PIONEER A-Series TS-A2500LS4 10” Subwoofer – 1200W Max, Shallow-Mount Design, Deep Bass in Tight Spaces

Got these for myself for Xmas, along with the skar dual 12" box for my Ram 1500. When I finally got the stock head unit out of the truck and a new Pioneer installed, these things pound! I get all of the low bass notes and the subs are very responsive for the heavy metal that I sometimes listen to as well. I am still breaking them in, so they will get a little louder as I go. Extremely happy with my purchase.

Sounds great, plenty of wiring diversity. Quality piece.

Surprisingly capable for a shallow mount 12. Hits hard in a .75 sealed shallow box. From a guy who's no stranger to big sound... I'm impressed!

Perfect fit for the Skar Audio Box I purchased for my 2024 Ram 1500 Classic.

Delivery was quick. The item looks and feels of good quality. I installed this to replace a busted subwoofer on my truck. It fit perfectly fine. I had to cut the coonevtor and use bare wires as that was what my truck worked with. Not an issue on this speaker. I wish the holes were a bit easier to line up. Perhaps a small jig to help one person install. It had good power range. The sound was nice and deep. I recomend it for the money.

Good factory replacement for 2013 Hyundai Sonata

This is a very easy upgrade for your 2024+ Mustang with the B&O Subwoofer. Only took about an hour or so. There are youtube videos all over on how to do it. Basically, remove the sub box by taking the 3 bolts out, very easy, unplug rear wire. You have to pop off the trim ring, which has 6 clips on it that can break easily. i broke 3 of mine but it still went back on with no issues. Remove speaker. You will need to use a dremel to remove the plastic lip at the top. Take tin snips and cut a notch on new sub at each bolt hole that way you can reuse the factory screws. You can buy the wire adapters here on amazon so no cutting of factory wires, about $10, they say for jeep but they work. I got about 8 oz of polyfill on amazon and put in the sub box. Put the rubber gasket around the opening that comes with the sub to seal it. put it all back together. Sounds so much better instantly. Im sure adding an amp and bigger sub give more boom but this is fine to keep it factory looking and a better sound from the system. If you dont have all the tools needed you can buy them all on amazon, which is what i did and it made it easier-Dremel, tin snips, wire adapters, polyfill. Mustang 6g and mustang 7g have links to install and youtube has more up to date videos that make it pretty easy. I was hesitant to try it at first, but it was really easy and sounds so much better for a $60 or so subwoofer.

EDIT: I'm going to give this another try after building a smaller enclosure for it. The factory enclosure looks like it's about 1 cubic foot, but the product details suggest this subwoofer works best in an enclosure between 0.15 and 0.5 cubic feet. I’m also planning to use a mono amp matched to this sub's full RMS capabilities, connected to the subwoofer RCA jack on the back of my new Android Auto head unit. I’ll update this review with the results. Original Post: There was nothing physically wrong with the 2x2 ohm subwoofer in my 5th-generation Grand Caravan (about 7 years old), but I read that this sub was a good upgrade and it was recommended by Crutchfield. Installation was straightforward, with multiple slot arrangements that lined up well. I used new gasket sealing tape and cleaned the surface with isopropyl alcohol before installing it. It’s working fine, but to be honest, it feels like a slight downgrade from the original sub. The cone diameter is about 1/4" smaller, and the depth is about 3/4" less than the factory subwoofer. I’d suggest listening to it before reinstalling the moldings. It’s also helpful to play the same song before and after installation, and try isolating just the bass frequencies for a more accurate comparison. The suspension on this sub is much stiffer than on the 7-year-old factory sub, which likely impacts its performance. With the factory amp—expensive and difficult to replace in these CAN bus integrated systems—it’s not worth the hassle to upgrade. You could technically overload the amp by wiring to just one coil and then bridging to the other, but that seems like a risky move since electrical issues in vehicles can be time-consuming and costly to repair. If you’re looking for more bass, I’d recommend adding a secondary sub to your system rather than replacing the factory one.