Cal-Hawk CAPCFM Assorted Car Truck Mini Fuse 5,7.5,10,15,20,25,30 Amp

It's exactly as described, and as high quality as fuses need to be. Many people will have more use for 15-to-20 amp fuses than some of the others (power ports tend to get overdrawn more than anything else, unless you're having a particular electrical issue), but the set's usefulness still outweighs its price with the variety you get. GENERAL RECOMMENDATIONS: Never EVER put a higher-rated fuse in a lower-rated bracket. This can cause fire, permanent damage to your vehicle, and is a danger to anyone in the car. Only use the same (or if you have to, lower) rated fuse in a bracket. Often, the cover you remove to access the vehicles fuses will have the chart showing the acceptable amperage for each device fuse. Many vehicles (particularly post-2008) will have one fuse box under the hood, and one in the leg-space of the front seats. The front seat fuse-box will tend to have the fuse removing tool. For the sake of your fingernails and your sanity, use it or find one.

Its a large set and the carry case is okay for the price. Did use one so far and it worked great. I highly recommend this product and would buy again with out hesitation. But there are soooooo many that you will never use them all for sure. As I indicated the case is okay. I personally have two vehicles. So split them in half and put in old empty medicine bottles. So have in both cars. Just a suggestion if you have more than one vehicle or can give some to your kids before they "borrow" the whole case and never return them LOL.

I have read some of the other reviews out there, and they pretty much cover most of the basic stuff, so I will not go into a lot of detail about the fuses. But I will add on to what other have said. Basically, these fuses are the mini type.. They are mostly used on cars, from around 2000 and up.. Cars in the 80's and 90's mostly used the ATC type of fuse, and before that, mostly use more the cylinder or glass tube with metal ends, type of fuse. As for the fuses, and where they are used. Unlike the old cars, where the fuses were in just one fuse box, which was inside the car, or seating area, these day, there is usually 2 fuse boxes. One in the engine compartment, and one inside the seating area. The ones inside the seating area, are usually around the dashboard somewhere, and can very from in the door jams, to inside the glove compartment (this one is not too common these days), to under the molding down by your feet (this one could be on the side molding, or under the dash board assembly). If you look at a lot of the fuse boxes, a lot of them will come with some open spaces, where you can store an extra fuse or a few of them. They are usually marked off in some way. I try to put a couple in there, of a few different sizes, so I have one on hand, just in case one blows and you do not have some with you. This way, there is always an extra one on hand, just in case. These spaces are not usually filled from the factory, but are put there for your convenience, in case you do choose to put some extra ones in there. This may be something to consider if you blow fuses a bit. As for these. Overall, they are not bad. Not great, but not bad. I think that they need to do a few things to make these better though. First, start by putting numbers on the end that are readable.. They have just an indent to tell you the size, but it is made out of the same plastic as the rest of the fuse, so it is not easy to read. Maybe put some paint on it so it is easier to read. Add a little bit of a lip, or some texture to the side of the fuse, so that it is easier to grip, and pull out would be nice too. The case, could also stand to be a LOT smaller. While this one is not really bad, it is not very convenient to store in a small place, maybe like your glove box, because it is so big. You could always put them in another container if you want too, but one more convenient for storage, would be better from the start. I would guess that only about 10% of the space, is actually used with the fuses.. The rest is just open air. I combined all the different sizes, and types into this one box, and I still do not have it even half filled. Just way to big. The size of the box is 8 1/4" long, 4 1/8" wide (this does not include hinges, just the main area), and 1 1/8" thick. The plastic to it is a cheap, flexible plastic. It reminds me more of the new, eco friendly DVD cases that are out these days.. It works, and has 2 latches to keep it shut, so it does serve its intended purpose just fine, but it also is not durable enough to take much abuse either. To be fair, this is a cheap setup, so I can not complain too much for the price. The fuses work and that is what is important. If you are going to be replacing the fuses, since these are not marked very well on the end, with the numbers, to make them easy to read, something good to know, if you did not know, is that they are color coded. Most fuses, with a blade on them, like these, or event he ATC type, use the same color coding for the fuse, where the color matches the size. 1 amp is black (not in this set) 2 amp is grey (not in this set) 3 amp is violet, or a type of purple (not in this set) 4 amp is pink (not in this set) 5 amp is tan (can also look more of a light yellowish brown too) 7 1/2 amp is brown (usually more of a medium brown in darkness) 10 amp is red 15 amp is blue (can be light, or medium in darkness) 20 amp is yellow (some may look yellowish orange) 25 amp is clear 30 amp is green 40 amp is amber (a yellowish orange color) (not in this set) Yea, I know, I said yellowish orange on 2 of them, but the yellow on some of the older, ATC fuses, actually looks amber, even though it is supposed to be yellow, so always better to double check the number on them if possible. The color coding should be are generic way to see what amp the fuse is, but is not always fool proof, as with the yellow and amber colors, and one can be mistaken for the other, with some fuses. Most cars, in regular fuses, do not use above a 30 amp. If they do, it is not usually a standard size fuse, like these. So you usually will not need above a 30. I am including some photos, so you can see, just how much of a color difference there is, from one brand to another, even though, they are all supposed to be the same color. I put them in sequence, from 5 amp, all the way up to 30 amp, and put like color/amp ones together. This is not a bad set, but like I said, could be better with a few small changes. It is still well worth the money. I personally prefer getting something made in the USA if I can, as this set is made in china, but the only ones that I know are made in the USA, that I could find, were many times more expensive then this one, and while I am willing to pay a little more for made in the USA stuff, I am not willing to pay 3 or more times more, for it. That gap is too big, which is why I went with these.

These are the Mini-blade fuses with the pointed connectors. I replaced a 15 amp size and it has been working for months with no issues. With the kit having so many fuses, I put 2 of each size in a plastic zip-lock bag in the vehicle's glove box as a 'fuse kit' to have ever needed. Here is more information or trivia for those who like it - There are 4 types of blade fuses determined by blade size (non-interchangeable terminal connectors) - Each fuse type is identified by looking at the shape/size of the metal terminals (called blades/prongs/connectors). These 4 types, in order of physical dimensions include: 1) Low-Profile mini-blade fuse - has two prongs that are square but very short in length (about 1.5mm). 2) ATO-blade (also called 'Regular') - looks similar to Maxi-blade square prongs but shorter (.26 inch/6.5mm long), - there is a cutout notch in each prong near the plastic housing 3) Mini-blade (ATM) - distinctive because it has two prongs that are pointed dagger ends (7.5mm long) - these fuses are roughly half the size of a Maxi-blade 4) Maxi-blade (ATC) - has two prongs that are square ends (half inch/12.5mm long) - these are packaged in thicker/wider plastic and have ratings up to 120 Amps Two other types - Micro2 2-blade and Micro3 3-blade fuses with each type having a protrusion (reverse of a cutout notch) on their outer blades You will see the term 'Open' or 'Closed', which refers to the bottom of the colored plastic housing - 'Closed' means the colored plastic housing seals the thin metal fuse element (the actual fuse runs between the connector blades) and 'Open' means that the fuse element is accessible through the opening at the bottom of the plastic housing. Other acronyms are BK, BP, VP - These are shelf packaging for quantity and mix of fuses - BulK packs, Blister Pack and Value Pack ** What do the ATC/ATO mean? Some assume there was an original meaning of “Automotive Terminal Connector”, but that is not official. ATC/ATO etc are non-descriptive legal trademarks (I believe, but am not sure, Littlefuse owns ATO/MINI/Low Profile MINI/MICRO2/MICRO3, and Eaton-Cooper-Bussman owns ATC/ATR/ATL/ATM/MAXI - These trademarks are crossed licensed.) The AT 'C' and 'O' do NOT mean 'closed' or 'Open' since ATC can be purchased as either 'open' or 'closed' plastic housings. ATR is for single-circuit, ATL is for dual-circuit designs. Hopefully, this will help and maybe you can avoid some of the confusion when looking for blade style fuses.

Me encantó el producto... Realmente contiene los 120 minifusibles y vienen ordenados. Además el producto llegó rápido y viene de importación. Lo recomendaría bastante ya que por la cantidad de fusibles el precio es demasiado competitivo.

Buen producto

Fantastic. A 5 piece box at Crappy Tire is $6.99. So if they sold this set there you would pay $167....

Why worth it for the price. Haven't had any issues with them.

Does the job.