The Stop Shop 50 Ft. Roll of 3/16" Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing

you know those old "it's so easy a caveman could do it" commercials? i feel like this deserves one of them. i've never made my own brake lines before. heck, up until a week ago i didn't know that (a) you could make your own brake lines or (b) that brake lines are capable of rusting. i've been wrenching on cars for more years than the internet has been a thing and have never come across any brake lines that had rusted through either from the inside out or the outside in. however, i have never worked on a good-ole-american truck before, either. according to the internet (which is a thing now), brake lines commonly rust on older trucks (and I am talking trucks made in the 2000s, not the 1950s) because of a curious decision to use uncoated mild steel in combination with zinc-plated fasteners. and everyone appears to accept this occurrence as normal. in this particular case, it turned out to be so normal that the fronts and rears decided to give way at the same time, which made for a fun couple of seconds of trying to figure out why the brake pedal was on the floor followed by a moment of panic, followed by the realization that i am in a truck surrounded by priuses (priusii?) any of which could be used as a sort of stopping block, followed by another half a second deciding which color prius i should use to help stop me (it's the chartreuse one, of course!)*. but anyways, i am getting carried away; the actual review follows:holy hell are these easy to work with! i've worked with copper HVAC lines, steel tubing, etc. i've used all sorts of benders, with varying degrees of success. the combination of a relatively thick wall on these lines and the softness of the metal means that you really can bend these by hand, into pretty tight-radius turns that you need to match the shape of the original lines (if you so choose) without issue. you really can't kink these, even on your first try.get a cheap double-flaring tool, something to wrap the lines in/with (to prevent them from getting hit by debris) and, if you don't want to do this again anytime soon, some stainless fasteners. also, chances are that if your lines are rusty, the rest of your brakes are in pretty rough shape, so invest now in rear brake cylinders (they can be had for $10 a pop and save you the trouble of having to get new bleeders after you inevitably strip the existing ones trying to remove them -- or worse yet, having to retap the holes if you have to drill them out). for the fronts, just get one size up bleeders and the necessary tap and retap the hole after drilling out existing. don't forget to bleed your brakes when you're done.then go for a ride and wait for something else that should never break (ha!) fall off your truck.*don't worry, no priuses were actually harmed by the loss of brakes, lost 'em in the driveway and was able to stop before i got out to the street.

I live in the "rust belt" and needed to replace rusty, worn-out rear brake lines on my 1996 Chevy Blazer. Note, I'm a "backyard mechanic", although I grew up with a dad that was in the auto business all his life and I know a lot about rebuilding cars from experience and learning from others. Last year, I used the infamous Polyarmor steel lines they carry in major auto parts stores to replace the fuel lines on it and noticed that they already look like they are starting to rust. There's no way I was using that crap again, so I decided to give this product a try. Amongst this, polyarmor is expensive and I probably would have spent three times as much running new lines to the back. So I wanted something not only better for rust, but a bit cheaper, especially on a 20+ year old vehicle that I don't want to go overboard dumping money into.So far, I loved working with this vs. steel lines. It is VERY easy to bend! You can bend these lines by hand and, unless you are making a very sharp turn, you really don't need a bending tool (although I have one). I'm surprised at how easy it is, and they don't kink easily, either (even if I made a very sharp turn, these seem nearly impossible to kink). I think you could kink a steel line a lot easier than this product. The easy of pending makes them astronomically easier to route underneath your vehicle and in tight spots in the engine compartment.These lines are also 10x easier to flare. They're very easy to make double/bubble flares on vs. hard steel lines. Other people here have mentioned it's easy to "over flare" these, and I would agree with that somewhat. It takes a bit of practice (especially with hand flaring tools) and you don't want to use too much line through flaring tool or this could happen. Others here have also mentioned an inconsistency wall size in these. I have noticed it a little during flaring that sometimes a bubble flare would be a bit uneven, but it is hardly a complaint from me. This vs. the ease of use over steel lines can be overseen for me. And they have not leaked whatsoever at my wheel cylinders nor my tee-joint in the rear of the vehicle so they do flare well.I did a test drive today and the truck brakes perfectly. No leaks, no issues. The real test for me will come within time, if these things corrode over winter or hold up. I will update my review in the future. I am cheering this product on, though. If these hold up well over the winter, then I am going to use them for all future projects where I need hard lines whether for steering, brakes, or fuel lines. I just find it significantly easier to work with vs. steel lines.

Excellent quality tubing which replaces the original, rusted lines. This copper nickel brake line tubing is actually an improvement over the original steel brake lines as it will not rust in the traditional sense and it is VERY easy to bend to shape and to form proper inverted double flares. It comes carefully packaged, with both ends sealed with caps and a small sack of dessicant to absorb any moisture inside the plastic wrap. Looks really neat, professional and permanent under the car in place of the rusted out lines and the psi rating is very close to that of steel tubing.

I bought this, along with an ISO flaring tool, to replace a couple of leaking brake lines on my 2006 Dodge Durango. This soft but strong and corrosion-resistant tubing was very easy to bend without a special-purpose bending tool and also easy to flare with the inexpensive ISO flaring tool that I purchased on Amazon at the same time. I have no doubt that this tubing will long outlast the rest of the vehicle. This is the first time I've ever used nicop, and I highly recommend it to anyone who's struggled to bend and flare hard steel line.

Very easy to bend and flare. Standard or Bubble flare no problems at all with this line!Will definitely purchase this again when I run out.Thicker walled copper nickle tubing not the thin cheap stuff that only seems to split when you try to flare it!

The copper nickel brake line is very easy to bend and flare. I used it specifically for this purpose (along with its increased resistance to corrosion) to get into tight areas and snake it along the frame bending with my hand as I went. It worked very very well it looks great. If you kink the line or get leaks at your flares it is human error not the product. Replaced another line with steel because it was cheaper and it already has a nice layer of surface rust while the copper nickel does not just a coat of oxidation that wipes off easily. Stainless steel is always superior but is more difficult to bend/flare and is also way more expensive. Recommend using it, and amazon has the cheapest price I could personally find (Canada that is) assuming shipping is free.

Worked fine to repair Honda's rotten brake lines. Bent and flared very easily, no leaks. I'll keep an eye on the lines to see if corrosion is real with cupro-nickel and post back if anything negative is observed. 1000 miles now no problem.About 20k miles later, the lines are merely greenish but no rot is noticeable.

East to straighten, form into desired shape, and to flare the ends as required (using OEMTOOLS 24364 in Line Flaring Tool Kit).

Brake line looks awesome and is very easy to bend an flare, that being said it appears it is TOO soft. After loosening an retightening a joint it now leaks like a screen door on a submarine. Went from having no leaks bench testing all my joints to pumping 1/2 a litre of fluid onto my floor. Checked my flares and they are no grooved and out of round. Would not recomend.

What else can I say, received the product I ordered in a timely manner. Product was exactly what I needed and the quality is top notch. Will shop at The Stop Shop in the future for automotive needs.