RheemSP11526C R-Tech Magnesium Anode Rod

This is the best deal I could find. These are the largest size you can fit in your water heater and all magnesium. Even if it's too long you save money just cut it to length. I had to remove about an inch to get it to fit in a State brand shorty water heater. This is the size used in the twelve year warranty heaters some use two of these or add the special type in the hot water port except that type is more expensive. Keep up on your anode rod and flushing the tank regularly and you can get a water heater to last thirty years. My last one lasted 27 years and was still working but since it was a rental house we changed it out between tenants to keep from having to do it while it was rented. Good product for what it is; the local Ferguson Enterprises doesn't even carry this size. Just wish the label wasn't so hard to get off. Remove it or it will soak off in the heater and possibly find it's way to a sink aerator and clog it but possibly just sit at the bottom of the tank until you drain/flush it out. I scraped it off with the side of a screw driver blade.

Standard part, works and lasts as expected. I cut a few inches off the end with a metal saw (watch out for magnesium sparks) to allow easy installation in my water heater with limited clearance to the ceiling. I have installed 2 of these over the last 10 years, and I keep one on hand for the annual inspection to make it easy to flip a new one in when the old one is eaten away to show the core.

If you're shopping for an anode rod, you probably know what it does and how to replace it. However, for the sake of anyone not so sure, sacrificial anodes, like this one 'sacrifice' themselves to prevent your water heater tank from prematurely rusting out and sprouting a leak. This one is a magnesium alloy, resistor type. Others are made from alloys of aluminum, etc. In my case, replacement was very easy: I had enough clearance over the water heater to install this 'contiguous' anode (if you don't, look for one that looks like linked sausage), I have the correct 1-1/16 6 point impact socket, and I have a stout Ingersoll-Rand impact wrench. I consider these tools (or, as an alternate, a powerful cordless/electric impact wrench) a must. While you may read that the rod can be removed with a socket, breaker bar (don't use a ratchet as you'll risk damaging yourself or the tool), and possibly a long pipe to slip over the handle of the breaker bar (a.k.a. a 'cheater'), you likely won't have the space to swing the tool, making the job all the more frustrating.In my case, I replaced the anode rod in a 6 year old, 6 year warranty, Rheem 75 gallon water heater,. The old one was about 95% depleted thus proving that I was in the danger zone for my tank to start corroding. Other than the aforementioned tools, the job is easy:1. Turn off the cold water2. Turn off the fuel source (gas or electricity)3. Drain +/- 2-4 gallons of water from the silcock (caution: the water will be hot) (also: once the silcock is open and running for a couple of minutes, open the Temperature and pressure valve to relieve the potential vacuum in the tank to make draining easier)4. Unscrew the anode using the impact wrench/socket combination described above5. Wrap Teflon tape around the threads of the new anode rod6. Carefully insert into the tank and thread the new rod initially by hand (using the socket) to prevent cross threading. The anode has pipe threads, so it will become difficult to turn within a turn to 1.5 turns of the hex.7. Finish tightening using a 1/2" drive ratchet to a snug level of torque.8. If you have a multi-meter, you can confirm continuity (which is what you want for the anode to do it's job) between the anode and the tank using the resistance setting, putting one probe on the anode hex head and the other on an unpainted portion of the water heater (note that if you attempt to measure from either the hot or cold water pipe, you should touch the probe in as close a proximity to the top of the water heater as possible. Some water heaters use dielectric unions which may affect the resistance readings).9. Turn on the cold water supply and fuel source and check for leaks.There are many videos on the topic to bolster your knowledge before attempting replacement if you so need/desire. if you have an expansion tank adjacent to your water heater (like http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007EOTUF6/ref=asc_df_B007EOTUF63210795?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=pg-845-86-20&linkCode=df0&creative=395097&creativeASIN=B007EOTUF6), this is a good time to check the static pressure in that tank (you'll find a Schrader valve on top of the tank and the static pressure in that tank should be = to the incoming water pressure of your home [around 40-60psi])All in all it took me longer to write this review than it did to replace the rod. My rationale for 4 stars is that the rod had 3 paper labels affixed to the first 6 inches of the rod and removing them was annoyingly difficult. Ultimately a citrus-based degreaser, a non-woven abrasive pad (aka Scotch-brite), a razor scraper and a through cleaning with soap and water thereafter took care of the labels. I have deducted one star for that unnecessary annoyance.

11-year old water heater, a little overdue for replacing the anode rod. See the picture for what the top of the old rod looked like. To remove the old rod you need a 6-point 1-1/16” socket and a lot of torque. Drain some of the water out first. I ended up using a 20-volt Dewalt DCF921 impact wrench to get it loose. A set of needle-nose pliers can grab the top of the rod and get it up to where you can grab it to pull it out. It will fight you a bit, but eventually it will come out of the tank. These are sold as “cut to fit” and I had to take about 6” off the end because of interference with the roof of the garage. YMMV. With it suitably shortened, it went in without a fight and the impact snugged it back up pretty well.Basically, if you don’t have a good anode, the tank will start rusting and pretty soon, it will be new water heater time. I’ve seen varying suggested replacement intervals, but all I can say is 11 years is probably a little longer than desirable.

The anode rod itself, is fine, but the sticker label is of the variety that is extremely difficult to remove. On top of that, at some point in the anode rods (I ordered two), someone put a bunch of clear packing tape on the rods. The backing tape is also extremely difficult to remove. What should've been at most, an hour long project to replace the anode rods in both my water heaters, has turned into a day-long ordeal. I don't want to introduce the glue from the labels and packing tape into my potable water. The manufacturer and distributor's should know better than to put labels and tape onto items that will be submerged in hot potable water.

Well, it looks good, feels good and it is now in my water heater, and hopefully doing its job. Old anode rod had been in place for 13 years before I learned that they needed to be changed out. Old rod very hard to remove. I started out using a 200 lb torque wrench, but I was moving my 80 gallon water heater around too much. I then tried soaking with PB Blaster, but no luck. Next came my electric heat gun, but the insulation started smoking. Finally, I wheeled my compressor around and used my pneumatic wrench (just like they use at the tire shop). After a few light taps on the trigger the rod came free. I used teflon tape to seal on the new rod. No problems.