10PCS USB-C PD Trigger Board Module PD/QC Decoy Board Fast Charge USB Type-c to 12v High Speed Charger Power Delivery Boost Module

An awesome product, buy a single USB-C charger to charge all your old devices.

Great module, solved my problem.

These guys are great at adding USB-C functionality to anything needing common power voltages. Soldering the tiny resistor to select the desired voltage can be a bit tricky, but anyone with a small tip or good skills should be able to pull it off without much issue.

The voltages of these boards ARE switchable as advertised, unlike what another reviewer concluded, but I almost reached the same conclusion and threw in the towel.In order to switch the voltage, you must bridge from the outside pin to the specific resistor indicated on the board. However, it's not immediately apparent that the 12v resistor is already bridged on these boards using a very tiny zero-ohm resistor which is difficult to spot, and bridging any other resistor without removing that initial bridge will cause the board to drop down to 9v/5v.You MUST remove the tiny resistor from the 12v leg before bridging the other resistor. Took me quite a bit of poking around with a multimeter before realizing that resistor was there. Not the seller's fault, as the ad DOES indicate that it's pre-set to 12v. However, the advertising photos show a solder bridge, not a tiny SMD 0ohm resister, so it's really easy to miss!Could've saved some time if this was a little more clear from the beginning.Not yet sure how well the board lives up to its claims regarding its current-carrying-capacity. I'll update if I run into any shortcomings in that arena, but after figuring out the voltage selection, I just wanted to share that info for anybody else who is considering this purchase, or for anybody who has already purchased them and had issues figuring out how to change the voltage, such as the other reviewer who called them a "fake product".The product is NOT fake. Documentation is simply frustratingly sparse, as the photos don't indicate the presence of that near-invisible (at least to my 40-year-old eyeballs) resistor, which was probably added to the manufacturing process later on.Hopefully this helps save others from wasting a bunch of time scratching their heads.

No matter how you use them you get 5 or 9 volts based on your charger. Tested on my fast charge battery, a wall outlet, a fast charge brick, my computer, and even using my 65W laptop charger for power

Everything's going USB-C these days and power supplies capable of supplying multiple voltages are becoming ubiquitous. Boards like these can be great for adapting existing electronics that run at the fairly common 5V, 9V, 20V and the somewhat less common 15V supplies. It should be borne in mind that many devices are regulated internally too and there may be some flexibility (try at your own risk though). These can mean that you may need only one or two supplies for a multitude of devices (if not they're not used concurrently), helping reduce cable mess.All my supplied devices worked correctly at the configured voltage and modifying the link on one device showed it capable of supplying the other voltages correctly. I'm pleased with these items.

I didn't open all 10 but after 3 I gave up and returned these hunks of junk. The resistors were in wrong places and 1 even shorted out my PSU completely.

These are little miniature USB-C PD capable trigger boards that request a particular voltage from an upstream charger. Like most of these type, they'll cheerfully dump out 5V if that's all the upstream charger provides - not ideal for some applications, so be aware. If the charger is USB-C PD capable, it will negotiate a higher voltage based on which of the four resistors on the right is bridged to the adjacent solder pad.As a few other reviewers helpfully stated, the 12V resistor is bridged from the factory, which means these should be 12V right out of the box. Unfortunately, that's not the case - on some of my modules, the little resistor wasn't mounted correctly, resulting in the unit seemingly falling back to 9V. Confusing.To use these, you'll need to knock off the little 12V resistor, then solder bridge to one of the other pins. I really wish this was implemented better as just about anything else - a set of DIP switches, a normal solder bridge? Soldering right to the side of an SMD resistor, and needing to remove an existing one you can barely even see isn't ideal at all; presumably, they did this to avoid needing to cut a trace or do any manual prep on these boards, so I understand the goal, but it's just really not a very user friendly experience to set these up.

Hacen lo que dicen, estoy satisfecho con el producto