OX GUARD ANTI OXIDANT COMPOUND OX100 1OZ

As is obvious, I headed this review with an omnibus question, and I shall begin by sketching a brief response thereby. To begin with, I don't know what it is, nor what it sold and (presumably) used for. Apparently (to me) it is employed to facilitate conductivity, ameliorate corrosion, provide anti-seize properties, etc. in electrical arrangements, especially those employing aluminum, which is, of course, an excellent conductor, and very often used in electrical applications, such as, for instance, wiring. As the name promises, apparently it may be well considered as an anti-oxidant compound (in the form of a light grease) especially often or typically used with aluminum. I only assume this to be so, but I indeed believe it is so. But yet, even if this is entirely, or at least substantially, true, it is irrelevant to me. I have no such tasks or applications. Still, I do use it in just the way I have outlined for its intended (I suppose) application, but with the more relevant (to me) application of typical electronic and/or electrical connections and fixings, which, of course, typically employ copper or brass. In other words, I take it to be, as its name implies, and its title claims, to be an anti-oxidant compound used as such an item typically would be in electrical work, but especially involving aluminum. I use it in just this way, but with copper and/or brass (and sometimes involving steel or iron, as in, say, automotive work, wherein electrical fittings might be, for instance, bolted to steel panels or iron castings). Now, the crucial point to be understood here is that, in my understanding, this material is not simply an anti-oxidant in that sense typical to dielectric grease, which is as an oxygen displacing substance with no conductive properties per se. Rather, and indeed, it has an additional property, and therefor use, of being a conductivity facilitator since, and indeed because, it is in itself an admixture of small conductive balls (I suppose) and grease, so it is in fact itself conductive in and of itself, and, more to the point, promotes and enables superior conductivity in its use, as well as displacing oxygen-containing air, which thereby precludes corrosion, or shall we say oxidation, which as its name tells requires oxygen to enable corrosion, or indeed rust particularly. So then, used as a replacement for ordinary dielectric grease in, say, plug-and-socket applications, but used in the same way - that is, packing the socket with dielectric grease before inserting the plug - it not only excludes all air, precluding corrosion, but promotes conductivity in that connected plug-socket interface. That difference is, of course, valuable, and that is how and why I use it. There is, however, a caveat in this use, which is that, being conductive, it can also lead to mis-connected or indeed shorted connections in, say, the close confines of a fuse box. The answer to that is to be careful in how you use it, in a manner which, while wasteful, would be irrelevant when using dielectric grease, by which I mean applying it so liberally that it bridged connections, etc. So then, I indeed employ it just as a dielectric grease, but also - when called for - as an aelectric grease. To a bodger, this would no doubt seem a trivial, if not entirely irrelevant, variation of use, based on an intrinsic distinction of no meaning - but then, Mr. Bodge wouldn't use dielectric grease at all would he? In fact, the distinction between these products is real and useful, and I very carefully use them variously thereby. That then is what this stuff is (as I understand and use it), and how and why I indeed use it.

Works great very consistent granular sizeNot too loud

Works as a Noalox should.

First, this is not supposed to be conductive. Dripping can short things out if it were.Second, you MUST clean the connections, THEN apply this product.Common LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate) battery cells have aluminum terminals, and will corrode preferentially when connected to copper busbars. Aluminum corrodes rapidly when exposed to air, especially in a high humidity environment. Combine that with galvanic corrosion (Google it) and you will find your connections rapidly deteriorate. This will prevent that. First clean your connections, then apply a very thin layer of Ox-Gard (as soon as possible), then connect the terminals and busbar with enough torque to make a good copper to aluminum connection. Be very careful, those aluminum terminals will strip out very easily. This is intended to prevent corrosion, not to give you a better connection, but to prevent your connection from corroding and causing a problem. Also commonly used in house wiring where the aluminum feed from the utility company meets your copper busbar in the fuse box.

This is a good anti corrosion paste to use on battery terminals, cables and crimps to ward off corrosion and failure of the connections. I've used antiox products for many years and try to use it before there is a problem, usually during installation of crimps and new battery systems and in the auto we drive. With dissimilar metals, it has limited but some valuable results from using. Lead acid battery corrosion at terminals is always a problem and I use it to minimize the build up of acid residue, the white cake that is so corrosive to any thing it get onto like sleeves of shirts, rags and your $40 jeans. Even shoes and socks can end up with it in the eyelets and sewing and then suffer the damage of the acid eating them away. Use it or loose it!I like it.

Perfect for what I needed

Mixing copper and aluminum has always been a subject of debate to some extent, so I play in the better safe than sorry camp. AA8000 alloys and the likes have changed the game yet some of use still mill our own parts from 6061 or similar, so I'm using it.

I've been a long-time Noalox user and, while I'll still use it to ensure threads don't seize, Ox-Gard has proven to be more effective at minimizing voltage drop issues in PVs.It's a bit darker than Noalox and also thicker in consistency. The latter is a good feature, as Noalox can be a bit on the runny side when it comes out of the tube. It offers the same lubrication and anti-seize benefits for threading (only needs just a wee bit to be effective - too much and you'll have a mess).But it really shines when it comes to improving conductivity. While Noalox is also conductive due to the suspended zinc particles, Ox-Gard offers better results. I use a dab at all contact points (battery, spring, posts, etc.) on all my mechanical PVs (Reo, iSeason, Sigelei, Legacy, Silver Bullet, Smok Telescope and an ELA) after cleaning, and have seen a nice improvement when measuring voltage drop under load. No, it won't turn a horrible PV design into a great one, but it will tweak out the best performance the PV is capable of.If you use mechanical PVs, this is a must-have. Highly recommend.