Amazon Basics PETG 3D Printer Filament, 1.75mm, Purple, 1 kg Spool

I use this filament for personal use first but after see the great performance I also start using it for profesional use as well and this make the job.It has all the good things you are looking for in the 3D printing world but also it has a very very good price super competitive.Really recommend this product

I had originally written a 1 star review, but apparently it was so critical of the product that it was erased by moderators.I had some serious gripes about this filament, and I still do, but at about $40 it's not so bad once you get it dialed in. The print quality and strength is actually pretty decent, and even sands and files pretty well, but be prepared to dial down the print speed really low. I have to print this stuff at about 15mm per second for walls and 30mm per second for infill, the hot-end needs to be at about 250c, and the bed works best at around 100c for the first layer, then after that you can dial it down to 95c to minimize the chance of warping; it's a great ideal to use glue stick, but be warned that you'll need to cool to about 30c or below before you attempt to remove the print from the bed, or else you'll chance taking out chunks of glass from your bed.. I use .20mm for the first layer, and .30mm layer height there after; this is with a .4mm nozzle.On my Ender 3, using these settings in Cura, using retraction enabled and a really tightly leveled bed, I could get things to print well at first, and things got significantly better in later prints after tweaking things a bit. Finially after much frustration and many failed attempts, I was seeing perfect first layers and really nice prints.This stuff takes about twice as long to print things nicely than 3D Solutech's PETG, but it is strong, especially if you print with thicker walls. Also Amazon's brand, with these black filaments, looks pretty nice and sands well if you wish to paint it or polish it up. I sanded a print down with several different sanding papers, and it comes out shiny with the 2300-3000s after you've buffed it up really good. You might want to print things a mm or so thicker than needed, with 100% infill if you want to have a perfectly smooth finish. I haven't tried the baking method or any other trick, but possible printing at .1mm layer height could produce spectacular results, barring the extra long printing duration.At $40 for the 3-pack, and with some insight going in to print with this stuff, it's not so bad, and it's actually a pretty decent deal if you know the caveats that this filament presents beforehand.

I don't usually write reviews unless a product is very good or very bad and this definitely falls in the very good category. The internet trolls would have you believe that PETG is very fickle and needs a lot of work to get only modestly good prints but if this roll is any indication I might be printing a lot more with PETG.I've been printing for almost 10 months now and almost exclusively with PLA. I finally decided to try PETG because many of my PLA printed upgrades have worn out and I've heard that PETG is much more durable (time will tell).I started with the Priest V4 profile for Simplify3D, I'll note the changes I made below. These settings seem to work good for my CR-10s. This is my first print with PETG so these probably aren't final values but they did good for the pictured items. Your experience may vary. For the bolt and unpictured nuts I bumped infill to 100% and changed the layer height to .1.Retraction Vertical lift: .25Retraction speed: 75Coasting Distance: .05Outline/Perimeter Shells: 2First Layer Speed: 25%Optimize start points for fastest printing speed: YesInterior Fill Percentage: 20%Internal Infill Angle Offsets: 45, 0, 90, -45 (I did this on these parts for increased strength)External Infill Angle Offsets: 45, 0, 90, -45 (I did this on these parts for increased strength)Heated Bed Temp: 80Primary Extruder: Layer 1, 235; Layer 2, 232Maximum cooling fan speed: 100%Default Printing Speed: 35X/Y Axis Movement Speed: 150Avoid crossing outline for travel movements: NoI printed all these parts on a Lowes mirror tile with a coating of hairspray. I also printed these with a brass nozzle which I hear can be problematic with PETG. I have a nickle plated nozzle but I haven't switched it out yet.A final note I have about PETG, everywhere you look one of the characteristics is that PETG is more flexible than PLA or ABS. This is true but really only in that it will flex more before breaking. It is not a flexible material by any means. It does also string a little more than PLA, but I have a feeling with more tweaking I can get this down more too. The stringing was not an issue at all on these prints and I printed multiple parts in one shot so there was a lot of travel between parts.I wish they had black in the 1.75mm. At the time of writing this it isn't showing so maybe they are just out.

La photo montre le tout 1er print avec ce PETG. Le résultat est quasi parfait !Contexte : Tornado avec dual-Z mécanique. Tête E3D V6, rétraction 3mm. Température 240°C, sauf couche finale 225°C, trop bas et de ce fait léger défaut : voir photo. Bed réglé à 90°c donnant 70°C MESURE avec adhésif sombre collé sur le miroir qui a remplacé depuis longtemps l'ersatz de buildtak bien pourri fourni avec cette imprimante. BL Touch avec autolevel G29 25 points à chaque print (vrai BLTouch et pas la contrefaçon pourrie que l'on voit un peu partout, que j'ai testée et qui a fini à la poubelle !). Buse 0.4mm, 1ère couche 0.2mm, couches de 0.2mm, adaptative layers, brim, laque à cheveux LIDL kipu. Adhésion parfaite. Bien sûr le Z-offset est réglé avec soin, et en cas de besoin (pas eu besoin ici), le baby stepping est là pour corriger pendant l'impression du brim ou du skirt ! Bowden + Capricorn. Etalonnage de l'extrudeur sur 200mm. Je précise que je suis en train d'abandonner le PLA, et que je ne fais plus que du PETG, les restes de PLA étant réservés à des pré-prototypes. Uniquement pièces structurelles, pas ou presque pas de "déco", CAO maison avec design tenant compte des spécificités de l'impression 3D.A propos du stringing dont beaucoup se plaignent... Le PETG ça string, et parfois ça zit, en particulier avec les buses fines comme les 0.4mm. Et les strings, ça tient parfois du bon gros vieux slip kangourou à la Reiser. Si on ne veut pas de string, on imprime du PLA bien fluide ! Ou on prend de grosses buses genre 0.8 à 1.2mm ! A cause de la viscosité de la matière et de la pression accumulée. On conçoit ses pièces en fonction, en évitant les angles aigus intérieurs.Saucisse sur la choucroute : sac réutilisable avec un gros sachet de silicagel. Il suffit de le poser sur le bed pendant impression pour le recycler : à la fin, il est prêt pour retourner dans le sac étanche avec le rouleau de filament. Le reel a 3 "arrêts de fil" sur chaque joue. Malheureusement ils sont en regard les uns des autres, ce qui ne donne que 3 positions à 120°. Il aurait suffi que les joues soient décalées de 60° pour avoir 6 positions au lieu de 3. Facile à concevoir sans surcout de fabrication (il suffit que le BE réfléchisse 3mn pour pondre des joues identiques qui peuvent se décaler à l'assemblage ; ça devait être un stagiaire !). Les graduations de masse restantes sont un plus. mais franchement, l'intérêt est mineur : il vaut mieux peser et soustraire la masse d'un reel vide, c'est nettement plus précis !En résumé, bien mieux que ce que je payais nettement plus cher jusqu'à présent ! Super produit, hyper content.

Seeing this I was initially in two minds about ordering - anyone that's ordered budget PETG before is well aware that it's a total gamble as to whether you'll get anything worth using. Luckily I was pleasantly surprised by this, while it doesn't compete with some of the higher end brand names, it's also substantially cheaper and works perfectly well for the vast majority of prints. It also comes on a very nicely marked up reel - something you usually don't get on budget spools.In terms of print quality it's eminently usable, slightly oozier than a higher end filament and thus a little more prone to stringing, but it's definitely punching well above it's price range when compared to other cheaper brands I've used. My only real complaint is that it's currently only available in a rather sickly pale pink, an odd colour choice. If I want a paler colour I tend to just go with white/grey or natural coloured filament, otherwise I like my filaments to be fairly bold. It's a niggle but I deeper saturation would have been more pleasant than what's on offer.Otherwise I've had no issues with the spool - nicely wound with no catches (something that's far from a given with budget spools). Ultimately this is a perfectly decent cheap alternative if you need to get some bulk printing done but don't want to break the bank. No, it's not as nice as a brand name high end filament, but it's more than good enough for most tasks and frankly that's all you need most of the time.

Love the product, from start to finish.I'm sad to see the other colors are no longer available, and I'm worried Amazon may discontinue the product line.I think it's only fair that Amazon disclose who the supplier is for this filimant if they decide to stop carrying it 😜Recommendations:As with any other filimant, pay close attention to your printing environment!I regularly read comments on web from people who seem to underestimate the importance of their printers capabilities and their environment.I never have problems printing this filimant, as long as I have:Cleaned the print head with brass brush.Cleaned the bed (use 99% alcohol if PEI!)Manually extruded 3-4cm of spooled material before even starting the print, as this helps to clear out excess moisture and left over/used material from inside the head (equiv. ~20cm material out of the nozzle depending on head size)And lastly, keep the room I print in dry. Can't stress enough, it's not just about the way you store the filimant. Where I live, there's days that if I open the window around 6PM, I simply can't get any filimant to stick to the bed.Other worthwhile mentions:- Lowering first layer print height can actually make bed adhesion worse.- Make sure your printer is actually capable of PETG before you expect it to do so, let alone well.- Try slowing down print speeds to increase the first layer adhesion. 10mm/s is slow but sometimes required with PETG, even on high end printers.All in all, product works reliably better compared to other filimants available on Amazon, when given a truely fair playing field/environment for comparison.The Prusa i3Mk3 prints this beautifully on the default/generic PETG settings in PrusaSlicer.

I've been using this on my Monoprice Voxel (a.k.a. Flashforge Adventurer III), which has been able to print PLA and PETG quite nicely with very little trouble.For about half the price of my other PETG filament, I figured I'd give this one a go.I opted for grey because I wanted a neutral color that wasn't black and wasn't super bright - I actually really like this color and the prints are more semi-gloss than the super shiny results I get with my other PETG.The recommended temperatures are 230-240c with an 80c bed - no problem, except anything below 245c either clogs my printer or it under-extrudes like crazy. I've had to unclog my machine at least a half dozen times while trying to get this filament to work. My best results come at 250c.Bed adhesion is a non-issue and I've had no trouble with that. This filament, like most PETG, does tend to get stringy, so testing and adjusting your settings is almost guaranteed to happen.Layer adhesion tends to be hit and miss - sometimes getting great, strong prints, and other times I can break things apart without trying.When I think I find a setting that works, I'll make a "somewhat successful print", try again, and I'll get massive failures. Or the print will start off looking fine, but then it'll glob and the print is ruined. I definitely have to micromanage prints a lot more with this filament than anything else I've used.I contacted Amazon, who said it may be a bad batch. I'll give them that one, but I will be reordering this again at a later date to see if anything has changed.

after a half spool of the filament and some playing with my temp settings i noticed that whatever i did try i did not get a good bonding at the first 2 layers, i started adding cooling fan from the first layer on and have my bed on 85 celcius and my hotend on 240.. still stringing,, i used the prusa slic3r settings as i print with a prusa mk2 and still added 20 procent fan at the first layer and my bed adhesion was awesome and my stringing was gone,, and noticed that after a few layers i was printing on 90 cel on the bed and 250 yes 250 on the hotend and it was printing awesome.. .. just find you sweetspot and you are good to go.. i did btw have my hotend and bed calibrated to get the best result.. i did add gcodes in my printer to make my temp as consistent as possible during my prints..