BOSCHSP0F000025 Sport II 2-5/8" Tachometer (Black Dial Face, Black Bezel)

This unit is great. It made a huge improvement in knowing what is going on with the classic car's motor. It can be a diagnostic tool too. We tightened the base a little to fit our 2" diameter Lokar (?) steering column and it clamped up tight. I like how the bracket attaches to the rear of the gauge too. It works well and consistently.

Got this for my c10 Chevy and it was easy to install and works great. They give you plenty of wire to work with and the mounts.

Good looking general purpose tachometer. This review might be a little long as I'm also including brief how-to points for my truck. I installed this on my 1990 Chevy C1500 truck. It has a 350 V8 and manual trans but no tach. How can I have fun driving a V8 powered, stick shift truck without a tach?I didn't need or want a big racer boy tach and this Bosch 2-5/8" tach is just the right size for column mounting. This Bosch tach comes with the connectors most likely needed for installation except a hose clamp to attach the tach to the steering column. I assume since not every install is going to mount to the column, they leave it up to the installer.Installation was relatively straightforward even though I did take a day or so to test and think out the process I was going to need. I also researched U-tube vids to see where to connect the green sensor wire. Which is the unused white wire coming off the front of the distributor. I drilled a small hole a few inches above where the accelerator cable goes thru the firewall as this area had most room and clearance. A rubber grommet is also included to run the sensor wire thru the firewall. I used fuse taps to connect the power and illumination wires in the fuse panel, which happened to a few inches from the steering column. As I was connecting the power wires, leaving the ground wire for last, I noticed the tach had power. I figure since the tach is now attached to the steering column which is metal, it became grounded. I still connected the tach ground wire anyway.The photo of the dash with the tach looks like the view of one of the factory gauges behind it is blocked but it's not. The pic is a close up. When I'm actually sitting behind the wheel, I'm up high enough to see the gauge.Like some other reviewers have noted, the tach light is pretty dim. It is adequate for general night time driving but I may upgrade the light later. One other thing- the rev pointer is on the OUTSIDE of the gauge face! This part wasn't clear to me in the instructions. I had been trying to twist the whole bezel like twisting a empty beer can to move the pointer when my fingers accidentally touched the pointer and it moved. Well duh! Probably everyone else in the world knows this except me but just in case there's others, that's how to reposition the pointer. You're welcome!I like this tach, it looks good and fits in with the dash and seems to function well.I'm sure most people will be satisfied too.

Perfect, easy instructions, wires were long enough, works great !

easy to wire , works like it should

Tachometer worked great nearly every day, seem very accurate and responsive for 4 months... then this morning then the needle went all over the place, then intermittently worked, then died completely. Kind if disappointed. Really liked this tachometer. Especially it's compact size.

Bought this for my ‘66 VW Beetle, perfect size for the limited space I’m working in. Great instructions, column mount bracket worked great, everything I needed was included, works perfect.

Update: Device failed after three months of use. It now rotates counter-clockwise when I start the engine, settles at 5500 rpm, even though the idle is ~ 800 rpm. It doesn't move when I press on the accelerator, and it slowly drifts to 4500 rpm. I've checked all connections, they are good. I even opened up the gauge to see if the wires had de-soldered from the printed circuit board; they had not.Installation instructions were very easy to follow. I already had an easily accessible hole in my firewall, so cable routing was simple. It is best that you have a wiring diagram of your vehicle on hand, as these instructions direct you to attach certain tachometer wires to other wires which a) are powered only when the key is in the 'run' position, and b) are only on when your dash lights come on. The latter is only necessary if you want the tachometer light to work.I compared the accuracy of this to the method I was using before, which was to use a reflective strip on the crankshaft pully illuminated with a light which also senses the reflection. As this tach takes the signal directly from the coil (you have to select the number of cyliders with a switch on the back of the tach), I assum this is more accurate. However, they both gave the same answer, if anyone is interested to know.