🔧 Upgrade Your Microwave Game!
This Primeswift Microwave Door Interlock Switch set includes three essential components designed to replace various OEM parts, ensuring compatibility with multiple microwave models. Made from durable materials, these switches effectively resolve common issues such as improper heating and shutdowns, while also providing reliable performance that meets or exceeds OEM standards. With 24/7 customer support, you can trust that your microwave will be back in action in no time!
J**N
Fixed Fuse blowing when door opened whilst Microwave running.
Bought all 3 fuses because they were cheap and wasn't certain which one, if any were causing the 20 amp fuse to blow anytime the door was opened when the mic was running. Mic is GE over the stove JVM3160RF5SS. YouTube has a ton of videos on how to get at the fuse, and the door switches. (It's very easy but you need a magnetic screwdriver for one of the screws, at least to reinstall the screw.) Anyway, I tested all 3 switches with a meter and all 3 seemed to work. The middle door switch is NC (Normally Closed) the other 2 are NO or Normally Opened. The middle NC switch worked, but I noted if I just barely pulled on the closed door, it would open the switch. That seemed wrong as it was VERY touchy and I strongly suspected (and hoped) that was the problem. Installed the one switch in the pack that was normally closed (FC-62) and wallah, good as new. This is the middle switch and I believe they call it the monitor switch. If I had to do it again, I would just buy this one switch, I think I saw 2 of them for like $6 on Amazon.The important point here is while I checked the switch for continuity with my multi-meter, it appeared to work just fine, both in and out of the door. When I checked it by just pulling on the door a tad, it would open the switch, and that just seemed wrong, way too touchy. Also if you are here, you probably already know that the prices on these switches are crazy, from a few dollars to as much as 40 some bucks. They are all the same, so don't waste your money on the expensive ones. Also note that the little plastic tab that hold the switch in the holder is flimsy on my Mic, but fortunately, it is meaningless and not needed at all, so while mine broke off, it actually made it easier to pull the switch, without removing the entire switch holder. The plastic terminal covers on the wires actually hold the switch in the switch holder, the little plastic tab just makes it impossible to pull out the switch with out lifting the tab, but does nothing to hold the switch firmly in the holder.One last thing. The first you tube video I watched on fixing this problem indicated it was the thermal fuse causing this problem. He said check that thermal fuse for continuity, I did, there was no continuity so I spent like $30 bucks on a OE thermal fuse, and waited 2 months for delivery. That guy was wrong, and there's not supposed to be continuity in that fuse unless it gets over a certain temp like 170 degrees. He never mentioned the in line 20 amp fuse which was actually what was blowing, a 50 cent fuse. Also, saw at least one guy on YouTube say replace the fuse with a ceramic microwave fuse. Nope, if the door monitor switch is the problem it will blow any fuse you put in, and I suspect if you put a giant 30 amp fuse, it will blow the fuse on you house breaker. Should be no need for a slow blow ceramic fuse, and really, you need a multi-meter to check if the fuse is good, whilst the clear glass fuses you can see instantly that the fuse blew. The OE fuse was a clear, 20 amp fuse on my mic.Hope this helps someone. This seems to be a common problem with GE microwave ovens.2 Plus Months later:Just wanted to add that it's been a little over 2 months, and hundreds of door openings with mic running, and today the damned fuse blew again. I replaced the fuse, and will be ordering 2 more of the normally closed (FC-62) switches. They are easy to replace and cheap but still a pain. If it continues to happen then something obviously is causing the switch to fail, or the switches are garbage. I could determine nothing wrong with the door, looseness anywhere and so on so at this point it's an unknown, but I'm leaning towards garbage switches.
M**Q
Fixed Our Whirlpool Microwave at a Reasonable Price
Out microwave stopped working properly with a message to close door after it was closed. Bought this kit and replaced all three switches at the same time. Factory switches fell apart when I removed them, so I was glad I replace all at once. Works like a champ now!
D**H
Easy Fix
These were the perfect replacement for my GE Microwave. It took only about*5 minutes to replace it and put the cover back on it and fire it up.(note* - as long as you have the security style torx drill bit tip)
R**R
Lifesaver
We bought our new home in February of 2020 and it came with its original appliances, one being a Microwave oven, we love it as it's big and spacious but the only issue is the door switches would mess up and we couldn't use the Microwave oven. My husband decided to replace them altogether and looked at other sites that were 51 bucks, he found this one for 11 and it works like a dream. Saved us buying a new Microwave oven as this one is high quality except for that one issue. Highly recommend.
T**N
Good replacement kit
Don't ask me why our Frigidaire microwave has 3 different model switches for door sensors, but they do. There are decent replacements, the 3 prong switch fit great, the other 2 the connections were looser than I would have liked, but the locking sockets made sure everything stayed in place (hence the -1 star).Do yourself a favor and take a picture of how everything is wired to all 3 existing switches before disconnecting anything, makes reassembly so much easier.
Trustpilot
2 weeks ago
3 weeks ago