CrystaLac Brite Tone Polyurethane Instrument Finish, High Solids Non-Yellowing Super-Hard & Scratch Resistant Clear Coat for Musical Instruments, for Wood Metal Plastic & Glass, 8-Fl.Oz., Clear Gloss

100% pleased. Not overly viscous, no odor and water clean up- what’s not to like? It is a rather pale murky color in the container, really makes you question whether it will be clear once dry.Dried clear and hard. If you’re wanting a shiny professional finish this product will not disappoint. If you’re wanting a thick finish like traditional epoxy you’ll need to apply several coats. IMO this does not make it undesirable considering all the benefits it offers. Dries fast so if you were to bump the piece soon after applying it’s likely you will not ruin the finish. To apply additional coats follow directions.I make items from polymer clay. Polymer clay is notorious for interacting with adhesives and coatings then becoming sticky. This has yet to do this which is wonderful. I can’t use epoxy due to allergic reaction and UV resins are not always the best choice for a piece. I’ve used this for earring pieces and literally dipped the item in then monitored them for the drips and then wiped them off until the excess had run off. This has also been great for painting onto item which are larger. I can’t use apply as much or little as needed, something an epoxy or UV won’t do.

After seeing so many people use this as an alternative to resin, I thought I would give it a try. It is more runny than I thought it would be, so you have to be very careful to just use small amounts and do several layers. I do resin pens with glitter and it took 9 thin layers. I did have some pooling at the bottom of the pen also. I applied it with a rubber finger tip at first but switched to a soft small brush after pooling. It helped a little but I still had it. The price is high, so after using I just switched to mini wax polyurethane. In comparison the pens look the same, same issue on pooling and same amount of coats. However, it was a lot cheaper and you get a larger amount. This product is good, but not cost effective for me. I will probably still use it, but maybe on smaller projects.

I hand finished a guitar body with this product. After proper sanding, grain filling and sealing I applied 10 coats with a sponge brush. allowed 1 day per coat (10 days) dry time for proper curing. Level wet sanded with high grit papers and rubbing compounds. Achieved a mirror like high gloss professional result all by hand. Loved working with this product. Although, I will probably go with 8 coats next time.

Great product! Does exactly as it says!

Does the job beautifully, though its consistency is thin almost like water, so you do need many coats (which they tell you in advance) and no shortcuts - if you use too much of it at once it ripples or cracks when it dries. So, you need to just commit to many layers and follow instructions.However, the result is well worth the patience, not to mention the crucial non-toxicity, which is what sold me on this. The material does self-level very well. Dries super-shiny and durable, and makes colors pop a bit, especially glittery/metallic elements.The only thing I didn't like is - once I opened the can, despite re-sealing very tightly and storing in a dark closet, the material began to turn yellow. It took a few months to really see it, but by now it's VERY visible, and the same problem happened with the matte version. It's not a serious problem because you honestly can't see it with a few thin layers, but if the substance pools even a tiny bit in a corner of the object you're coating - you do see a dark yellow.Considering the health factor and other positives, it's a minor disadvantage.

I’ve used this on a couple of guitars. It works well. I’ve noticed some reviewers are pretty scant on the curing time (10 days or less).This is from the Crystalac site:Cure Time: Since it is waterborne and doesn’t rely on harsh chemicals, Brite Tone can take up to 30 days to fully cure.Personally I let it cure for 6 weeks.There is some difference of opinion regarding dry vs wet sanding (it’s like a Ford vs Chevy debate; heavy on opinion but light on facts). The first guitar I wet sanded after 6 weeks with no issues. The second one I dry sanded after 6 weeks and ended up sanding through. I have it now refinished and hanging for another 6 weeks after which I will wet sand it.The general reason for dry sanding is that this is a water based product and the water in the sandpaper could dilute it. To me this is nonsense. If it is cured it is cured. And I (as have others) have found it wet sands just fine.

Very good product. It did just what was expected. Very good quality

No fumes, easy application (with an HVLP spray gun) and cleanup plus a relatively quick drying time