Energy Suspension8.10103G Rack and Pinion Bushing Set for 4WD

Fit my 2004 Tacoma 4x4 5spd 2.7 L perfectly. Easy installation also.

The washer/space hole was too small for the bolt in my 1999 4Runner SR5. I did not have drill bits large enough to widen the hole (slightly larger than my largest 1/2" drill bit). I used a Dremel with a small "sand paper drum" bit (or two) and about 20 minutes to remove enough material for it to fit. There is another YouTube video that mentions this problem too.The plastic pieces could get started in the hole with strong hand force. The larger horizontal (22 mm) needed mild/medium hammer taps to completely seat the plastic. The smaller vertical (19 mm) went in with similar levels of hand force but completely seated with hand force. I used Dawn detergent as a lubricant. "Timmy the Tool Guy" on YouTube suggests silicone grease which I didn't have. I don't think petroleum (normal) grease is a good idea because it will absorb into the plastic and soften it.Neither inner sleeve could be installed with hand force. The horizontal was started with a hammer but then that stopped working. I used a C-clamp to press it in the rest of the way. The vertical couldn't be started with a hammer (just awkward vertical hammering where you had nothing to hammer against). I used the big C-clamp to start it and push it all the way in.One trick picked up by from the Timmy the Tool Man video is how to get the vertical bolt to line up when mounting the rack back on the frame. He references the manufacturer (Energy Suspension) saying to start tightening the far left and far right mounts (squeezing it back to position). That worked very well, and I put the vertical bolt back in the hole and waited for it to drop. Perfect time to get nice thread alignment.There's also a trick in the videos about removing bolts for mounts that hold the brake lines to the frame up front. I removed both (12 mm) bolts. One down and under the alternator (between the engine and battery). One almost centered below the engine fan.You can do all of this without listening to Timmy the Tool Man about disconnecting the tie rods (even if it is in the directions). I did it with both tires off the ground (another guide video) but you can almost definitely do it if the if the left tire is turned 50% to the right before you just lift the left tire.

Amazon INCORRECTLY states that this part: 8.10103G does not fit the 1997 4runner.After doing some internet searches and then looking at the Energy Suspension website, I found that this model does fit the 4runner.The G suffix is for Black, S would be for RedFrom: [...]4Runner 2 & 4WD1996-02 Front rack & Pinion Bushing Set 8.10103PICKUP 4WD (EXCEPT T-100 & Tundra)2001-04 Front rack & Pinion Bushing Set 8.10103One suggestion before you install. After you remove the old bushings and bolts.Test your bolts with the new washer and metal sleeves. Some people have reported that the washer and or sleeves are not wide enough for the bolts. In my case, on the largest bolt that holds the largest bushing, my bolt was a bit corroded, so I cleaned it up with a wire brush on a grinder.I then tried inserting it into the supplied washer and it did not fit all the way, I cleaned it up some more and it fit. I got lucky because I did not test with the metal bushing sleeves, but it fit, just barely. So again before you put everything back together, make sure your bolts will fit through the new parts.I'm very happy with the results and the quality of the bushing set.My 4runner has 197K, and there was some slop in the steering, if I jacked up the front end and rotated a front tire side to side, I could see the rack system moving in the old bushings. With the new bushings there is no play.Here are a few nice links on replaying the bushing if you have a toyota.[...][...][...]Torqe specs are 141lbs for the large bolt (Driver), 123lbs for the middle and passenger side.Steering rack horizontal mounting bolt: 141 ft-lbsSteering rack vertical center mounting bolt: 123 ft-lbsSteering rack mounting clamp: 123 ft-lbs-andy

Most people say you have to disconnect tie rods or stab links or steering wheel etc.... Not saying it should happen for everyone but i didn't have to remove not a damn thing other than 2 bolts that hold the pressure lines and that was it. At first i was a little leary on changing these on my 2000 Toyota Tundra 4x4 SR5 regular cab but i just took my time and had them swapped in 15 minutes from start to end torqueing the nuts and bolts. Very easy install and what a difference it made in my truck. Awesome bushings , SOLID.P.S. Some also recommend greasing and i dont i just cleanded the bores they go in with fine emory cloth. I dont like the idea of the grease in there

Installed on a 1997 Toyota 4wd 4runner. Be sure to buy some silicone grease to cover them during install. These took all of the slop out of the steering. I used a balljoint press tool to remove the old bushings, but you could probably just drill out some of the old rubber bushings and bash them out with a hammer and a large socket. I removed my sway bar, disconnected the drivers side tie rod, unbolted the rack & pinion, and completed the repair on the vehicle. Before you begin the repair, check out your sway bar bushings - if they are worn, you might as well replace those at the same time since you'll be removing them anyways.

Fit & worked as advertised.

These are the 3rd time I purchased them. Each time was for a different 4runner. They work great tightening up the slop in the steering. Can be a pain to install but well worth it as always.

Not super easy to install. Difficult to remove the old bushings without removing the whole rack, which maybe I should have done. Eliminated the slop in my steering which allowed my 2002 Tacoma to be aligned. The rack was slipping back and forth about 1/4” before I replaced the bushings. I am unaware of other kits that allow you to replace the bushings without totally removing the rack