3 Port 22mm or 28mm Motorised Mid Position Zone Valve Powerhead Replacement for V4073A1039 V4073A1054 V4073A1088 V4073A1062

Easy to fit onto the 3 way valve. Works OK. Good delivery

Simple "industry standard" replacement. Works well. Though in our case it wasn't the motor that was the problem, we had to replace the ball assembly inside the valve which wasn't sealing. Both are straightforward repairs and way cheaper than a new valve.

These were easy-ish to install and seem to work fine. They're not Honeywell, but they seem to be totally compatible, with identical dimensions, wiring colours, etc.The only minor complaints are:- our Honeywell powerheads were mounted using T-10 screws, whereas these use normal cross-head screws. While that's nothing like a big issue, it does mean that when the valves are mounted in a hard-to-access location (as in our case), it's not always easy to tell what sort of screwdriver to use, as a lot is done by feel. So, if they need work doing in the future, there may be a bit of confusion when a T-10 doesn't work. Also, cross-head screws don't hold the screwdriver head in as firmly as Torx screws, which is a bit harder when working by feel.- the screw holding the cover on falls out when unscrewed fully. On the Honeywell powerheads, the screw is (deliberately) deformed so that it holds in the unit when it's unscrewed. Again, when you're working by feel, having the screw fall out is not ideal as it's pretty much impossible to put back in by feel. I ended up having to fit and unfit one of the powerheads three times because of this (so I could see it while I screwed the cover screw back in). (The screws connecting the powerhead to the valve itself ARE designed so those don't fall out, otherwise it would have been a nightmare).

This unit is compatible with the original Honeywell power head for the V4073A valve and in some ways is built to a better standard, for example it has a proper plastic insulation tray under and around the electric circuit board instead of a piece of folded card. Operation is smooth and quiet.

A proper plastic shroud around the circuit board instead of some cheap cardboard that the old Honeywell one had. The only downside is that the cover isn’t directly earthed to the case but it’s in metal to metal contact so the risk of a shock would be minimal, just don’t go removing it without isolating the power, which you should never do anyway! Works fine so we’ll see about reliability but the last honeywell unit I had only lasted about a year or two.Pro tip: If replacing a Honeywell unit, save the torx fasteners. It makes installing much easier if you can’t see both mounting fasteners!

After fitting the valve, the heating still did not turn on. So the only part that would be faulty was the Nest Link. Google actually promised to pay for the engineer to come and do the test to prove, that the Nest Link is faulty. I got the engineer the same day, thank you very much, but he found out that the valve was faulty. That cost me £100 and new valve.Now I am out of pocket, at least the heating works.

I replaced a Honeywell part with this and the build quality looked similar. The original part only lasted two years, so I thought this was worth a try. It has been woring well since fitting.

As others have said, the microswitch doesn't quite get activated by the lever manually. I did wire it before fitting and checked that the motor did activate the switch but now I have fitted it it is still intermittently not activating the boiler output so I need to take it back off and modify the activation point of the lever, as others have done. It also self heats quite a bit from the motor even when no hot water passing so may not last long.