Corporation 31406CWK 30 Amp 6-circuit Pro/Tran Transfer Switch Kit for Generators (7500 Watts).,Gray

Had one too many power failures and decided to invest in a generator for our house. While this supports 6 circuits it installed super easy. Instructions were clear and easy to understand through out the mounting and wiring steps. Even with minimal wiring knowledge after watching their video, I tackled the entire install in just about an hour. Already used it twice in a month since installing. My daughter’s bigger fear is when we lose power for some reason. She can now hit the remote on the generator and then flip the switches and she won’t even know the difference! Had everything needed included and I feel is a great value! If I had to do it again I would go with the 10 circuit as I had more watts available than I thought!

This Reliance Pro/Tran 6 circuit Transfer switch kit paired well with my Aferiy 3840Wh Portable power station. I used a TT-30p male plug to 4 prong L14-30 female receptacle to connect to the 30-amp cord that came with kit to the 30-amp RV outlet on the backup battery. It has been thoroughly tested my me in case of a power outage and passed with flying colors :). Good length on the wires. Good instructions. I had no issues installing the product once I had everything planned out. The delivery was delayed for almost a month. But that was offset by what I received and how well it works.

I cannot say enough good things about this product and this company. I purchased this transfer switch in July of 2014 to go along with my new Westinghouse WH6500E portable generator. I am reasonably handy, and have done a small amount of electrical projects before, but by no means am I a professional. I did all the setup, installation, and wiring myself. My setup includes the portable generator with a 30 amp power cord feeding into a Reliance Controls power inlet box mounted on the house. I then installed permanent 10 gauge building wire between the power inlet box outside and the transfer switch mounted inside next to my panel. For the most part it was all very straightforward and I expected to have no problems. After initial setup I got the generator running to do a quick test. Long story short, there was a problem, and I could not run off the generator power. I struggled for 6 months to figure out what was wrong. I did various tests, but did not want to break down and pay an electrician, so I continued to hunt for the issue myself. After 6 months, I finally decided to call Reliance customer support. I was impressed to get connected to a very helpful lady from Racine, WI. Imagine that, good ole US of A customer support! She was extremely helpful, and was happy to give me her email address so I could send pictures of my setup for diagnostic purposes. We communicated via phone and email over the course of 2 days, and she quickly helped determine my issue after having me run 2 tests. The problem was entirely mine, the Reliance Controls transfer switch works flawlessly. In fact, the problem I had was a clamp that was too tight on my building wire, and was causing a short. I had arc marks on the transfer switch due to my wiring short. That did not phase the Reliance Controls transfer switch at all. The breakers on the switch and the generator worked as they should. Everything is fixed and working correctly now, thanks to the great customer service at Reliance Controls. This product is extremely robust and well designed. I would recommend this to anyone! A couple of lessons learned from my experience. Professional electricians would obviously already know this stuff, but I was learning as I went. 1) Be careful not to over tighten cable clamps, it's easy to do. 2) The power inlet cord gave me some issues. You need to make sure you really get the cord at the inlet box pushed in and turned as far as it will go. It may take a slight bit of force, but if you don't, you may only get one side of the power coming through. 3) The instructions are slightly misleading for the wiring of the watt meters in the transfer switch. Make sure you only have 1 side of the black wire and 1 side of the red wire passing through each of the watt meters.

This kit is nice. You cannot beat the price if you were to get all that's included separately. Again its a very nice kit but I'm not so sure about the well built comments I read in some of the other reviews. I installed mine in about two hours. I turn back on the power feeding the six circuits that I'm feeding with the transfer switch and one by one I flipped each switch on the transfer switch to the line position. Once all of the six circuits were on I then checked around the house to see that everything had power and worked. Well, I found that my furnace and one of the two bedroom circuits were dead. You know DEAD, as in No power, dark and cold. WTF. So I'm thinking to myself, ok Ive been working for one of the largest companies on ALL OF EARTH as a electrician building industrial equipment for the last 21 years and I'm very confident that I didn't make any mistakes. But, I'm only human. So I checked all Of my connections and found that all was good. Next I made sure that none of the breakers just needed reset and found that this too was ok. Next out of frustration like you would an old tv I gave the side of the transfer switch a good smack. Well not so funny to me as it may sound to you readers but that worked for the bedroom circuit. "LIGHT ARE ON IN THE BEDROOM" my wife gave a yell. OK I don't know about the rest of you, but this to me was not acceptable. It did however give me a clue as too what was wrong. Everybody say it together now "SOMETHING IN THERE IS LOOSE". I Turned off the power to the SIX circuits feeding through the switch and removed the two screws in the case to try and see what was amiss. THERE IT WAS PLAIN AS DAY. ONE OF THE WIRES WAS NOT EVEN PUSHED ONTO ITS POST ON ONE OF THE SWITCHES AND THE OTHER WAS ABOUT TO COME OFF(bedroom circuit). Firstly, why are all of these connection made with just push on connections. We call these "fast on connection" at work. Secondly, and more importantly why are they not on there termination points. WHATS WITH THIS CRAP. I SHOULDN'T HAVE TO BE TAKING EQUIPMENT APART TO MAKE REPAIRS TO IT. Anyway, I pushed the two wires onto there termination points and closed the box up and turned the power back on. TA DA! everything worked. Are you all still with me? There's more. Anyway, an hour later the family and I return from getting lunch and wouldn't you know it. Both of the bedroom circuits are not working. I found that the two bedroom arc fault breakers in my main breaker panel were tripped. This to me automatically indicated to me that Something is loose and is, are you ready for this? Something is ARCING. Arcing is bad. Arcing leads to electrical fires under the right conditions. BUT, My arc fault breakers did there job. So again I open the transfer switch to see what was loose. I found that everyone of the push on or fast on connections were loose and needed some attention. One by one I had to remove and with needle nose pliers make all of these connections tighter by slightly closing or crushing each of the push on crimps. This is NOT something anyone should need to do on any new piece of equipment EVER. But since I was really not into the idea of tearing it all out and returning it to Amazon for a new one, only to receive another half assed unit from a company that's apparently not that concerned with quality. I decided to just make the repairs. And to add insult to injury I was disappointed to see that this shabby work was made in the USA according to the box. COME ON GUYS WERE BETTER THAN THAT. I would have expected this type of work from elsewhere on the planet. ANYWAY, that all having been said. I would have giving this Kit a five star if it weren't for these wiring issues. Its a nice kit with all that it comes with for the money. Easy to install with some basic electric knowledge and a few tools. I guess I would recommend this kit as I hope this is just an isolated case. I did write a lengthy e-mail to Reliance controls support team about my issue two weeks ago and as of this writing and have not received even a peep from them. Mmmmm. OK Ive said enough, or to much, you decide.

I just completed installation of my ProTran 6-circuit transfer switch. I found the wiring of the switch to the 1980's-era power panel to be quick and straightforward. Same for the wiring between the transfer switch and the outside power inlet box. Physically connecting the wires from the switch to the panel circuit breakers took less than 30 minutes, and from the switch to the power inlet box less than 10 minutes. However, the whole project took me a day and a half. My power panel is sunken, and the face is flush mounted with the garage wall, thus a straight connection between the wall-mounted switch and the sunken panel was not possible. I had to remove sheet rock from below the panel, run the conduit from the wall-mounted switch to the panel from underneath, and then patch the hole. Also, I wanted the power inlet box to be attached to the outside brick, and opposite of where the switch is installed inside the garage. I purchased some PVC conduit, a stress relief connector, and a small elbow box and ran building wire through the conduit, through the sheet rock, and through a hole I drilled in the mortar between bricks. I had to patch a little around the hole in the sheet rock to fill in a slight gap where the conduit entered. I also used a stress reliever where the wire entered the back of the inlet box, and concrete connectors to attach the back of the inlet box to the brick. Because my power panel breakers were not all identified, I took the time to verify which breaker provided power to which part of the house. My biggest challenges: 1. Working with building-grade solid copper wiring. This wire is very hard to manipulate if you cut it too short or too long. Too short and you may not be able to get all the wires to go where they need to. Too long and you may not be able to cram them into the switch box or inlet box. It took me quite a while to get this right, especially at the power inlet box. I finally figured out that cutting the white neutral wire a wee bit shorter than the others made it easier to press the inlet box front cover closed. 2. Attaching the power inlet box to the brick wall. It comes in two pieces, the back plate and the front cover. If you do not allow for space between the back plate and the wall, you will not be able to get the front cover back on. My solution was to loosely attach the back plate to the brick and then use expanding foam to provide weatherproofing and support -- and a gap. The foam provides firm support and keeps the box away from the brick just enough to attach the front cover. 3. Getting the correct adapter. The transfer switch comes with a 10-foot, 30 amp, L14-30R power cord (4 male prongs and 4 female plug slots: Neutral, Ground, Hot1 and Hot2). My Predator 3500 generator comes with a 3-slot power plug, so I had to find an adapter. I ordered a TT-30P to L14-30R adapter only to find out later that such an adapter comes in two versions: 1. bridged, and 2. un-bridged. In my ignorance I got the un-bridged. A bridged (or "tied") adapter connects Hot1 and Hot2 together so that they end up providing 120v power to both sides of the transfer switch, i.e., all six circuits. An un-bridged adapter powers Hot1 but leaves Hot2 dead. The result is that half of the transfer switch circuits remain dead. So, I ordered the bridged Reliance Controls AC3130 adapter to fix that problem. Kudos: To resolve the adapter problem, I called Reliance Controls customer support. After only two or three rings Jane answered the phone. She was very pleasant and helpful. I briefly explained my problem, and she immediately identified the bridged/unbridged issue and suggested a couple of remedies, one of which included the AC3130. I could not have been more pleased. Conclusion: This was a pleasant installation project, but had its challenges, none of which was overwhelming. For someone with moderate mechanical and problem-solving skills, and who can carefully work around electricity, I would say this project fit comfortably into the DIY category. I highly recommend the Reliance ProTran transfer switch kit.

Purchased this so that I could use my Ioniq 5 as a back-up battery for my home during a power outage. I hired my neighbor who is an electrician to help me install the device. The device comes with 6 transfer switches, 4 are 15 amp and 2 are 20 amp. With the device, I am able to power many of the important areas of my home during a power outage using my Ioniq 5's V2L system using a cable that converts the L14-30 to household cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q42XPZT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title. The device also has 2 meters so that you can see how much load is being pulled from the devices. It is split so that the left side reads the left 3 (ABC) and the right side reads the right 3 (DEF). The device also comes with an L14-30 extension cord which appears to be pretty heavy duty, flex to house the cables and some L brackets. The device comes pre-wired (with 12 awg wire) so the only thing you have to do is wire it up to the home. Both the black and red wires are labeled AAA,BBB,CCC, etc. to match the switches on the transfer panel. The labeling is a little bit on the small side and can be a little difficulty to read. I have a few minor complaints. The first is that my electritian got confused, there was a sticker which was wrapped around the cables which had some instructions on it regarding the cables. Unfortunately we lost the sticker during installation to verify what that label said, however it caused him to install the cables in the opposite manner on the first attempt. When we did this, several of the several circuit breakers on the main panel (including ones not attached to the transfer switch) would trip when switching from Line to Grid. We ultimately consulted the diagram in the instruction manual which correctly labeled which wire goes where. Again, we lost the sticker, so I couldn't tell you whether it was the label that was incorrect, or just that the electrian mis-interpreted the label. Another minor complaint is that I had the outlet installed directly onto the switch, but when I installed it with the lid, the hinge was sitting over the DEF switches. I'm not sure if it actually interfered with their functionality or if this could be solved by flipping the hinge in a different orientation. Overall, this product works as intended. I was able to use my Ioniq 5's V2L capabilities to power parts of the house, saving a lot of money on batteries / generators. For those of you with electric cars, this is an awesome solution!

I ordered this transfer switch to pair with a Generac GP5500 generator. I liked the idea of avoiding all those extension cords and using the house wiring to run what was needed at the time. For example, we have oil-fired heat and hot water, so for a very reasonable 600 watts each we can ride out a power outage in the dead of winter with little inconvenience. However, those two appliances are hard wired - very impractacle with extension cords, but a breeze with this transfer switch. The instructional DVD is great (even so, read the instruction booklet.) The kit has almost everthing you need: I still needed to purchase some Tapcon screws for mounting the boxes, and 25 ft. of 10/3 building wire for connecting the outlet box to the switch, and you'll need a couple 3/4" cable clamp connectors to mount the building wire (they're cheap and Reliance really could have just tossed a couple in the box for convenience, but if you don't have them make sure you pick them up when you buy the building wire.) Installation is pretty easy - an intermediate DIYer should have no trouble. Just follow the directions, don't overthink it, and proceed in the order Reliance tells you and you'll be done in a couple hours. I had the opportunity to use the switch when our power was cut for 6 hours a week ago, and it worked almost perfectly. By almost, I mean that the watt meters didn't seem to accurately reflect that wattage being drawn from the generator - the readings all seemed much lower than they should have been. But this is not a deal breaker by any standard - with lights, freezer, fridge, heat, hot water, TV, internet, computers, etc. all available during the outage, I guess I can live with sketchy meter readings.

Excellent product, although the kit comes complete with do it yourself instructions, we had the unit installed by a licensed electrician for $150. This was to ensure we had no issues with our home insurance policy. We combined the transfer switch with a 4000watt generator we found on Amazon that was the only model that offered free shipping to Hawaii. The switch works perfectly and comes with meters that monitor the power usage (watts) as appliances are turned on. If I had known just how effective the switch was before purchasing, I would have bought the 10 switch kit and an 8000watt generator. The kit comes with the interface power cable and outside wall outlet that connects your generator to the transfer switch. The installation was passive and the electrician only had to turn the power panel breaker for each of the 6 inputs I selected off during the installation. This is a must for every homeowner. We recently had a wind storm that knocked out power for a few days (the utility company conveniently decided to go on strike the first day of the storm). We were the only house on our block that had true back up power to our home. We ran 2 small freezers, a large refrigerator, house lights, home security system, and automatic garage door system without any issues. We love you Amazon and highly recommend patrons to shop online @ Amazon.com!!!