Energy Suspension 4.2121G Front Spring Bushing Set for Ford 4WD

These worked well. I suggest that you take out the passenger leaf spring and completely remove the passenger side IFS half, do all those bushings and leave out, don't reinstall. Then for the driver side IFS half with the differential, you first take out the bolt holding in the axle at the pivot point, press out and replace bushing, line up and reinstall the bolt THEN take off the leaf spring and do those bushings. Makes it a lot easier. Also consider replacing the inner most u-joint on the passenger side since it will be accessible with everything out.For the old leaf spring bushings, I pressed out the center sleave first, then the rubber, and if the metal sleave didn't come out with the rubber, I used a sawsall with a metal cutting blade and cut through the sleave right where the leaf spring curels around and leaves a small gap. That way if you cut too deep you won't leave any make in the leaf to smootgh out later. Once cut, I used an old flat head screw driver to work the sleave loose. I used an OTC ball joint press to press everything else out.

Had these installed at a local shop for total bill of $275 vs $600 + quoted at chain stores. Work well so far and no squeaks noticed as some reviews warned (shop says they lubricate prior to install).Fit 1997 F250 HD xcab longbed 4x4 7.3

I bought this bushing kit because my 17 year old bushings were completely shot (as I found out when going in for an alignment one day). I am glad I changed the old rubber ones for these. The ride is stiffer than before, mainly due to the truck not rolling or dipping as much in the turns as it did before, but I like that because it is a 4x4 and I want to feel what I'm driving over. Now, the truck just seems a bit straighter than it did before and a tad more level. This could be simply due to my perceptions of having replaced the bushings, though.This kit is great because it comes with all the bushings necessary to do both front springs and the shackles. Also, at first glance in the package, it may seem that the two small tubes of lubricant that come in the kit aren't going to be enough, but they are. I found out on the first bushing that you don't need to glob the stuff on. Just a thin light coat will do and does the job well. Just be sure to lubricate ALL of the metal surfaces that will contact the bushings - and be sure to deburr them after banging and tearing the old bushings and sleeves out. (I found that the right size deep well impact socket works good for pushing the old bushings out sleeve and all, with the use of some 1/2" or 9/16" - need to bore out the socket a bit - all thread, washers, nuts and some ingenuity.) You saw that right, yes, take the sleeves out too. The bushings are made to slip right into the spring and shackle eyes without the old sleeve.

Installed these on the front of a 1984 Ford F250 project. Work very well and installed reasonably smoothly, at least as smoothly as an installation of bushings on a 4WD front end can be expected.

Great fit and a big improvement over my worn out stock bushings. No squeaks so far.. Overall I'm more than happy with the ride and performance I'd recommend them to anyone. (Fit my 1991 F350 with dana 60 front axle)

I installed these on my 1995 F250 7.3 Diesel with the Dana 50 front end. Fit perfectly

Not intended for a shackle flip kit. There's no PN for the shackle flip kit unfortunately, still trying to source the last two steel pins needed.

Way better than the original rubber bushings. I haven't noticed a difference in ride, hey it's a heavy 3/4 ton, four wheel drive, diesel. But easy to install and should last much longer.