CCTREE Creality 3D Printer Ender 3,Ender 3 pro Glass Bed Glass Plate for Creality Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro Ender 5 GEEETECH A10 3D Printer 235x235x4mm

This is my second bed from this same company. First one ordered August 30, 2018. The one from August 2018 did not have an adhesive backing. Just the dimpled print surface, and the back was smooth glass. Got a second Ender 3 and ordered this glass bed again in May 2019, because it's awesome. Unfortunately, the bed ordered in May 2019 included a layer of adhesive on the back. Very hard to remove, and would effectively permanently adhere this glass bed to the build plate of the Ender 3. The good news is it comes with a wax paper over the adhesive. I just chose not to remove the wax paper, and so far everything has been fine. I've done a few prints (Ender 3 upgrades, you know the drill) with PLA at 60° bed temp, and have had no problems. 60° C is about 140°F, and wax paper for cooking can go up to 420°F. I know this isn't the exact same paper as the rolls of cooking wax paper, but even at 100°C bed temp, that's only 212°F. I figure we're good.So don't worry about the adhesive backing the new plates come with. Just don't remove the wax paper, and you can still use the binder clips to keep the bed on your buildplate, and still be able to remove it easily.I've read the reviews about people having trouble after wiping the bed with Iso. I haven't tried wiping the surface with 99.9% Isopropyl, but will report back when I test it. I haven't had a problem using Iso on my build plate from August 2018, and hope to have the same results with this new plate. The surface of this new plate does feel a little different from the first one, but I can't confirm that. This new printer is at my house, and my other Ender 3 is at the office. I may bring this one in to compare one of these days.Still EXCELLENT print results for both beds, both the firs tone I bought and this new one. The PLA adheres very well with 60° bed temp, and after the bed cools, you can literally blow the print off the bed by breathing on it. It really is amazing. My favorite build surface ever. Just wish I could find a plate this size for the TAZ 6's we have at the office.Five stars for bed performance. Seller just needs to update the item description to mention the adhesive coating on the back, and how the wax paper doesn't absolutely need to be removed.

New review: after my initial review I was immediately contacted by a Cctree rep who offered to replace my item at no charge, today I received the replacement and started a print before work and came home to this beauty! No leveling issues, no scraping or warping I just got a bad glass the first time, the new glass is gorgeous and works excellentPrevious: Overall it seems nice and the adhesion is good but I think I recieved a slightly warped product, no matter how much I level and relevel, this bed scrapes in the center and is too high in the corners. I am returning the product as a defect, if I get a better quality product I will edit my review.

Once you get the hang of printing on this glass, you won't want to use anything else.It's a little warped but not enough to cause severe problems (for me).Temperature tests shows it heats pretty evenly across the glass. (much of that can be affected by the placement of the heater under the original buildplate.It comes with a sticky back-surface. I recommend that you do NOT peel that off.Research a bit and find a way to clip it to the bed instead. (cleaning is MUCH easier that way, and you can replace it if/when needed without much hassle).It did take me a while to learn a few things, but advice from various places on the internet has had me printing without glue, hairspray, or tape for about a month now.While the bed is completely cool, wipe it once with the highest proof isopropyl alcohol (but least expensive) you can find. It only takes about a teaspoon and evaps quickly.I keep 2 generic spray bottles near the printer.. (not too near though.. this stuff is flammable!). One bottle has 50/50 distilled water and isopropyl alcohol, and then other is just the straight isopropyl alcohol.I also keep a bottle of dishwashing liquid (I use 'Lemi Shine') handy, and that is also cut with isopropyl alchohol (comes that way, I didn't mix it).After every single print, I first use half of a paper towel (dry) to wipe any small particles off the bed. Then I spray 1-2 sprays of straight iso onto the glass, then quickly wipe the entire bed down with the other half of the paper towel.After that, if there is any plastic buildup or stubborn print marks on the glass, I spray about 1-2 sprays of the dishwashing liquid on the glass and use my finger to move it around in circles (being careful not to push it too close to the very edge(s) as it might drip off) until I can 'feel' it as smooth. I let that sit for about 30 seconds, then use several dry paper towels to get that off, wiping in the same direction. Then I spray the 50/50 and immediately wipe that off.If there is anything left, I repeat as needed. If needed, I have a plastic dish scrubbie (don't use the metal ones and be very gentel) during the dishwashing soap phase to scrub in circles if needed and then follow the same procedure with the 50/50 from there. Once the bed is clean, then give it a final wipe down with the straight iso.Most of the time, none of that is needed. I just do the straight iso right before heating the bed up for a new print (again, only while the bed is cool), and then again right after.When using the straight iso, the paper towel will sort of 'grip' the glass... not so that it sticks or anything, but more like the difference in running your finger over a dish when its dry (smooth) vs when it's wet (kind of 'squeaks' or has a bit more 'grip').If you use the scrubbie, you might need to re-level your bed if you pushed a little. (probably best to do that once in a while anyway)You will go through LOTS of paper towels and lots of isopropyl alchohol (IPA), but the results are worth it.NOTES:You can still use gluestick (purple elmers gluestick works good) and/or tape when needed for certain things, but once you figure it out, you probably won't need/want to except in rare circumstances. If you do, follow the soaping procedure above and you'll be ready to get back to normal printing in almost no time. (wiping up soapy glue takes a few more paper towels, but the extra minute is worth it to have a clean bed)Do NOT use any product with acetate or acetone on glass with a 'special surface' or 'texture' (like this one) as it will degrade alot faster.Also, be aware that certain filament types can 'stick' to the bed so bad that they may break off part of the glass during the removal process. Be sure to do your research before using new filament types.conclusion:Compared to other surfaces I have printed one, this one is a dream (once you have your printer 'dialed in' and you figure out any particular quirks your setup might have.).I fully expect this product to degrade over time, but as long as it lasts a decent amount of time compared to the average reported last-time of other more expensive glass beds, I will purchase this exact item again when the time comes.

Works as advertised. When heated, the surface becomes pourous enough for the molten filament to bite into and the printing model sticks to it very well, even when bumped into by accident. When it fully cools, the model pops right off with very little effort.Caution is advised when installing since this is taller than the magnetic mat; I forgotten to reset my z-offset settings and z-stop switch after manually leveling the bed and badly scratched it beyond repair on my first print when using it. Despite the deep gouge lines, it still works great!