade and you'll get a more forgiiving application window. I could pick my work apart up close but from even just a couple feet back it really looks great. I could do it over I think and clean up a couple imperfections , but truthfully it looks so good now I won't mess with it for as long as this coat lasts. I needed to do something like this or replace my lights so I saved about $4oo dollars with this kit.Kit works really well and I consider it a bargain.

I own a seventeen-year-old Toyota Yaris hatchback (152,000+ miles), which has been parked outside in the sun and elements all of its life. I'd already had the headlights resurfaced (by the Toyota team) many years ago—but my headlights were, by this point in time, at the stage of not passing annual inspection. Replacing both headlight units at the dealership (including labor) would have cost in excess of $700, so I figured—why not try this, and see what happens! The results are really terrific. As "like new" as you're going to get with a seventeen-year-old car which is parked outside. Here would be my observations having just done this project this morning (without access to a hose, mind you!). The instructions are worth reading a couple of times before you take-on the project. It's, actually, a lot easier than the very detailed instructions might imply. Just go step by step, doing each step to both headlights before you move on to the next step, and you'll be fine. 1) Bring lots of water, and a spray bottle (as recommended in the instructions). I filled up some clean milk-cartons I'd saved for the project, and just refilled the spray bottle from those as needed. Super easy. I used about three milk-cartons of water (1.5 gallons). You'll need lots of water-spray as you sand with the provided grades of sandpaper. I would recommend starting (with the first grade of sandpaper) with light to medium pressure, then move to more consistent medium pressure. The second and third grades of sandpaper really are very smooth and fine, and you can finish-off the third grade of sandpaper with a really light pressure. Be patient, and go for a truly smooth surface. I did the recommended circular motions both clockwise, and counter-clockwise, to ensure the smoothest possible finish. Worked like a charm. 2) Regarding the activator spray (with which you will start and, toward the end, use again): I used about 2/3rds of the spray on the first stage (both headlights), dissolving the initial oxidation and grime. I feared I'd not have enough with just 1/3rd by the end, but I had plenty. I'd bring a soft sponge, too, just to ensure that you get the lenses fully clean between steps. I found having extra soft, clean rags helpful with drying as well. 3) Painter's tape definitely protects your paint around the headlight, so take the time to mask-out your light, and protect your paint. The only thing I'd suggest, is to spray-clean your paint-surface after your remove the painter's tape following use of the polishing compound. Some of the polishing compound gets under the tape, so just give that a rinse before you dry the lenses and apply the final UV gloss-coating. Keeps things neat and clean around the lenses. 4) As for the gloss-coating: you really can be very generous applying it to the provided blue-cloth. I was a tiny bit stingy on the first headlight, fearing I might not have enough product for the second headlight. Don't worry ... you'll have plenty of UV product left over when you're done. I'd really soak the entire blue-rag well, and apply generously. I can see a *very* tiny difference between the first headlight I did (where I was more stingy applying the UV gloss-coating) and the second (where I was more generous). It's so slight you'd never see it. Just rest assured that you'll have plenty of UV gloss by the end of the project, as it spreads evenly, smoothly, and well—so be generous in applying it. The best part? If I get any haze again, this was probably the easiest headlight-repair imaginable. I'll just do it again! And I saved about $700 to boot. You just need to set aside the time to do each step well and carefully. It took me perhaps an hour and a half from start to finish (and I was moving slowly and carefully), with some time thereafter cleaning up and just standing around to ensure no falling autumn leaves fell on the UV gloss while it was still wet. Just went to check on the headlights, and they're completely dry to the touch, and very smooth and glossy. This is a terrific product! Easy to use, great instructions, and a really fine result. I look forward to seeing the longevity of the product.

My car is 16 years old always been outside and this product did very little to clear headlight cover.

This is the third time these headlights have been restored. Wait, let me rephrase that. This is the third ATTEMPT to restore these headlights. The first time the dealer cleaned them up a bit so it would pass the bi annual safety inspection. It lasted almost one year. The second time I did it myself with another brand of restoration kit. It got them clear enough to pass another safety inspection but I wasn't very pleased with the result. This time I did some more research and found this Sylvania Headlight Restoration Kit. It was highly rated and Boy! were they right! As you can tell from the before, during and after photos I've included this kit really works. Except for a couple of pretty deep stone... um dents I'll call them because they're not really chips, the headlights are as good as new. I very definitely recommend this kit to anyone that wants to have headlights that shine like new without the expense of replacing them. Now, that being said, I have some advice. Follow the instructions! They are very clear and take you through the whole process step by step. Do not try to hurry through. If it says it should take about five minutes of sanding for this step then set a timer and sand for five minutes. When it says keep it wet, keep. it. wet. I used a garden hose with the nozzle set to a heavy mist and sprayed it every 10-15 seconds. This rinses away the slurry and cleans the sandpaper so that it keeps cutting. If you don't keep it wet the sandpaper will clog up and you will just be wasting your time and energy rubbing your headlight. When you get to the last step, the UV blocker, don't skimp on it. There is lots in the kit to do two large headlights. Don't rub it on in a circular pattern. Use straight strokes from one edge to the other. Don't rub it on back and forth. Start from one side and wipe to the far side, pick the cloth up and then make your next pass slightly overlapping the first. Continue until you have completely covered the lens and then STOP! DO NOT go back over it and DO NOT TOUCH it. Let it dry four to six hours. Now enjoy the fruits of your labour. Your brand new-looking headlights for nowhere near the price of new headlights.

Excellent product for DIY. It works as it claims, need to be very careful when applying clear coat, do not over apply.

Excellent product, worked better than I thought. Highly recommend

Amazing results for 10 years old car. No more blinding other drivers. Some elbow grease required for upmost results

Muy buenos resultados.