Leviton IPV15-1LZ 1800-Watt Incandescent, 600-Watt LED/CFL Vacancy Sensor (Manual ON/Auto Off), Single Pole or 3-Way

I installed this switch for a light that is rarely turned on, but when it is turned on it is often forgotten about and left on. I needed a manual-on switch that would turn the light off when it is no longer needed and this was the perfect solution.I read all of the negative reviews before I bought this switch. Perhaps some of the reviewers received defective units, but most of the bad reviews leave out any details that would lead me to that conclusion. I suspect that most of the negative reviews stem from a misunderstanding about the function of the switch (manual-on), or possibly from incorrect wiring. Wiring in a three-way circuit can be very confusing. Also, not all light switches will have a neutral wire in the switch box.

Leviton is one of the best brands very reliable I replaced the originals in .y home that were about 20 years old with no problem just wanted to upgrade. These work as advertise. It was easy to install. the lights will stay off u till you turn them on then the motion detector works but if not in the room they turn off per your set time. then they will need to be manually turned back on. fits what I wanted

This is the vacancy switch you need to power that 120-volt 1300-Watt heater you have in your bathroom ceiling fan. So far, it has worked great for me, and it looks pretty sharp, too.Vacancy switch simply means you want the heater (or fan or light) to turn on manually (by pressing the button), but want it to turn off automatically after the room is vacant for a preset amount of time. Occupancy switch "mode" turns both on and off automatically when the device senses occupancy.

This was intented for the garage, where my children leave the light on ALL THE TIME.The one I ordered is a MANUAL on switch, you have to hit the switch to turn the lights ON.After they are on, the timer starts with motion detect.It works a treat.Installation was NOT easy and took about two hours of trial and error. Discovering the hot wire (See vendors youtube install video). It helped identify the single HOTWIRE going in. From there, it was just a bunch of trial and error.

This switch doesn't use a White/Neutral connection to the switch so some current is always running through your bulb to power the switch's pilot when the switch is off. Some Fluorescents and LED bulbs will dimly shine when the switch is off. Also some LED bulbs interact with the switch sensor circuit such that the auto-off function will not function.If you do not have to have a switch that dims or need a switch without a neutral connection or that dims--and most electrical boxes have a White/Neutral wire, then I recommend instead the IPV15 instead of the IPVD6. The IPV150 doesn't run current through your bulb when "off" and works well with a wider array of fluorescent and LED bulbs. Also, the remote switches for 3-way and 4-way, etc. operation are nicer.It seemed that the switches I bought (IPVD6s an IPV15s) worked okay if room didn't get much direct or indirect sunlight. Too much sunlight and the sensor wouldn't turn off the circuit. I got replacement units that worked. However, I have found that the IPVd6s will not auto-shut-off if the circuit load is a Kobi dimmable LED (Kobi Electric LED 11-watt (65 watt) R30 Warm White Light Bulb, Dimmable). Leviton supplied some additional switches and Leviton and I tested both sets of switches. The new units worked in my installations except when I used certain Kobi LED bulbs. After trying both IPV15 and IPVD6 switches, I replaced all my IPV15 with the IPVD6 except for one, where I needed the dimmer function.Note that the timer adjustment in incremental on both IPVD6s and IPV15s -- if you position the pointer between position 1 and 2, it behaves as if pointing at 2.If you have a problem with the auto-off function, try some diff models of bulb before deciding the unit is faulty.