TDA7498 100W + 100W Dual Channel Class D Audio Amplifier Board, DC 24V Digital Stereo Power Amp Module for 8Ω Home Theater Subwoofer Computer Speaker Motorcycle

I went back to order another amplifier because it is excellent. I recommend it 100%. The service provided by this seller is amazing.

In every way these are awesome as long as you don't ask them to drive piezo tweets.

First one showed up with a capacitor broken off the board. Returned that and ordered another one. The second one showed up with 2 loose capacitors on the board. I’m going to give it another shot and order a 3rd one. The amp seams to be good. I hooked it up, good power for its small size. It’s packaged horribly to be honest.

This is a nice unit for the money it is abgreat one has speaker poping on and off

I am not to happy with this product because when I opened it the heatsinks was attached by what appeared to be caulk only and it fell right off output connectors barely soldered to the board very loose

works great , had a old sub that old amp board had blown and this did the trick.

another update - Oct 18Got another amp that was bad.I Left the rating the same, as the quality issue was immediately apparent and is being returned thru Amazon for a refund. (I would drop the rating if an amp appeared good, worked for awhile, and then died after the Amazon refund period)As I took it out of the package the heatsink fell off. It had only heatsink compound holding it on. Some of the 100w+100w TDA7498 amps I have gotten on Amazon now have the heatsink fastened with 2 screws and those would not have the issue. Sometimes you do a repeat order of these boards and they come from a different seller and have a slightly different appearance/configuration from the photo, so hard to predict what you might get.Of the 9 of these amps I have bought in teh last year, 3 have been returned for failures and one died after a few months. I love the performance and the price, but the reliability matches the $12-16 price. I think I'll be going back to Sure amps, I have 2 that are 2+ years old and workign with no fuss. More expensive initially but cheaper in the long run, and I can spend more time listening and less time repairing.--------------------------------------UPDATE from March 2019-Must drop my rating a bit.1 of these amps is now junk. The heatsink is attached only to the main amp chip, so the wobble I mentioned earlier comes from movement of the chip's legs to the board (terrible design!). 1 amp had some connections on the main chip get shorted while handling it (it was powered up), causing a tiny fireball to shoot out for a brief moment, then all was dead. I've been evaluating a variety of amp boards and X-overs recently, and sometimes things get jostled a little on my setup board while I'm configuring and testing. While this short-out is theoretically my own doing, one must consider that if you made a portable music player, and moved it while it was playing, the same could happen to you.Other amps of similar design that I've purchased have a sealant between the heatsink and nearby capacitors. My 2nd amp now has the same (courtesy of a hot-glue gun), and all is well with that one.Due to the nature of product improvements, pictures don't always match, etc - I wouldn't hesitate to get more of this amp design, but if it comes without sealant make sure to put some on before you finish your installation.Bought 2 of the 100+100 watt amp boards after a bit of research on here.Overall - they perform well in spite of some quality issues. I would buy more for future projects provided these 2 prove to be durable long-term. Read further if you want detail.These have RCA inputs, which is nice vs some comparable amps that have only the flimsy white 3-pin input connector and the short very-light-gauge jumper cable - so it saves a soldering job. But the RCAs are right next to the volume knob, which is a weird location.Tested these with a set of 20+ year-old Polk bookshelf speakers (6.5 driver, softdome tweeter, passive radiator) and it sounds decent. Higher volume shows a system that is starting to lose its quality, but I can't say whether it's the amp or speakers. It can play fairly loud and is not distorting, but it starts to lose its intimacy, like the music is no longer being played in front of you. Good amp for a backyard party, but not so good for a fine-wine listener that likes to fill the house with fine wine - but it can fill a room OK. Like most any setup, an EQ would help. But hey - it's a sub $20 amp!Quality issues (on both amps) - the heatsink is loose on the board, and there are no circuits on the backside, so cannot tell what component is buried under it, so don't want to mess with it and risk damage. It does not get hot under about 5 min of heavy use (because it's not sinked well) but nothing else on the board got hot either. The volume pot on both also has a sticky area about 50% of the range - it moves thru it, and volume is not affected, but it just feels like there's corrosion or some other issue.

Good product

My 15 inches woofer is quite giving up surprising effect on this module overall 100 watt is not enough for 1k speaker but quite effective

This is the fourth unit:1. Ordered double 3116 board, got this, and it stopped working after 3 hours.2. Ordered this from seller "Allianz' and it was kicking into protection beyond 30% volume. Asked for replacement.3. Ordered TDA7498E from a different seller, who scammed me with one of these in a slipcover so it was smashed on arrival besides being the wrong item.4. Allianz sent a (working) replacement unit, which I'm reviewing here.The 7498, like every other amplifier, delivers a maximum power defined by the load impedance, supply voltage, and input signal. At 19V (which I'm using) you'll get just about 10W/ch into an 8 ohm load. The (very bad) Micca COVO-S are around this impedance. I'm using the combo a background internet radio system in a sunny and hot duplex, so Class AB amps (which are littered all over my house) are not an option. The input is provided by an IQAudio DAC+ on top of a RPi4 running Logitech Media Server and Squeezelite for playback.10W is sufficient for my application, though you might need more. For a 4 ohm load, 24V is the recommended maximum. The output stage is quite weak and cannot drive low impedance loads. The 7498E fixes that and that's why I wanted one of those to play with, but now you know that story...At 34V, this will put out about 45W per channel into an 8 ohm load at tolerable distortion levels, or about 70-75W into 6 ohms. This is a little less than the quoted 100W per channel, because that's at 10% THD. It might seem 75W is a lot less, but that's just about 2dB of usable output, so not significant.Also, ST chips tend to be extremely fragile. They don't have the manufacturing finesse of TI and you can't expect them to provide a similar level of quality. So you should really not deviate too much from the spec, it can't take any abuse.There are a few things you need to take care of.The output silkscreens are all wrong. The Left output is actually the Right output. And the positive wires are to be connected to the outer terminals (hence, mirror-imaged). If you connect them the way it's marked on the PCB, you'll have zero bass and the left and right channels will flip. Red is the right channel marker since the introduction of the RCA phone connector. Can't blame the Chinese 'designer' for getting this wrong, but you shouldn't.While the sketch in the product listing shows the correct speaker polarity, the Right channel input and output are towards the volume control (Left is on the left side and Right is on the right) when the board faces you). I believe this is an issue for all of these boards.Speaking of the sketch, the gain switch configuration is wrong on that front too. The lowest gain is when both switches are in 'OFF' position. The sketch shows exactly the opposite, another boo-boo.The standoffs supplied with the amp are too squishy and don't go all the way on without being deformed. This is the only reason I took off one star - I have hundreds of suitable standoffs, but you might not.The volume knob supplied with the kit shouldn't be pushed all the way in, else it fouls with the PCB and becomes difficult to turn. I don't use the knob myself but you might want to.The sound is usable, doesn't make me rush to switch it off. I briefly tried the amp with a pair of good speakers and it is not offensive but not good either. So you have to keep your expectations low. This thing cost less than a family dinner, so you can't expect anything great out of it. For the few hours I need it to run, I can live with it.

There are no screw to hold heat sink. There are two different amplifier board. Don’t get confused while ordering.Whenever you order please check pictures properly is there is two screw attach in heat sink or not

Sound quality is superb

Do not use it on car. Create a acceleration sound during play.