GSI Creos - Mr. Procon Boy WA Platinum Airbrush with Air Up System 0.3mm, Mr. Hobby

If you're unsure how an airbrush can be different, or better, because you can get by with your included kit airbrush... you're not alone! I too wondered what could possibly be different enough to warrant spending $100 on an airbrush, let alone $150 for the much recommended Iwata Eclipse. The reviews for $100+ airbrushes all mention things that don't sound very integral to the experience, but if you're doing figure/miniature/gunpla painting, they absolutely are. I feel that learning on a bad airbrush helped me get over my fears, but it taught me to be afraid of doing detailed work. I haven't used more expensive brushes than this, and my skill level isn't at a place to appreciate the differences to a $400 brush, but I recommend this airbrush to all beginners/intermediates. This air brush is that line where the tool will no longer hold you back; it's all on you from here on out.What makes this air brush different than a Master or generic kit brush?1. The trigger has a smooth action. This didn't seem all that important because, again, I got used to my airbrush. I figured a little bit different wasn't a huge deal. I was wrong. A smooth action and no slightly grainy texture helps prevent you from making splatter mistakes. Letting go of the trigger too abruptly causes splatter when the needle smacks into the nozzle. That doesn't happen with this brush because the margin for error is much higher since it has a great spring and smooth pull.2. The modulation on the paint spray is much greater. What I mean is, you have more degrees of spraying paint when pulling back than with the other brush. I know what you're thinking: "I'm fine". But it's a game changer. Instead of your airbrush basically having 3 settings: Dry "I'm testing it out" Spray, "For-real this time Spray", and "Torrential Downpour", it feels like you now have way more freedom. It actually took me some time to get used to it because now I could actually be precise and move in close with the brush to get primer in small nooks.3. The cap doesn't get clogged because the needle is higher quality. I had to buy a new needle for my kit brush ($12 for a set of 3) because it arrived SLIGHTLY bent. My spray was leaning upwards which meant the cap kept getting clogged. This brush's cap isn't circular and even if you mess up and get paint in it, it won't pool it up in front of your needle.4. The cup is easier to clean. It's actually well finished all throughout. I'll guess your kit brush looks chrome all through but has slight ridges towards the bottom. Or maybe it's super cheap and looks like unfinished brass towards the end. That's because it's machined cheaply. A fully finished and well made cup equates to a huge time saver. Changing colors is now no longer a 3-4 minute activity but 30-40 seconds. Full clean only at the end of the session.5. Lack of nozzle leaks means it atomizes paint like a champ. Let's be straight, my cheap brush with a decent compressor can atomize paint. However, because it leaks air near the nozzle (check by putting soapy water near the nozzle cap and needle cap) it means I can expect it to spit every so often. Not to mention additional clean up and o-ring damage. My old airbrush spit tiny, tiny dots of paint once in awhile. Speckles ruin the finish. If you want to do any sort of slight detail work like pre-shading you probably gave up already. I didn't realize this was a solvable problem. I've primed over 40 pieces today and not a single sputter or speck. What fresh hell have I been putting myself through?If you're looking to stop fixing your models and get to actually painting them, I suggest you start here. Just comparing the specs with the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS this air brush blows it out of the water for $50 less. Nozzle/Needle replacement ready, perfect needle size for all the hobbies I listed above, and you get a mac valve! Just make sure you invest in a real compressor with tank first (The standard $79-89 kit compressors are more than fine).

I haven't had a chance to really use this brush long but I did spray with it and it did a great job. I have a Creos PS-770 that has a much smaller needle and it's awesome for detail work but I wanted something a little more middle of the road and just easy to spray with. Based on the build quality of the 770 I decided to give this a try. For approx $80 this thing is a phenomenal buy. I'm not a pro so I can't compare this to dozens of brushes. I just don't have that experience level but using this was easy and it sprayed really well right out of the box. I'm really looking forward to using it on the several model aircraft I was gifted last Christmas. I took the nozzle cap off and it sprayed a nice clean line a little less than 1mm wide. I would really recommend this as a great first airbrush or a general all-around tool for anyone. I plan to use this to lay down a couple of coats over wider surfaces or for priming and using the 770 for fine details.

All Mr.Hobby Creos airbrushes are awesome and very good fine lines and wide spraying and very good trigger response and atomization and very well made. And the prices are great. One of the best airbrushes to have.

I had been dragging my feet for about a year now with replacing my Iwata HP-CS and Paasche Talon with a different airbrush. I'd been looking at the CSI Creos PS series for awhile now until deciding on this particular one. Really, I wanted the PS-771 which is over $200+ but decided I'd give this model a try before making a more expensive decision. First off, I'm a scale modeler who primarily builds armor and the occasional WWII fighter aircraft and do a lot of camo patterns and weathering detailing..ie: fading of panels etc. I tested this airbrush with the top three paint brands I use; Tamiya, Ammo Of Mig and Vallejo Model Air, trying out different air pressures and each brand atomized really well during spraying. The trigger action IMO is more smooth than my Iwata HP-CS and leagues better than my Paasche Talon. I also have the Paasche Raptor, which is about the same as the Talon in terms of trigger action. I'll be keeping those three for primers and base coating and will primarily use the PS-289 for detail work and camo patterns. For under $100, the finish and quality of the CSI Creos PS-289 is extraordinary. Inside the paint cup is smooth, the chrome finish is flawless. I've not seen a better airbrush for this price range that's made this well and functions like the more expensive airbrushes like Harder & Steinbeck. I highly recommend this airbrush to anyone from a beginner to and advanced user.

This has been a game changer for me, night-and-day better than my Paasche Talon. For the money, you won't get much better until you start shopping in the $200+ range.Pros:- Some of the best price to performance you'll see in airbrushes.- Does a great job atomizing the paint, effortlessly sprays Gaia EX Black to a reflective finish.- MAC valve built right into the gun, leave the tank's regulator at ~20PSI and call it a day.- Wider cup is easy to clean with a microfiber towel.- Standard sized threads hooked right up to my No-Name Spraygunner tank (also highly recommend). No adapters needed unlike Paasche.Cons:- I genuinely have none. Coming from a Paasche Talon, everything it did, this does better. Better features, better atomization, better build quality, less aggressive curve in how much paint you spray vs how far back you pull the trigger. I've had this for around 2-3 weeks now and have been using it almost every day since and haven't found a thing to complain about it.