KICKER43VCWR122 12" CompR Series Sub 500W RMS 2 Ohm Vented Loaded Subwoofer Enclosure, 46CXA8001 Class D Amp Mono 1600W Peak Sub Amp and HA-AK4 Complete 4 Gauge 1800W Amp Install Kit - Refurbished

First off going to ding this with the only complaint I have.. the packaging for this is horrible.. one small row of bubble wrap is all that separated a regular cardboard box from all the contents.. if you love where your delivery drivers and companies don’t give two F’s then don’t be surprised if something arrives damaged.. mine did not although the corners of the cardboard were chewed up the box was still intact inside.Now on the the goodies.This amp is even smaller in hand then you incision and is a powerhouse! Plan on running a remote mess to it though cause even though it’s supposed to turn on with 2.5v or more input signal my installation it didn’t.. now I got to swap my kisloc for a kisloc2 cause I didn’t try the setup till all wires were ran and panels out back in and I’m not tearing it all back apart when I can simply spend $20 and get a remote lead off a different LOC instead.This little amp gets hit as hell! But it’s a powerhouse! Mine came certified to 916W but I think they missed on that by a little..Meters right at 49.8v with no load which would be just above the advertised 600w@4ohm but with the sub hooked up and pulling a 2ohm load im getting 39.2v with a 40hrz test tone which is more like 790watts lol.. 190 more then rated and I have no doubt if I were to run it at 1ohm I’d exclude that 916 factory certified and pull closer to 1000w maybe more. More then enough power ti run two of these subs at 1ohm all day!As for the sub… it’s a kicker in a kicker box that is tuned and sized appropriately for the sub.. I was worried it wouldn’t get as low as I wanted wo a bigger box but it does and it hits the clean drum beats as tight as a sealed box does.As for the wiring which is where I have seen most of the complaints from others saying it’s not a real 4ga blah blah.. maybe it’s not I didn’t mic it to find the exact gauge however it’s close enough by eye. The remote wire is worthless though. Plan to use a bit of the speaker wire for anything other low power wires.. the speaker wire could be a little thicker and some bullet connectors to inset into the push terminals would be a nice add ti the kit. But overall it pretty legit and complete wiring kit.. budget rca but I swapped out a pair of monster rca cables I’ve had laying around for years. But I was still able with the full 16’ cheap rca to get 5.5vots out of the 7.9v my LOC was generating. So ass cheap and crappy as they seem they do get the job done fairly well.. as I’m pulling well above the amps rates and certified power levels I’d say the wires are close enough to a real 4g it’s not worth worrying about. You’ll likely tax your factory electrical way before this wiring kit is an issue.The only ding to the wiring kit is.. it comes with a 150amp fuse.. for a 4ga 600-1000w kit this really should be at most a 100amp and within all reason an 80amp fuse is most appropriate for this tbh. I swapped my 150 for an 80 cause this amp has no fuse and I’m uncomfortable with the huge gap between what it should have and what it comes with. For most even a 50-60amp fuse would likely be enough as i have a slightly bigger alt and power supply in my full-size sedan then most other cars will have and I’m only able to pull 66-68amps and that’s running 190w over rated power lol.Last note..The gain on the amp is really finicky at flat 0- it goes from 28v at 4ohm to a 40v with just 1/10 of a turn. Another hair and it jumps to 48v and stays there all the way till about the last 1/8 turn then drops at the top back to 46v or so..I used both the low and high input settings and although it changed the range of where it moves it’s still just as sensitive. This is not an snap you’re going to tune by ear.. you’ll have to use a Dl1 or at min a multimeter to at least read the voltage cause you blink and you will miss the proper settings on the gain. Might be easier for someone running a cheap schoche or some other cheap Amazon LOC only pushing a true 1-2.5v output but at 5v this thing is super sensitive. I imagine with an LC2 it would be almost impossible to set the gains on when pushing a real 7-8v to it as you’ll likely be at 30v speaker output with gain at zero lol. But you’ll be able to turn the LOC down I guess to deal with that but idk why you would want to do that as it only taxes the amp more to use the lower input signals?All in all this is for the money the most complete kit I’ve seen in 30 years of car audio and quality parts not some cheap Chinese knock off crap that still falls into the same price range. The entry scar, sundown, DB packages can’t touch this for output and quality. You’d have to go up a couple tears in price to get compressible gear. Not even sure a skar evl is there tbh and then your just putting more drain on electrical to get equal output from less efficient sub and amp. I mean I got this thing in a full size caddy as a sgl 12 rated at 500 and it’s not doing any hair tricks but it will tingle your senses.. haven’t metered but definitely pushing just shy of 140bd in a huge car. Prob 138ish based on the tingle of neck hairs.. (odd way to meter db I know but again 30 years of doing this and I know what certain pressure levels feel like 🤷‍♂️) might have to give this to the daughter though and slap the dual 12 box in the caddy though cause the mids and highs can still slightly overpower this sub even at full tilt. But will be plenty for anyone wanting a little extra something a midsize sedan, sub or crossover vehicle for daily commutes..

I’m enjoying this sub so far. It was easy to set up and packs a punch for a single subwoofer. The install was easy and satisfies my bass needs. I did have to purchase one more terminal for the ground wire, but other than that it came with everything I needed.

Got this for my 2010 Ford Fusion and it sounds great and works great and is pretty easy to install just had a few small problems. I have blasted my speaker twice so you need to make sure the amplifier is at a good setting and doesn’t go too high. Otherwise it’s like $150 dollars for a new speaker so it isn’t the worst thing in the world.

Installed in my Camry and sounds great. I connected to my factory stereo so I only needed to get a converter since kit came with everything else. I even got about $3 back in change that was in my speaker box!

Perfect, great price.

The speaker blew about 30 seconds after being connected. It filled the car with smoke almost instantly after it was hooked up. I’ve been trying to contact someone since December 25th and no one will reply. What a terrible experience.I replaced the sub since no one ever contacted and now the amp is bad also. This is a terrible company to deal with

The sub box had some cosmetic damage. It came in a large low grade cardboard box with almost no sort of protective padding for the loose items in the box. Everything works and the sound is fantastic.

It hits hard. All the reviews saying that it didn’t work or didn’t hit hard are dumb af. I installed it in an 02 4runner. You can hear the mf comin down the street. Buy it. Run it. Enjoy.