4000W Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter DC 48V to AC 110V 120V for Home RV with Dual AC Outlets 1 USB-C(60W) 3 USB-QC3.0 Fast Car Charger Adapter, LCD Display and Remote Control

Great working unit.

This is being updated weeks after getting it.I am hooking this into a 24V, 100Ah LFP battery. I added an Anderson 175A quick connector to the supplied cable as this is meant for a portable setup. Probably should have done the 120A version. I also added an anti-spark circuit. While some people manually touch resisters and wires together to pre-charge the caps, my normal mode is to have a separate circuit designed for lower power that I hook up first to charge the caps with and then hook up the main circuit. Really, if you are going to be using this in a portable fashion, you will be thanking yourself for doing this down the road or at least not cursing because you can't get it to work with destroyed and heavily oxidized connectors and blown caps due to all of the sparking and abrupt high "short circuit" inrush currents and such.So far I have only found a few minor cons:1. As is as this is used as an "independently derived system", I used the terminal block to wire neutral to ground. I found hot and neutral are mislabeled on the front, which the socket tester quickly spotted, so I switched to the right conductor. At least the black wire is hot, so they got that much right. Now it passes the wiring test. As you could fry something if you don't go through the paces / have an unsafe setup or say with your camper / RV, end up having your RV reject the power, I thought this was important to point out.2. The supplied DC battery wiring does get a little warm while pulling 2,400W through the inverter. They say that 4 AWG wire in the manual is good enough, but I have to wonder if 2 AWG would be a better idea.3. The 110V/120V button on the RCU seems to cause an error message. Really, not sure why this button is there. Anything can take up to 125V, which this will never exceed and lower voltages mean easier to brown out over extension cables. It looks like there is a special procedure to get it to switch, but why would you?4. The deal with the wired remote and wireless is a little confusion. Just use one or another, not both. It looks like for the wireless remote, you need a special battery, but the information for this is in the manual. It looks like the wireless remote works in parallel to the main on/off switch, meaning the switch needs to be off while the wired remote needs the unit to be turned on and then it can be used to activate / inactivate the inverter portion of the unit. For the wireless remote, if you do have the main power switch on, you will just hear the unit make a clicking sound as you hit the on and off buttons on the remote, but it won't affect anything because the main switch is already causing the inverter to be powered on.For pros of this unit:1. It seems I can load up both of the supplied 120V outlets to sum up greater than 1,500W. This is actually how I got up to 2,400W in my testing with the limit there I didn't want to push the battery harder. I have since wired up the terminal block to a 10 AWG extension cable going to a TT-30 plug.2. It has a nice and useful display. Really, this makes the unit nicer than most because everything is right there on one screen.3. Overall, it does seem like a nice unit that will do the job I have for it.To go back over wiring to sum it all up in one place:1. Wired a jumper wire between ground and neutral in order to have a ground-neutral bond in the system. Unless you are wiring to a panel that already has a ground-neutral bond, this is needed for safety. This is done with fork connectors.2. Wired a ground wire from the ground terminal on the inverter to a wall plug with only the ground wire hooked up. This allows me to easily hook the inverter to house ground. As this is an independently derived electrical system, with #1, I now have a complete electrical setup like you would at your main panel with a ground - neutral bond and an earth-ground. It is just this is all wired up at the terminal block instead of inside of a panel. The other benefit is now if you are using for backup or supplemental power in your home, everything is at the same reference voltage.3. A 10 AWG cable hooked up to the terminal block. 10 AWG can carry the full power of this 3,000W inverter. For now, this goes to a TT-30 plug that is plugged into a fan-out adapter cable so I can plug multiple devices straight into this 30A capable cable. TT-30 is handy as you can find this on trailers and at camping sites as well as generators. So one plug type and I have versatility to use my equipment as I see fit, inverter, inverter generator, extension cords, and camp site plugs.

I love this inverter. The only thing that concerns me is the size. I thought it was smaller in size. I have limited space in my camper but I’m sure it will work well. The quality seems good and the value for the money is imperative. Easy to install and love the shutoff feature.

Love the continuous read out , meets all expectations. Also like the warning alarm on overcharging. Would recommend to others .

I have a few applications where a 1500W inverter is about right for my needs. After much careful consideration I purchased this unit.It actually comes with (mostly!) a few extra items: 4 40A fuses, 2 cables, a wrench, remote, display/remote with freakishly LONG cable and a printed manual! (who does that anymore!) Granted the included manual comically does NOT have a page with an image of this EXACT model, my model however it was in an included table.Hooking it up to a fully charged 100Ah LFP was simple, BUT with a surprise - attaching the 2nd wire gave an alarming "spark" connecting it! LOL!! No worries but be warned that some equipment WILL do that when they've been off for some time.Once the On/Off was switched on I could then switch the inverter on & off via the wired remote and change from 110V or 120V output.Since the LFP I was hooked to is "smart" with current & voltage monitoring, the inverter being simply attached and on or off without a load did not present enough of a load on the battery to register. (more later when I get something to check the output)I do find that the manual has some rather (err) 'silly' calculations. For example, most (if not all) 'coffee makers' that I've ever seen (for consumer use) are strictly RESISTIVE devices and present a resistive load. BOTH in the water heating and optional pot heating pad.So a 1000W coffee maker would use: 1000*1.1=1100W (the rated %90 efficiency of the inverter ADDS TO the wattage used from the battery!) = 1100/12 = 91.66A*(0.16 for 10min or 0.25 for 15min) = 22.91Ah used to make coffee. 100Ah - ~23Ah = ~77Ah battery capacity remaining. :)Sometimes it is frustrating to get consumer devices to agree. :)The setup:1x 'Smart' 100Ah LFP1x 1500/3000W Inverter (the device purchased here)1x DC Current clamp meter2x ~500W Shop lights. (for resistive loads)1 light on = Batt: 37.2A, 487W, Clamp 40.2A, Inverter 430W = Efficiency: ~%882 lights on = Batt: 79.1A, 1012.5W, Clamp 85.4A, Inverter 890W = Efficiency: ~%88Personally having metering is almost a requirement for me. Granted none of the devices are NIST calibrated however 'ball park gauges' are better than nothing in my book.Of note the fan did not come on until I added the 2nd load and while not 'whisper quiet' it was reasonably loud as I'd expect.Frankly IDK if I'll have much use for the Wireless remote however the Wired remote panel provides the same information as displayed on the unit itself and should be handy to check status. The wired remotes display auto-shuts off after a while.Currently happy with the purchase and I'm looking at getting 1-2 more of same or 2K-3K units.

Lasted only a month and it came up with an error code and would not work. It is supposed to be heavy duty.

Exterior quality is superb, very nice feel and so with the looks. The only thing is that when u go over 45C temp. Is too loud for me. My application was window AC hook up to my off grid solar sys. And i put this about 6ft away frm my bed. So every time the cooling fan kicks in, its loud. But if u put this away where u could isolate the noise then i highly recommend this PSW inverter. Plus the customer service guyz are the best, hands down.

I Buy this for back up in case no power available. This one is big but can run my full size refrigerator for 24 hr. The coffe cup is to compare and see tha size of the Inverter. The other picture shows numbers at idle, no load.

Installed the unit today - on first power up one cooling fan started clicking and stopped after unit finished its start up and went into a no load state - plugged in different loads up to 950 watts and after each load was shut off the display remained stuck on 33 watts, if I reset the power switch the display returned to 0 watts but returned to 33 watts after trying another load less than 500 watts. I am using a new LifePO4 200 amp/hr Battery that is fully charged and tests 100% - the unit works but the display is not trustworthy and there is a slight buzzing from time to time plus one cooling fan is very noisy - I am preparing to send the unit back tomorrow, I can only see more problems in the near future with this unit. Very disappointing, I was looking forward to using this inverter in my off grid Amateur Radio Shack. I may try a replacement unit and see if it gets better, I will update my review if I try again.UPDATE: This company has outstanding customer service, they accepted my defective unit back and refunded me quickly. They did not pressure me in to trying again, I decided that this inverter was worth a second chance. I received a new unit and installed it on the weekend, I am using the recommended 200amp/hr battery [new LifePO4] with 24" of 4g wire with a 150A circuit breaker inline. The inverter powered up normally and after the brief startup 'beep' stopped the unit was operating quietly with a clean and stable output. I tested several loads from 10w - 950watts [largest load I had] the inverter worked perfectly including the cooling fans when larger loads where used.This model comes with a wired remote panel and a wireless remote good up to 1km [from specs] because this inverter has a wireless remote be aware that even when the unit is off it is drawing standby power waiting for a signal from the remote [similar to your TV set] the standby power is not too bad at 0.6a, when I am not using the inverter for long periods of time I shut off the circuit breaker to save battery life. In summer I will leave it on because my solar panels make up the power in the day light hours.Notes; the power display has a wattage indicator, it is not accurate with loads less than 100watts. I was told this is normal. Not sure why, my 1200watt portable power station's watt meter is accurate from 1watt+. Anyway it ended up being a good buy with the replacement unit and is priced fairly.Overall, this is a good pure sine wave inverter, the power output is clean & stable. Also, the unit looks good 😀 I have only been using this unit for a few days, I will update my review in the future if necessary.Thanks for having a look, all the best MPS 😀

It is very powerful when combine with my LifePo4 battery, great for camping, RVing and power outage. The remote is very useful too.

The unit arrived quickly unfortunately it was defective which is a manufacturing issue not the seller. Returning the item was very fast and easy thank you. Will definitely buy from them again!

I am writing a first impression of this inverter as I have not, as yet, even installed it: I am impressed with the User Manual first of all. It is very descriptive (even though it doesn't mention the 1500W model). I noticed that It says 2 AC outlets in the description. However, it has a third that accepts the three-round-prong type of plug. I guess that's for export to countries that use round-prong type.I am mpressed with the style of the inverter - it looks very well made.However, as I mentioned that is first impression ... I plan to update this review when I install it and when I've used it for awhile. The price was reasonable and it came with both wireless, and wired remote. Cables (not sure heavy enough), and even a wrench for installation. Impressive! I hope it performs as well as it looks.I must say that this is the first time I ever got a manual that was so detailed. There were a few omissions but they are sending me an updated version which includes the 1500 model. Customer service is great. I asked about the third outlet that has the Thai socket. They informed me that that socket is rated at 10A. Good to know. (not sure what I would use it for as all my lights will be 12V) I will be keeping an eye on this company for sure. On the face of it, a great product!UPDATE:I have now used the inverter and all works well. I am disappointed that it draws a small bit of power (7.68 W) when idle. That's if you leave the main switch on and use the remote for the outlet.I have to admit I'm a bit confused with the formulas they use to calculate battery and inverter needs.I use a CPAP machine that uses 2.5 amp at 110v. According to the manual it only needs a 247.5 W inverter. But when I do the other formulas they tell me that I can only run the CPAP for 3.9 hours on a 100 Ah battery. When I do the formula on battery size, sure enough it says I need a 203 Ah battery to run for 8 hours. Funny thing is ... I am now using that same CPAP in my other RV and it only uses 17 amps for the whole night (8 hours) and that includes using RV lights, etc. That is without any charging system attached. SOLUTION:I can only deduce that the 2.5 amps of the CPAP machine is for when it is using the humidifier - which I don't. The CPAP without the humidifier must only be drawing slightly over 1 amp. That would then make sense. WHEW!

Use it to run my well pump or the microwave in our cabin.