DROKDC 5V Power Converter, 5pcs Mini Voltage Buck Regulator DC 4.5-20V 12V 9V Step Down to 5V Reducer Transformer Board 3A 10W Adjustable Fixed Volt Output Step-Down Power Supply Stabilize

This aux board is an ideal replacement for a linear regulator in certain battery applications. It is not particularly accurate but works well enough if used right. Inexperienced hobbyists probably should use something else. Some of the reviews here are cringe-worthy.I am using it to drop from 13+ volts from a 2W solar panel, to a little over 7 V to keep a lead-acid battery charged. The switcher efficiency means that a 12V panel puts more energy in the battery. Lead acid is much safer and better at lower temps for our outside, year-round industrial application. Just adjust the max voltage output for the right trickle charge voltage for the battery. Be sure to put a Schottky on the output to keep the panel from draining the battery at night (the little regulator will pull power in reverse).The output has transients, as all switchers do, but that doesn't bother the battery, which acts like a huge cap. With the 7 volts, I also energize latching solenoid coils, which pull about 700 mA for 30 msec. The little switcher handles this fine. Next, I use an LDO regulator, with the recommended caps and protection diodes, to regulate to 5 VDC for running the microcomputer and various auxiliary chips like RTC, EEPROM, etc. The LDO keeps the switcher transients off the chips and has better regulation.So far, the little boards have been reliable, and we are now using them as standard to replace linear regs. We test each board for about 24 hours, but have only found 1 that was a little wonky.

This regulator module works excellent. I follow the instructions to set a fixed voltage of +5v for my project and it works fine.

Pretty much like most of the other brands like Polou etc. same size and function. Unless you are pretty skilled you should probably attempt to set the output voltage with the pot and skip trying to bridge the little jumpers for setting a fixed output as they are extremely small. Also cutting the solder on the two selectors on the front is difficult. I used a soldering iron and just drug the tip across them to remove the solder. If you want to use the fixed output values it might be easier to just pull the little pot off the board. If you use the enable pin it will shut the board down at about 1.3 volts. I like them.

This is a great little switcher, and this is coming from a EE with 40+ years of product development experience, including switching PS design for Burr-Brown (now TI), so I do know something about this‼!Granted, the load regulation is not “awesome”, but is still decent for 95% of applications. No load 5V output is 4.99V, and at 1A it is 4.80V. In case you are worrying about dipping below 4.75V (TTL/USB…), use adjustable mode, and set the output to 5.20V, and you’ll be fine. If you want perfect, go and spend $30-$100 apiece for an industrial switcher… which will be much larger in size. This one is <$2 per board, so, let’s all be sensible when passing judgment.I do like the decent efficiency, important if running on batteries. Running 12V input, and 5V output, it barely gets warm at 1A (chip at ~40C with spot IR). I am running a Raspberry Pi on it, with a RAK Gateway, along with an external Cellular Hotspot. No issues what so ever. Some of the equipment presents 1.5A-2A fast peak loads, and this switcher handles it just fine.Dropout voltage is about 0.8V, meaning you need minimum of 5.8V on the input to get 5V on the output. Below this the supply tracks the input, modulated by the load line imperfection.I temperature tested it in the oven, at 60C ambient to simulate the inside of the outdoor case in the summer Sun, and it was OK, but you may want to mount it on a metal slab with conductive adhesive tape to be safe, as the junction approaches 125C. Interestingly, the output voltage di d not move more than few mV at 60C.It is interesting to note that this switcher has no issues feeding another chained switcher: I also needed 3.8V, but my system could not run this switcher of the 12V, for system reasons that are beyond the scope here. I found that chaining them works fine, with no need for additional caps in between. This was a surprise to me. I tried to chain 4 of them, just for fun, and it worked OK too.I read some of the comments: If you can’t cut a trace to disable the default mode, you should not be playing with this. This is clearly spelled out in the Amazon listing. To me, it took an Exacto-knife, and 10 seconds. Granted, the module size is tiny (which is the whole idea), so you may need some magnification, depending on your age. I used a bino-microscope, but could have done without if I had to.Remember – this is a <$2 module. As a value it is absolutely awesome. The design is average in my estimation, but consistent with low price, and will work for you. As my vote, I purchased another 10 for my lab. That should tell you what you need to know.

Utilisé pour alimenter une carte DMX sans-fil en 5 volts a partir d'une source 12 volts continue.

Pour des projets DIY type arduino, le format est génial et il n'a pas l'air de chauffer.Juste une remarque, je me lance dans l'élétronique et je ne comprends pas bien le fonctionnement de la carte. Explication en anglais très bien faite mais j'ai un doute sur la méthodologie pour fixer le voltage:Il faut souder les plots sur le voltage désiré et couper celui de la patte "ADJ" ??Sinon merci encore, super produit.

Product can’t handle 20 volts!!! 19.5 v cooks them, actual max voltage is 16 volts.