Bathroom Sink Pop Up Drain with Overflow, Small Cap, Polished Chrome

Good quality and fit. Looks great. Easy to install. No leaks with included gaskets and washers.

Perfect product for the sink I have. Use a none hardening thread compound to prevent leaks.

I replaced my old leaky bathroom faucet with a Delta faucet and although the faucet is great the drain that came with it was pretty cheap- all plastic. This was a huge upgrade from that one, made from metal and a lot heavier. These drains do get a lot of wear and tear and the last thing you want is a hole worn in your drain pipe so spending a few extra bucks now can save you a lot of hassle in the future. I really like the pop-up drain- it holds water very well and was pretty simple to install (and I'm not much of a plumber). It also looks great and feels really solid when you open and close it. The rubber gasket that came with it leaked a tiny bit at first so I just took it out and used plumbers putty instead and it worked flawlessly. If you're installing it yourself pick up a tube of Rectorseal and you'll be in good shape.

I have installed many sink drains in my 70 years. This one posed a problem for me. First attempt I substituted plumbers putty for the upper seal. It leaked from the lower seal. So it removed it and used the upper seal supplied with the drain, thinking the putty may have compressed too much for the lower seal to properly seat. Second attempt resulted in another leak from somewhere in the lower seal area. I noticed the lower seal is shaped like a cupped ring. Not sure about that, so I’m going to reuse the upper seal rubber wedge shaped lower seal from the old drain and also put Teflon tape on the drain threads. If that works, I won’t be making an update to this review. If another leak occurs, I’m scrapping this unit and buying something else and will write an update. UPDATE: The old wedge seal would not fit. The final solution was to pull off the lower seal and since it is cupped, fill that cup with plumbers putty and reinstall. I tightened the big nut carefully as I allowed the putty to extrude out. Once the nut was tightened to my satisfaction, I used my finger to remove the extruded putty and smooth it around the edge of the seal. I completed the reinstall with the tail pipe and p-trap and tested for leaks. Success.

This drain is great. I'm seeing a number reviews that mention leaks, but by in my experience this is 100% installation technique. The technique I use to seal the drain with putty or dope is below. Every drain, not just this one, is likely to leak from the threads without strategic use of putty or dope, because as one reviewer mentioned, a rubber ring can not fill and seal the valleys of threads. Another mentioned using putty and dope above and below the seal, which of course didn't work, so they demanded the tailpiece be made so the threads stop where the seal is positioned - which is impossible because every sink is different in thickness so the seal will land in a different position with every sink. So, here's what you do: First, I recommend losing the top seal that goes between the drain flange and the sink. This isn't a leakage thing - they work ok to seal out water - but they usually make the drain sit up a bit in the sink creating a "ledge" the last bit of water can't get over. You'll replace that seal with putty later. Next, drop the drain into the sink, with no putty or anything. Grab a sharpie, go under the sink, and mark the the threads right where they emerge from the sink, and again about 1/4" down from there. THIS IS WHERE THE SEAL WILL LAND WHEN YOU INSTALL THE DRAIN! Now take the drain out, and use plumber's putty or dope - personally I prefer putty - to FILL THE VALLEYS OF THE THREADS BETWEEN THOSE MARKS. So you're filling up the threads where the rubber seal will eventually land! Make sense? Finally, press a rope of putty to the bottom of the drain flange (some folks use ilicone here - again it's a personal preference thing) and drop it back into the sink, press it down so your now-sealed threads are showing under the sink, and put the rubber seal and washer on. I usually dope the threads just under the rubber seal so the threads of the nut are sealed too. Some people use putty for this but i prefer dope. Thread the nut on, tighten it up, clean the excess putty around the drain flange in the sink, and you should be 100% leak-free! If installed properly this is a great drain, nice finish, good positive seal but not too hard to push to open or close. Highly recommended.

If you read through all of the reviews, you will get some good advice. I have installed 4 of these, and I am an expert at something that I will not do again for 10 years! The instructions are not much help. The top of the drain is where you may get a leak due to the overflow drain holes; this is due to the installation and not the product. Taking from all of the great advice I learned 1) use putty around the drain, it works every time. 2) Putty between the top and where the gasket (4 in the drawing) meets the bottom of the sink. 3) Use tape on the threads, always. 4) Use tape where the tailpipe meets the drain body. 5) Make sure the overflow drain holes are aligned with the overflow drain in the sink body. I had one sink without an overflow, so I put tape around the overflow drain holes so they did not cause me problems later, just something I did you may not want to. Don't overtighten, you may crack the sink. Fill with water and look for leaks, then release the water and look for leaks. Before you start see if the air conditioner drain ties into the tailpipe and if so be sure you are up to that part of the project. The pop-up drain will unscrew if you want to replace it or clean out the drain throat in the future. Finally, I saw one picture where the finish was damaged, I suspect they did not clean it with non-abrasive cleaning supplies. Gentle is better. Anyway great product, and we are happy with the result

I have purchased seven of these, and every one has the same issue. They leak from under the sink where the rubber/silicone seal is above the nut. Every... single... one. Now, you can get around this by using a silicone sealant on top of the seal before tightening the nut. Make sure you let it cure before using. If you don't, it could still leak. The price is right, much better than the big box stores that charge double. I have installed seven and if you make sure you do the silicone trick you shouldn't have any issues.

منتج مناسب وجيد

Doesn't feel robust but thin metal

Really excellent and well-made faucet drains, bought two for a double-sink vanity 3 years ago. After three years, the pop-up unit in one of them seized up in the closed position While I'm not sure what caused it - we're mildly hard well water, but vinegar, and citric acid in an ultrasonic cleaner and it still wouldn't budge even with standard tools. Sure are clean tho. Perhaps something was dropped on it, and the piston deformed. So I'm not down-voting it. I replaced the pop-up "piston" and hit the right size the first time: the technical specifications are: Basin Pop Up Bolt Size: M8; Bottom Screw Thread: M16x1.5; Closed Total Height: 43mm; Pop Up Height : 52mm. You can get them from Amazon, two for $9.99 CDN. [Not sure I can include a link direct to the repair product]

Bon produit et bon prix

Good tolerance, installation easy and no leaks