BWUSA Bicycle Crank Puller – Crank Removal Tool for Mountain and Road Bikes with Square Taper Bottom Bracket Spindles

I've been happy with this. I've used it 10 or so times and it feels great each time. It feels sturdy and I don't foresee anything ever happening to it unless I make a mistake and cross-thread it.

I needed a tool to remove the crank arms from my 18 year old mountain bike in order to replace the bottom bracket. This tool worked perfectly. I liked that I was able to torque on the extraction bolt using my 15mm pedal wrench. I had both crank arms off in about 2 minutes. Seems to be good quality and will probably last forwever, especially since this is not a task I need to do very often. I consider what I paid for this tool to be money well spent.

I had to replace a crank on my daughters bike that was bought used from an individual.Unfortunately, the person somehow obtained two right pedals and then amazingly cross-threaded a right pedal onto the left crank. :)After watching YouTube videos on how to remove a crank without this tool I decided to get this tool anyway.I did try for an hour or so to wiggle the crank loose with no luck.When I used this tool I had the old crank off and new one on in minutes.Worked perfectly!Now, to find a place to store this so I can find it if I ever need it again. LOL

Tool work as is designed to do. Easily removed the crank from my son's bicycle. However the tool cost almost as much as half of the cost of the new crank. It's a shame you have to buy tool to change a crank on a bicycle. What started as a $35 repair turned into a $50 repair..

I work on my bike a lot and this a definite must have

Removing the crankset from a 30 year old Trek. I removed the internal lock nuts and tried a small gear puller I had on hand first, but it did not offer sufficient bite, so I ordered this crank puller.Item is Taiwanese-made and let me do the job in about a minute per side. I used a 15mm open-end wrench, but a long-handled adjustable wrench will work so long as the jaws and adjusting screw on the wrench are not worn. The seat has fine threads, and getting it set completely bottomed out in the crank is important, as I had to apply considerable (for a bike) torque to free the cranks.The threads on my cranks were clean and in good mechanical shape, as the factory dust covers were still in place and intact. If the inner crank threads are dirty, clean them well; if they are visibly damaged, I suggest your local bike shop or machine shop to "chase" the threads. Otherwise: (1) remove the dust covers; (2) carefully thread the seat portion in inside until it bottoms out; (3) thread the working portion in until hand-tight; (4) get a solid bite on the flat sides of the outer bolt head with your wrench; (5) grab the crank for leverage; (6) turn the bolt portion of this tool clockwise with steady, slow pressure.The most important aspect of setup is to make certain to not cross-thread the seat portion and that it is fully seated before applying what amounts to outward pressure.For reinstallation the lock bolts inside the crank tighten the crank as you reinstall and tighten them.

It worked perfectly. Don’t hesitate to buy this one if you’re removing a pedal crank. My bike had a square hole and this tool worked perfectly well for that setup.

We used this to pull the crank arm on a mountain bike and it did the job very well. Know the type of crank you have on the bike to ensure that the tool will work with the type you have. Apply some lubricant and hand screw the bracket that goes into the crank arm first to ensure proper threading before using any force to try to remove the arm. Do not go too tight. The bolt that presses against the spin dial seems slightly soft and shaves off some materials as you push the arm out. I guess that is by design to protect the crank mount arm itself. Happy with the product quality overall.