Fuel Check Valve Rebuild Kit

Solved my leaking gas line issue

Leakage is fixed.

Item received in good condition

Bottom o-ring didn’t fit my bike. “02” Heritage. Don’t know the measurements on it but it was a little to big in diameter and a little to small in thickness. So if you order it for that year model be prepared to find a 10x14x2 mm. I bought a o-ring kit from Orileys

The hardest part is removing/reinstalling the tank if you should take that route. Had the new kit installed in 5 minutes with a few picks.

Made the job very easy to do.

So all those reviews you've read that warn you not to do this? YOU SHOULD REALLY FOLLOW THAT ADVICE! YOU THINK that this kit will save you money? IT REALLY DOESN'TLEARN FROM MY MISTAKES!!! So it's been a LOT of years since I turned wrenches as a pro! Anyone hiring? I'm remembering once again why I burned out as a nurse!! At least steel doesn't cause you 9 kinds of hell!!! I was BMW cert anyway, non cert HD. Plus last bike was a carbed Fat Boy and now I'm on an 04 Dyna LR w/ EFI.A FEW THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW FIRST...you can buy at a MAJOR retailer (and yes their shipping fees suck!) a BRAND NEW CHECK VALVE with the submerged FUEL HOSE that connects to your pump for roughly twice the cost of this kit. While this turned into a bit of an adventure and made me remember why I SO ENJOY turning wrenches, I REALLY WISH I would have realized a few things UP FRONT!BEFORE YOU EVEN TOUCH YOUR CHECK VALVE, YOU MUST OPEN YOUR TANK (by removing your instrument bezel/panel) AND DISCONNECT the high pressure fuel hose from the pump, OK? BECAUSE if you just jump ahead and try to remove the check valve without d/c the fuel hose inside the tank, you will SEVER the fuel line (ESP IF IT'S AN OLDER MODEL!!! The hoses get BRITTLE!!!)IF YOU STILL INSIST ON CONTINUING LIKE I DID (I STRONGLY RECOMMEND YOU DON'T). Once you have the submerged hose d/c, and you remove your check valve, DO NOT REMOVE THE SNAP RING THAT HOLDS YOUR TINY 2 mm (I think) bearings in place that are solely responsible for HOLDING YOUR QUICK DISCONNECT IN PLACE. IT WILL NOT HELP YOU OUT AT ALL FOR ANY OF THE REBUILD!!! WHY? Because if you remove that snap ring and start digging out the old O-rings, those teeny tiny little suckers will POP RIGHT OUT!!!! SO DON'T TAKE THAT APART!!!THE NEXT ISSUE IS ONCE YOU HAVE THE NEW SPRING & actual valve back in place, you have to use the smaller O-ring to hold that tiny assembly in place. THAT IS THE SUPER EASY PART!!! IT IS THE DAD-GUM LOWER O-RING THAT WILL GIVE YOU NIGHTMARES! OK, well maybe that's is a bit dramatic! BUT, IT WILL I ASSURE YOU CAUSE YOU AT LEAST A HEADACHE TO SEAT THAT LOWER O-RING! There is a tool you can buy just for that but it will run anywhere from $60 to $100! So even if you run a shop, it is STILL WAY CHEAPER to get on one of those giant bike parts dealers (mine was the one with the "&" in it) and buy a new valve WITH A BRAND NEW HOSE AND CONNECTOR (to the pump).THE CHANCES OF YOU DOING THIS IN A SHOP AS A PRO ARE SLIM TO NONE! SERIOUSLY!!! So paying for the tool seems foolhardy unless you have tons o' money to burn! You can simply pay appx $30 (plus shipping) and save yourself SO MUCH TIME AND HASSLE!!! You will still have to remove the instrument strip and disconnect that fuel line no matter WHAT YOU DO!!!Did I mention that lower O-ring? OMG!LISTEN TO ALL OF US TELLING YOU THAT YOU SHOULD JUST GET THAT NEW CHECK VALVE WITH THE ATTACHED HOSE!!! OH and if you do accidentally sever that fuel line? GOOD LUCK GETTING IT BACK ON THE VALVE STEM!!! You will have to heat the hose to make it happen. GASOLINE people!

Replaced oem fuel o rings in HD 1/2 the price of HD part