Epoxy Putty, 200g Fast Repair AB Epoxy Putty, High-Strength Two-Part Filler for Metal, Wood, Tile, Ceramics, Multi-Purpose Sculpt Clay for Bonding, Repairing, Sculpting (White)

I repaired a damaged antique cast-iron urn with this product . The product was perfect for the purpose. It was easy to work with. It was quick drying. It plugged the hole perfectly. We’re very happy.

Wear the included blue gloves. This epoxy is not toxic but it's sticky and gooey and you'll have a tough time getting it off your hands! Part A is the most messy, but cutting off an equal part of Part B you can squish them together pretty well with the gloves (although it will try to stick to the gloves too.)I've had this life-sized head on a neck and base that needed improvement, sitting on a shelf with about 10 others in various stages of completion, so it was time to do something about it and find out how this Boncart epoxy works. I decided to change her top lip, move it up, and make her a happy grin instead of the more neutral expression she had. Cutting it out and digging enough space to raise the top lip, it was time to mix the epoxy putty to hold everything in place. These heads are mostly paper and glue on solid wood armatures, so the epoxy has something to grab on to because it's solid material that takes the most time to cut through. Epoxy has to be completely mixed and will harden with Approximately Equal portions. It doesn't have to be exact, but BETTER IF IT IS. The mixing is more important. After putting the 2 chunks of sticky stuff together you can work them into a ball, then flatten the ball, roll it up and turn it into another ball. It takes about 30 minutes to start to harden, so you have the time to mix it like that until it HAS to be uniform. 5 minutes isn't too long to mix because if it fails it's BECAUSE you didn't mix it enough. Some of it on the inside cavity below the nose and some on the upper lip and pushed in and up, remembering the top lip will come out just a little more forward. Some of the epoxy becomes the now visible teeth under the upper lip. I don't worry about details, just the big features. Later on when it's hardened it can be carved, rasped and ground to shape. The epoxy is bright white and it can be spread quite thin with the nice flat tool with the triangular sharp edge. The tool is a good one, flexible and light that makes moving the stuff around easy and making sharp edges in the epoxy, separating it into small parcels to be spread out.>>>It would be nice if the 2 parts each came in a SEPARATE color so mixing it would clearly show any non-mixed parts.<<<There's even a few pieces of rough sand paper discs for smoothing the hardened surfaces, but I've already got that covered. This kit is for doing it without any other tools, just what comes in the box. When you open the parts A & B there are extra plastic bags to wrap them back up. It might not dry out for a long time and still be good, but you don't want dust and other things to get into the mix. Remember, IT'S REALLY STICKY & GOOEY!(The Next Day) Epoxied areas are hard and smoother than they were. The epoxy sort of glazes over as it sets-up. This might not be good if you wanted some surface roughness or texture, but in this case it's mostly structural and will be covered by layers of thin paper/glue as required. Each of these heads has an expression and those that are successfully completed and good enough get sealed with acrylic or varnish and used to make a mold.

Works as stated.Easy to use

wow this worked fast and easy! We had some gouged out spots on the deck where a squirrel chewed,so I cut 2 small pieces of the putty,with gloves combined them,applied it to the damaged deck with the provided yellow plastic putty knife and let it cure (dry). Did not take long and it was hard as a rock. I was able to sand it lightly first with a metal tool, then a 100 grit sand paper...just lightly. we put a little stain on it to match the deck and it came out okay, but it did not take the varathane type stain very easily. it just pooled and laid on top and dried. So I put a light layer of beige wood putty over the top and stained that,which took the stain easily. All fixed. Now all we have to do is put a thin layer over the entire deck and it should blend in nicely. This putty is very easy to work with and dries quickly. I would recommend it for small jobs and the amount you receive should last on several small projects. I plan on using it to mend some other ceramic stuff I broke,we'll see how that comes out. I highly would suggest wearing the latex gloves included,so you don't get it on your hands. I can definitely see how this would be a nightmare to remove if it dries on the skin. Goo gone might get it off though, but it's always a good idea to not put toxic chemicals on the skin since it can be absorbed.

Kit comes with gloves, paddle and the 2 epoxy parts. It's soft enough to pinch or cut off just the right amount, and then easy to work and shape. Repaired a smooth plastic hinge with a small glob of it and it's held up to daily use for weeks.

The corner on my fiberglass quater panel by wheel well was starting to crack off.I used this putty to re-enforce the back side corner. Hardened perfect!Did exactly what I expected it to do.

I use this on one of my gnomes that I have for outside that it fell and broken. I just had to use a little bit it was easy to mix. It went a long way and now my gnome is back outside, looking like it never was in pieces!

Great for non-wood things. Fries pretty rough and it’s incredibly hard to sand. If you need something strong and sturdy and are not concerned with appearance- this is good.