Siraya TechBlu 3D Print Resin Tough Resin 3D Printing with High Toughness Resolution Strong and Precise Resin 3D Printer 405nm UV-Curing Rapid Resin for LCD DLP 8K 3D Printer (Clear V2, 500g)

I had purchased this for a specific need that wanted to be rigid. While it's strong enough to not snap, it's much more bendable than I had expected. So it definitely is tough, but for something that requires constant movement I would think. In addition, while it's being marketed as clear, it's more translucent than clear. Not sure if that's a room temperature issue or an issue with the resin.If you're not looking for a completely clear item and don't mind a little flexibility, then this would be a good resin to use. For future projects, as long as my needs have that in mind, I have no issues purchasing this again.

first time using nylon resin, i have to say very much enjoyed the product. one thing i did find out, long cure times make the coloring fade.

Blu is the strongest 3d resin I've ever tried. coupled with the price this resin is unbeatable. if you haven't heard of blu or siraya tech try them out; their resins are great and have different color options. they also test their resins on different machines and give you print settings and cure times for each of their products via website.

Very tough, virtually no odor, very accurate. Needs to be at 25°C to print well, as it's fairly thick. Slightly translucent very dark blue/purple. Can be dyed opaque black with RIT Proline dye. (Don't waste your time trying to use the new consumer dye - it's garbage. The old stuff works if you have any though.)Best print settings with an Anycubic Photon Mono X seem to be 3 burn-in layers @ 14 sec. / 2.6 sec exposure time 50um layers.You need to be certain that the bottom of your build plate is flat and parallel to the LCD. I had to surface mine on a milling machine with a 6" flycutter to get it flat. Had to take off almost 0.010". If it's not dead flat you will probably have print failures.If you don't have a milling machine (why not?) then you should be able to get it flat with various grades of wet/dry sandpaper and a [minimum] 1/4" thick glass plate. Start with 80g and go up to about 320 max. in 4 steps. Start with 320 to see how far off it is first. If it's as far off as mine was, you will be there quite a while. Or mill it.Best way to get perfect prints (on any machine that uses the same clamping setup as the Mono X) - loosen the build plate screws , home the machine (do NOT put a piece of paper on the LCD - put your vat on the machine - empty, of course). Once the machine is homed, lightly press it against the LCD and tighten all the screws. Raise the build plate, loosen the clamp knob, and insert a piece of 0.003-0.005" thick paper between the build plate upper support and the carriage effectively raising the build plate by ~0.005". This also seems to damp some of the vibrations inherent in the machine resulting in better print detail. This only works on machines that clamp the plate to the carriage the way the Mono X (or regular Photon Mono) does it. BE CAREFUL - if you don't know what I'm talking about, don't try this - you may end up breaking your LCD.If you have difficulty getting prints off the base, try sticking it in a deepfreeze for a few hours. The print should just slide off. Put something under it in the deepfreeze to catch drips. Please note that any food in the freezer that isn't totally sealed will end up smelling/tasting like resin. Don't assume that something is sealed just because it's in a box. Ask me how I know...

Only reason it did not get 5 stars was because one of the bottles was leaking when I got it. Other than that this stuff is great! I will buy again!

I was mixing to get something like ABS but stiffer. Blu Nylon Like is exactly what I needed.

Even properly heated, I'm having difficulty getting smooth, accurate prints. The durability is undeniable though - standard resin shatters if you look at it funny. You can make real, functional parts with this stuff... it just seems to require a lot of post-processing.

I got a bottle of Blu (clear) v2 because of a recommendation on Zack Freedman's youtube channel. He used Blu to build high impact parts for a nerf blaster and found it was the only resin that didn't break in stress testing. Having just tested my first parts off the plate with it, I can confirm that it is ridiculously tough. Most resins, when printed in a cube or brick, will either be rubber-like or shatter into ultra-brittle dust when hit with a hammer.Siraya Blu is different. It's glassy, tough, and isotropic like molded PA66 or PC. I printed Tableflip's Cones of Calibration with it, and tried to smash them with a hammer, and they took several hard blows on concrete. I am going to try printing a pneumatic manifold and burst testing it just to find the limit of this resin.The downside is a loss of X/Y precision due to some light bleed and a rather difficult washing process. I find there's about 0.2mm of additional scum on top of walls that isn't quite cured, but doesn't quite wash off. This might be a problem with my old FEP film, I'll have to compare to a fresh one eventually. For now, a little extra scrubbing is acceptable.

I've tried everything to get this resin to be useable, firstly it prints ok no issues at all with it but then that is where the issues start. I've tried nearly all methods of getting this resin to clean correctly. Brand new 99% IPA, dunking, scrubbing, water baths and back into IPA but it still remains with a layer of uncured resin.Curing attempts then become the next hurdle, I've had parts 0.7mm thick under 405nm UV for nearly 50 minutes and they are still not cured! I've lost all motivation and will to work with this resin again and I'd certainly not be for the price and work I've lost because of such.I've asked across numerous forums and there seems to be this trend of not being able to get it to clean.

The media could not be loaded.  Nice colour, but sadly not so good at print quality unless you finish surfaces yourself on the support side. Then you can have nice pieces/parts.I have used many of resins from Siraya blu/clear and Elegoo. This resin loses print quality on the support side a lot. I've tried heating the vat/tank. The resin seems to cling to the support side and cures. The cheaper Elegoo red outperforms this resin but it is more brittle. The detail is much higher on Elegoo resin. So basically I would say this resin is just ok by itself. However the resin can be finished by hand to give you exceptional pieces. Nice colour when polished into glass effect.You need to finish the product yourself for pristine finish. See my YouTube on how to do this. (Jeffrey Henderson)

Bought this as it was advertised as clear. Tried it out with the standard exposure tests. ALL OF THEM resulted in a very yellow result. Would not recommend if you need clear transparency...

I have two photon mono x and the capacity of the vat is 500ml each, I used a clear resin so cant see where its at properly however you can see the max line, I should be able to fill both vats to the max line but I got just over half way in terms of each vat, there is probably around 750ml in these bottles.

I heard great things about this resin but the long exposure time and tendency to lose detail on the support side of the print is really frustrating. Definitely not the easiest resin to use,