knobelite 10 Pairs 18 Inch Undermount Drawer Slides, Self Soft Close Full Extension Drawer Rails Concealed Drawer Runners Adjustable Locking Devices Mounting Brackets Screws Included

I used these in a larger built in drawer set I made for one of our bedroom closets.If you’ve never worked with or seen a video on how to install them may not make sense and instructions are vague. Plenty of youtube videos for that, just watch something on Undermount Drawer Slide Instillation. Same concept even with other brands.They’re sturdy and slide very well. I didn't have any issues on my set of 10. Would definitely recommend these for the price. I think they would be fine for client use if a Blum set is not within the budget.

These drawer slides seem well-built and able to carry any load my drawers might contain, but installation and drawer-fit instructions could stand a HUGE improvement. If you don't mind playing with them and figuring out the exact size of the drawers to make them work smoothly, then they're a good value. Would it be so difficult for manufacturers to include some decent instructions and maybe templates for where to drill holes and cut notches?

Got these to replace the cheap roller slides that came with the cabinets. The full extension is AMAZING! Fairly aasy to install. Some installation tips:* The "instructions" sheet in the box is utterly useless, but the video in the description is very helpful.* The plastic rear brackets have 2 protruding plastic pins that need to sit in 2 holes on the cabinet back. Your cabinet may already have predrilled holes for adjustable shelf pins, and if you're lucky, they're the exact same distance as the pins on the bracket (in fact, your current drawer slide brackets may already be using them). In that case, all you have to do is enlarge them if needed. If you're not lucky, either you don't have predrilled holes or they're the wrong distance. In that case, I highly recommend you mount the bracket on a separate piece of scrap wood and screw it to the cabinet, instead of drilling new holes directly into the cabinet. I found it almost impossible to drill new holes in that cramped space that are A. plumb with the ground, B. the exact distance as the bracket pins and C. level with the cabinet front. If you get A or C wrong, the slides will bind. Get B wrong and the bracket will be impossible to insert, or even if you can shove it in, it'll mess with the slides' functioning. It's WAY easier to drill correct holes on a loose piece of wood. Then put the slide on the bracket, rest the front end on the cabinet front, place the wood on the back and adjust until it's level, mark the wood's position and screw it on.* The bottoms of the drawer sides need to "fall" into the channels on the slides. If one side does not, your drawer is too small. That's an easy fix. Instead of screwing the slide front directly to the cabinet face frame, add a shim in between, which will bring the 2 sides of the slides closer together. Any thin scrap wood will do. I used bits of 1/8" bamboo strips from an old blind. Popsicle sticks or paint stirrers work too. Add them until the drawer sides sit comfortably in the channels. I ended up needing 3 pieces of 1/8" shims per drawer. Once I knew this, I added them to all drawers while mounting the fronts, and they all fit on the first try.* The heads of the front screws need to be completely flush with the metal around them, or chaos will ensue. Any protruding head will dig into the drawer side and scratch it up, not to mention preventing smooth gliding and soft closing. If you hear grinding or the drawers aren't smooth, check their sides and see if there's any long scratch along their length. That'll be the screw heads. Once I fixed that, the drawer worked flawlessly.* The rear brackets are plastic, which is obviously not ideal but should still be fine for light drawers. For heavy ones, no need to buy metal brackets. Just add support in the middle by screwing in a piece of scrap wood between the slide and the cabinet side. The slides have tons of drill holes in the middle. Two caveats: the screw heads need to be flush, same as my previous tip, and the scrap wood needs to be exactly the right thickness to fill the slide-wall gap, so that the slide remains straight. Even 1/32" off will deform the slide and cause binding. It's not as hard as it sounds. Just keep adding shims and pieces of cardboard (like from a cereal box) until it's thick enough.* You can install the "switches" on the drawer bottoms without emptying the drawer. Just clamp them to the drawer, place the drawer front overhanging a countertop, and drive the screws from the bottom. Saved me a lot of time emptying and refilling drawers with a million bits of lightweight junk in them.One complaint: my drawers have 1/4" plywood bottoms, which is standard. The screws that attach the switches WILL poke out the other side. As in, the tips end up in the drawer, getting in the way and potentially poking you. Is there no way to avoid that?

The media could not be loaded. No funciona como debería es muy duro para abrir y cuando lo empujas para que cierre no llega a cerrar solo el soft close no hace su función, esto es basura no gasten su dinero, busque algo de mejor calidad.

These drawer slides will save you 2/3rds the price of a set at a big box stores. The ease of installation of these slides is unprecedented, I had a new helper of 3 days was able to install them with out any issues.

These seem to be well built and were a good price for a 4 pack of 21 inch slides. Everything required to install was included. I was pleasantly surprised that the rear bracket and screw hole for the old Blum slides fit these perfectly, so installation was incredibly simple, remove one screw, pull the slide out of the bracket, insert the new one, and replace the screw. I spent more time removing the items from my drawers so I could replace the latches on the bottom. I didn't even end up opening the screw packets.It's a good thing that it was that simple, because the instructions wouldn't have been of any help at all. I am not sure why they even bother to include them. The rear brackets that came with the slides were the plastic type with dowels that stick out of the back, which I think would have been extremely tedious to install without some sort of template to drill level and properly spaced holes.Unfortunately, I am pretty disappointed with the action of the slides. They aren't at all smooth. They are a bit noisy and require more force than I'd like to open and close. The slow close works fine, but if you don't shove the drawer hard enough, it will stop before that mechanism engages. In retrospect, I wish I'd spend extra money and went with higher quality slides to get something that operates more like the old Blum slides did, but with slow close.I do like how far they extend out. The back of the drawer stops flush with the face, which is a few inches farther than my old ones.

My old cabinets had no sliders at all originally — just wood-on-wood. These sliders are sturdy and work well, but they were designed for cabinets and shelves of specific depths and construction. It was not easy to adapt them for use with my old cabinets (or rather, to adapt my cabinets to work with them). But it worked out better than side-mounted sliders would have.

I ordered 10 of these drawer slides to custom build slide outs for a new kitchen installation. These are heavy duty I recommend these. They have the soft close feature, and they are easy to install, and easy to remove the drawers from the cabinet if needed.