Genie Model GIRUD-1T Alleviates Frequency Interference in Garage Door Opener Remotes Upgrades Most Major Brands to Intellicode Security, Black

My garage door opener was getting to the point where I was certain I had to replace the whole thing. The range of the remotes kept getting shorter and I was never certain if a button press would open the door resulting in quite a bit of frustration. Just what I needed to hassle with in this county's crazy quilt of good and bad neighborhoods. The remotes were falling apart and despite me soldering in new buttons and what not I didn't think the last working remote would last much longer and I was having problems finding replacements. I tried making the antenna bigger and bending it into different shapes but I could only reduce the operating range. In addition there have been a couple late night garage burglaries around the neighborhood and I wanted to upgrade to the rolling code receiver.The GIRUD-1T I received had the same problem others have reported with the loose circuit board but it wasn't too hard to correct. To determine if the circuit board is loose look at the holes in the bottom side of the unit (with the unit oriented like it was mounted on a wall). Four silver screws should be protruding from a hole. If you don't see the screws the board is definitely loose. If you push the screws with your finger the screws should not move. If they move up into the cover then the circuit board is loose. You should also be able to see two small holes next to those screws. You should be able to see an LED in one and tiny button in the other. You need access to those to program your remotes. Here is a brief summary of how I re-seated the circuit board in mine:1. Find a good work surface because the circuit board is loose inside the cover and you don't want to drop it on the floor.2. Look on the back and note where the clips protrude through the base. You want to squeeze on those sides until the clips let the cover come off. It's thin plastic so be gentle with it. You may have to jiggle and work it a little to get it to pop off.3. The circuit board will just be laying there and that's why you have to be careful not to let it fall out.4. Decide which side will be the bottom, that is the side the screws the power and control wires will be attached to is on.5. Slid the bottom of the circuit board into the notches in the bottom posts and under the plastic clip in the center. Make sure the corners of the board go into the notches on the posts, line up perfectly and go in completely and it's firmly under the notch in the clip.6. Rotate the board down making sure it stays under the clip and in the post notches on the bottom.7. When it touches the clip on the top push up on that clip so the board can push by it and into the notch on the clip without a lot of pressure. When that happens the top corners should be in the notches in the top posts. Be careful not to bend that clip too much. The plastic feels like it could crack if bent too much. At this point it should securely held in place and not want to pop out. If not, remove the circuit board and start at step 5 again. It took me a couple tries to get it in right. If another person or a vise can hold the base for you I think that would make it easier to install the circuit board.8. Put the cover on. Make sure the holes in the cover match up with the 4 screws that you will be attaching wires to later. Push the clips on the cover through the holes in the base place until they click into place.9. Then follow the directions that came with the receiver to set it up. Note that it comes with one spool of wire. Remember that wire is used to connect both the receiver to the power source (e.g. transformer) and to the opener so at some point you'll have to cut it.This receiver has worked out great for me. I went from having to be less than a car length away from the door for it to receive the signal to it working from far enough away the door is up enough to drive in by the time I reach the garage. The new remotes are tiny and run on coin cell batteries. I only have to push the button on them once and door responds versus the one, two, three, four or more times with the old remotes. I set it up a month ago and for the $35 I think it's a great deal. The remotes sell for $20 separately so in a way I paid $15 for the receiver. The increase in range might be questionable security-wise but the big wins to me are that it opens reliably when I press the remote button and that I can obtain additional/replacement remotes.If you want the receiver because you are concerned about the security of your current remote control system, don't forget you have to disable the old receiver. I suggest waiting a month or two so you're sure the GIRUD-1T you installed is working correctly and reliably and then you can cut or in some other way disable the old antenna wire so the old receiver can't receive a signal.The other thing I found confusing was determining which remote was included because product photos showed two different remotes. Mine came with the G3T-R: Genie G3T-R Intellicode2 3-Button Remote It's about the size of a car alarm remote. Just measured it and it's about 2-3/4" x 1-5/8" x 3/4" without the visor clip installed.Quick note: The way the burglars got into a couple garages was to slide a wire or similar in above the door and using it to hook the emergency release cord and pull it so they could open the door manually. The cheap sliding pot-metal "locks" optional on some doors were bent by whatever they were using for leverage to raise the door. So something far more substantial has to be used to block the wheels in the track. A C-Clamp, big bolt, etc. This of course only works if you lock it from the inside and that can only be done after all the cars, etc. are in for the night. The other option is to remove the emergency release cord. If that door is the only exit from the garage you have to be careful about doing that to make sure someone isn't trapped in the garage during a fire, etc. The work around suggested by an alarm company is to keep a wire hanger with a hook shape bent into the end somewhere in the garage (not hanging off the emergency release of course) and if the door has to be opened the person hooks the wire through the release and pulls. Simple but it could be an issue in the confusion during an emergency not mention consume what might be precious seconds. If you are leaving for a long weekend or vacation it might be a good idea to put the bolts etc. into the tracks and exit the garage from a more secure door.

Directions are fairly straight forward. Great improvement so you can use newer intellicode based remotes. Hooked right up to my older Genie door opener! Getting the wires into these old school screw terminals can be a little tricky if you are up on a ladder messing with them. These screw in terminals should be replaced with the new click style wire contacts. Other than that, installation was simple and it works like a champ!

Amazing product - works perfectly with my 1950s Moore-O-Matic X150a-S! Easy install and quality clicker!

I got this to replace the very insecure radio unit for a 1980's vintage Powerlift opener, and to use it with the HomeLink remote in my new Camry. Works great - more on that later.But first, I want to clear up whether it works with older openers that don't have the infrared safety beams. It says it doesn't, but it does. The package says this:"ATTENTION! Operates with garage door openers manufactured 1993 to present with the current infrared beam systems. Do not install receiver unless all safety reversing systems are working properly. If you garage door opener was manufactured before 1993, it does not include current safety features and should be replaced with a fully-featured garage door opener."I'm sure the lawyers wrote that so they wouldn't get sued if you accidentally squash Aunt Minnie's chihuahua with the garage door. But it's not actually true. Technically, this unit doesn't care whether there are safety beams or not. All it is is a remote controlled switch. It works just like the door opener button in your garage, and in fact is simply wired in parallel to the manual button. It closes an electrical connection in response to a radio command, that's all. So ANY door opener with a pushbutton switch can use this.Having raised 3 kids to adulthood, and having had multiple pets that somehow escaped squashing, all under the looming menace of a garage door with no safety beams, I'm not inclined to trash a perfectly functioning opener. Besides, I'm lazy, and installing this was a lot easier than installing a new opener.Installation was easy. I didn't even have to use the wall wart transformer because my opener already had a 24VAC output. The opener had 3 terminals, marked "Radio Power", "Relay", and "24V". The GIRUD-1T has three terminals, marked "Power", "Common", and "Wallbutton Terminal". This is how to hook it up:- Opener "Radio Power" to GIRUD-1T "Power";- Opener "Relay" to GIRUD-1T "Wallbutton Terminal"- Opener "24V" to GIRUD-1T "Common"Hooking it up this way avoids running a long wire to the power outlet, and giving up a plug in the outlet for the transformer. Your opener may be different. If it's not clear, the diagram shown in the instructions using the transformer should work in any case.The provided wire is very thin gauge and breaks easily. Any type of insulated wire can be used for this application - thermostat wire, phone wire, speaker wire, plain hook-up wire. But the provided wire works OK if nothing better is on hand.Once I had the wires hooked up and the unit screwed to a joist, I tested it with the remote. Worked fine. Then I programmed the HomeLink transmitter located in the rearview mirror of my Camry. This involves pushing a recessed button on the GIRUD-1T, and then pushing the HomeLink button in the car within 30 seconds. Tip: use longer wires than necessary and do this after you connect the wires but before you screw the unit down. Might save you a rushed trip down the ladder to make it to the car on time.The HomeLink works well in the car. I haven't tested the maximum range, but it works at the end of my driveway. Now I can throw out the huge yellowed duct-taped remote we've been using all these years!The description talks a lot about the dual frequency and avoiding interference. That hasn't been a problem where I live, despite the proximity of an Air National Guard base, so I can't comment on it.In summary, a simple and effective upgrade to an old garage door opener.