Sightmark Pistol Boresight with Red Laser

I purchased the 45 ACP and 9MM boresights several years ago, which worked perfectly until this year when I started experiencing several issues. I reached out to customer support, hoping they could offer some advice. Instead, they informed me that their products are covered for a lifetime and recommended that I submit a Return Merchandise Authorization (RMA) to have the two units inspected.I sent the units in, and they returned them in like-new condition.The customer support was unbelievably great. If there were a sixth star, Sightmark would have earned it!

I've used this to try and align my optics. It appears to be accurate, but now I just need to go to the range and test it with live rounds to see how accurate it truly is.

I love the idea but there does not seem t be any QA for this product. I received two sets and neither laser was aligned corrrectly. Unless the laser is aligned perfectly within its housing, the laser will not point straight. In my photos you can see how you must check your laser before a) using it to zero your weapon and b) before giving a review or getting rid of the packaging.1) Remove the barrel from the weapon and clamp it to a flat surface (I used a metal table leg.)2) Mark part of the back of the laser and consider that part “up” for now.3) Insert the boresight into the barrel wth the mark in the up position4) 5+ yards away mark with tape and a dot of ink where the laser hits a wall (this will be the reference point)5) return to the laser and carefully rotate the boresight (or remove and reinsert) so that the mark you made in step 2 is in the opposite position (down if it was up).6) walk back to the wall with the tape and see f the laser dot matches up woth the existing mark.7) Repeat steps 3-6 as many times as you want to validate the result. As long as the dot is in the same position when the mark on the back of the boresight is in a specific position you will know that the barrel has not moved during the process of you removing or spinning the boresight.The point to all of this is that for the boresight (any boresight) to work properly the red dot on the wall should always be in the same exact position no matter how the boresight is rotated in the chamber/barrel. If the red dot does move (in my case it moved about an inch for both boresights) it means any “zero” you were to get by using this thing will be off.. and not even close.If you don’t check your boresight like this and you are still getting OK groups after zeroing your sights there is a good chance that you are not shooting consistently or that you are cheating yourself out of even tighter groups.This test only takes a few minutes and is a great way to ensure your boresight actually works properly. Unfortunately for me, after two separate shipments, each product failed the test. :(Also, if there was some way to adjust the alignment of the laser and it’s housing I am confident that using my testing method we would be able to align the laser and have a great boresight. Unfortunately, it didn’t seem like the tiny screws actually did anything but maybe hold the laser inside of the housing

I've been tempted to get some sort of laser boresight for a while, and the acquisition of an H&R Handi-Rifle in .357 finally pushed me over the edge. There's a lot to like about this unit- and a few irritating things as well. Let's start with what I like about it.First of all, it's really easy to use. Insert the batteries, slip it into the chamber, point the weapon at a distant target, and align the red dot with the sight or scope. Simple. It took me less than a minute to get my rifle ready for the range. Second, each unit is individually aligned- you can see the alignment screws used to do this. And last, the price is right. For not much more than the cost of a box of ammunition (more or less) you can align your gun so it will at least put those first shots on paper.The bits I don't like:First: The .38/.357 is a rimmed cartridge- but there's no rim on this boresight. In my .38 S&W K-frame, it slid in until it reached the end of the chamber in the revolver, protruding just far enough to pull it out when I wanted to remove it. In the Ruger Blackhawk, it disappeared into the cylinder, as the cylinder is bored more deeply; luckily it slid out easily. But in my H&R rifle, it disappeared into the chamber and wouldn't come out when I tilted the barrel upwards; it had to be removed with a cleaning rod. Putting a rim on the brass piece that screws into the back would have added a negligible amount to the cost of manufacture but would have made it much easier to use. Second: There's no on-off switch, and battery drain is high. Turning it on and off requires the insertion and removal of two extremely small batteries- easy enough to do at home, but at the outdoor range one or more pieces are liable to disappear. A simple switch could have been implemented a number of ways. Last, the fabric case has a pocket to hold the batteries that's open at one end, and doesn't really hold the batteries very securely. A snap-open plastic case would be more secure, and perhaps cheaper to make as well. For now I'm keeping mine in the bubble packaging it arrived in, but I plan on finding a small translucent polypropylene box I can store the boresight and several spare batteries in it.But the positives outweigh the negatives. This is a very useful piece of gear that's easy to use and cheaper than any decent traditional optical boresight. With the shortage of ammunition and reloading components today, it's a good tool for conserving ammunition, too.