BLACK+DECKER3.5kW / 120-V 0.5 GPM Point Of Use Tankless Electric Water Heater with Pressure Relief Device Single Sink Water Heater

Never had to use the High setting but after almost 2 years of use the mid setting quit working. I didnt dig into what actually failed on it but it worked fine until then. One bathroom and kitchen sink. Just upgraded to a larger more refined controller instead of the 3 settings.

I can't say anything good about this. It is terrible. When I first installed it even on the lowest setting it was way too hot. Scoldingly hot, as soon as you mix in even 5% cold water the unit would just stop heating water all together. Any time you try and mix water at the faucet the unit shuts off.That is when the unit actually works, it will trip itself for what ever reason, make a huge racket when it is heating water like something is lose in there. Don't buy it, it's garbage.

I'll give it a 5 star for being easy to install, but the cable routing inside is terrible. Not even really sure how it got a UL listing for wiring, to be honest. With that said, you can't really get easier than 'hook up 3 wires and 2 pipe fittings'.The bad - there's no temperature regulation whatsoever. If it's flowing, it's on, and if it's not flowing, it's off. There's a high limit switch, but if your flow rate varies at all, the temperature fluctuates wildly. It's a common issue with cheaper electric tankless units, I just didn't expect it to be THIS bad. The 'control' on the front just determines the wattage applied to the water going through. If you have a constant flow fixture, and I mean *one* constant flow fixture, this is great.

I have this 29Kw B+D Electric Water Heater installed (outside) near the electric panel box for a few weeks so far so good, it works perfectly to provide endless hot water for 3 bathroom showers and 3 faucets in my house. This water heater is very compact, sturdy, easy to install, very efficient in operation, simple to maintain and reliable. Note that it requires 3 x 40 Amp double-pole breakers (do not confuse it with 20 Amp double-pole breakers) connecting 3 x 8/2 AWG wires; Otherwise, the circuit breakers may automatically trip due to overload current.In particular, I still keep the old gas tank water heater inside the cabinet to use whenever I need to repair and maintain a water heater without temporarily turning OFF hot water. For this purpose, I have installed a 3/4" 3-Way Stainless Steel Ball Valve into the main hot water line at the top of the water heater. From now on, I can switch to choosing GAS TANK or ELECTRIC TANKLESS water heater to keep endless hot water available for using in my home all times.My family has been extremely satisfied since using this Tankless Electric Water Heater, so I would like to recommend it to everyone as a sincere thank to Black+Deck and AMAZON.com delivered this product fast and timely with affordable selling price.By Hoa Van Tran (06/03/2021)

I really don’t like this water heater, it has 3 settings but if I set it on high, it blows the reset button. I have it on medium, which heats the water to where it is really hot, but then it stops and goes cold and I have wait a few minutes before it gets hot again. Then I only have a couple minutes to shower before it is cold again. I have average to a bit lower water pressure, but it should be ok enough for the heater to work efficiently. I live in a tiny house, only me in 380 sq feet.

As promised..... Nov. 4th Update (6 Months):---->Quick note: The heading to this review shows I'm a Vine Voice (I receive products for free for an exchange for a review. I PAID for this unit and it was not a free item.)<----After 6months of operation I have figured out how to operate this water heater the best I can. And I have to say, it's a little frustrating at times. The heater has a low, medium and high setting. What this does is allow one, two or all three heating legs of the system to operate. For everything in the house..... high (three legs) works fine. The sinks and laundry do well. BUT BUT BUT... the shower doesn't work on high. If high is selected the heater turns itself on and off consistently. You go from hot to full cold and that's not good. So..... either I leave it set to medium (two legs) all the time or I have to reset from high to medium before the shower is used. I find this ridiculous and generally leave it on medium. Which is fine but then I only needed to buy/install a 9kw heater instead of the 13kw. Also, as noted in the original review, while washing dishes or the like.... the hot water must be left on all the time or the heater goes off for a 1/2 gallon or so. I have gotten used to doing this but it still irks me to no end. With all this said.... I originally ran an appropriate 5 cable electrical service and set up the plumbing to add a second unit. I could install a second unit in order to gain additional heat and flow. I don't know if I will do this or not. I may replace this unit with a "better" one in the future. Time will tell.Original Review May 5th, 2023:I just installed this water heater a week ago and in time I will return to update this review. This is a preliminary to help those needing to make a choice.The installation is actually very easy. You run the wiring and the plumbing to the heater and attach the heater to the plumbing using flex hoses. This allows for expansion and this allowance is a MUST. Do not hard plumb this unit into your system. It is made completely of plastic and a person needs to be cognizant of this aspect or damage WILL occur.,With that said...... The plumbing is easier than anything else. Once you have the hard lines set properly.... you screw the flex hoses to the fittings and flush the air out. Secondly.... the 13kw unit requires ONE run of heavy duty electrical cable on a 60 amp breaker. Black & Decker calls for a minimum of 4awg but if you buy the correct 6awg it can readily carry the needed 55 amps over a normal length run. I used 6awg with a 1000v 90°C rating. If you are using 600v and/or anything less than 90°C..... you must go to the larger 4awg. With that said.... even with the 6awg.... I was only able to get two of the three cables into the heaters housing. The ingress is too small for all three. Obviously... the two going into the housing were the power cables. I then had to build out a ground plate (which was supplied) and attach that to the internal grounding lug. There is absolutely no space for a third cable nor is there a means of connecting it to the ground lug. The ground lug is actually a #10 stud. I used the supplied grounding plate, bored a hole through the housing, ran the grounding plate's wire to the stud and then attached the plate to the wall. I then crimped a lug connector on the ground wire and screwed that to the grounding plate. This sounds like a real pain but in reality, it was a 10 minute job. The whole install once the plumbing and new wire run were in place took 20 minutes. This heater is extremely easy to hook up.How does it work? It takes a little getting use to as its temperature output is correlated to the volume of water going through the unit and the output temp also corresponds to the input temp. I live in an are with an average of 52° incoming water and right now.... 52° is about right. The 13kw unit will heat the shower to 110+° and the perfect shower temp is about 105°. So, a person would turn the hot all the way on and then trickle in a little cold. The issue with this is...... adding cold slows the hot flow. When you slow the hot flow.... the temp goes up, you then add more cold, etc... What happens in the end is..... you find the proper location for your shower's handle or handles... then set them in the same spot each time.The hottest I have been able to get my water, with 52° incoming, was 142°. You get these kinds of temps by lowering the flow volume. A person has to learn how to operate this heater as they use it and in reality.... it's easy but takes some time. One little niggle that irks me and will irk me until the end of time...... If you are washing something, say dishes, and you turn off the hot water, even for a second, the heater stops heating and will not start again until about a 1/2 gallon flows through it. This 1/2 gallon cools the sensors and turns the heater back on. WHICH MEANS...... soon..... you have a 1/2 gallon of 52° water at the faucet and you have to wait for it to pass. What irks me is..... I am so use to turning off the hot water to save energy..... NOT trying to turn it off is like pulling teeth. Listening to it run is the proverbial scratch across the chalkboard. I'm learning to let it run but after 50 years of watching hot water costs.... yep irksome.Lastly.... I love the idea that my hot water costs nothing until I use it. If a person were to be gone a few days..... no cost whatsoever. I did the math..... my 13kw unit operating on a 13 cents a kw cost...... costs me $0.028 a minute, 2.8 cents a minute. A 10 minute show is 28 cents. And this is if all three heating legs are running full power. Supposedly, this unit modulates itself when it can by cutting one or two of its heating legs to maintain temp.I'll be back with a longevity report one day. I recommend you try this B&D Tankless.

Well I live in Colorado with water temperature pretty cold. I have only one bathroom. I also placed a pressure valve to control how much psi was going though we set it on the lowest pressure of 45* and the heater had no problem could go up to 80 to 100 psi and still have a continuous flow of hot water. So it’s wonderful and know black and decker warranty. I could have ask for much more! Thank you