Nikon 2137 Nikor Lens Af Nikkor 50Mm F/1.8D For Dslr Cameras Black

Even though its an old model it works. Not very smooth to handle like while fixing in the camera or fine tune the focus. Still I'm satisfied with this product according to what I spend. Recommended for beginners. ( I'm a beginner )

This is a great lens. Can’t setup a gear without one of these!

Nice product

Purchased from uniholdings. Great product and service

Good product

Very good quality, though manually operated... but at least there's no jitter when filming... good to practice my focusing.

Let's get this out of the way first. Your max aperture is simply a mathematical ratio describing the len's ability to gather light entering the front element. It does not measure the amount of light where it's important -- light exiting the rear element on to the film or sensor. That's always LESS than the max-ap because the glass and surface-to-air planes absorb light. The amount of light that hits the sensor (or film plane) is known as a t-stop and it's what cinematorgraphers use. The max f-stop and t-stop readings can be off by a surprising amount. As measured by the tech website DXOmark, the vaunted Canon 1.2 has a t-stop of 1.5. Guess what DXOmarks measures this Nikon's t-stop rating as? 1.5. Same as the Canon. This is the best max aperture to t-stop ratio I'm aware of. 1.4 max aperture, 1.5 t-stop. Same as the Canon 1.2 -- see for yourself. Now, on to the review. This is a lens for those who appreciate a classic standard focal length prime that uses the timeless seven element in six groups planar optical formulation. Every major manufacturer from Zeiss, to Olympus, to Yashica (RIP), to Pentax, to Minolta to Canon, to Sigma has made nearly an identical lens using the same classic configuration. They're basically the same lens (sorry Nikon but you know it's true...) It's a simple lens compared to modern lenses -- no fancy coatings, few elements and groups, no vibration reduction, no exotic glass, no aspherical elements. None of that stuff. As a result, this lens will vignette a little and be a bit softer at wider apertures, especially in the corners. You will always get some barrel distortion that will look terrible on "internet lens testing sites" but will hardly be noticeable in the field. It will be more susceptible to flare at wider apertures. Newsflash -- f1.4 is not a "working aperture", really. Working apertures for this lens are f 2 to f 8. Let's go through -- f 1.4 is "in case of emergency". If you need every photon available for available darkness shooting -- it's there. Also, use it to squeeze every bit of bokeh possible out of the lens for creative effect , playing and experimentation. F 2 -- 2.8, used to provide subject isolation. Great for environmental portraiture, ambient light shooting, or natural light still lifes. You'll get very good to excellent center sharpness, corners will be acceptable, and you'll get nice bokeh while losing a good bit of the chromatic aberrations and vignetting associated with shooting wide open. F 4 -- now were starting to get some serious sharpness in the center, corners improving dramatically, vignetting gone. F 5.6. BAM! If you're after max sharpness especially in the center with good depth of focus and some subject isolation (depending on focus distance) this is your aperture. You will be hard-pressed to find a sharper optic at any price. Center sharpness is off the charts, almost literally. Good daylight, flash, outdoors, that's your aperture. Whenever you're looking for optimal sharpness. Or? F 8. This will give you excellent corner sharpness at the expense of some center sharpness (which is still excellent) but no "bokeh" everything pert much in focus. F 11 -- image quality now visibly degrading due to diffraction. Still quite usable. Kinda the reverse of f1.4 except now you're going for max depth of focus. F 16 -- not a working aperture imo. Too much image degradation from diffraction but it's there if you need it for some reason. So. Why this lens? Why is it still relevant after 20 years of production? Why is it still made? A number of reasons. Modern FX cameras are pretty heavy. My "little" D600 weighs 2 lbs (I think). Now, slap a lens on it that easily adds another pound (or more) and it becomes a drag lugging this kit around and there's a good chance you leave it home and not use it at all, Your big, pricey FX camera is not doing any good setting on the shelf. This is the smallest and lightest f1.4 lens Nikon makes. It's great for "lug management". Not only that? It is very bright and is capable of completely professional results. Some of the greatest photographers shot solely with a 50 taking brilliant images with them. Since my camera has a built-in focus motor, I prefer to use that. (It's also purportedly faster on this lens...). I think the tiny motors built-in to the newer lenses will eventually wear out. I think this guy is simply more durable. Finally, I use two sites when choosing a lens: DXOMark and Flickr. DXO rates lenses objectively using an indexing scale and you can match lens performance to you camera body. There was one modern 50 by a 3rd party manufacturer that topped this one by a bit -- but it's a big, heavy, expensive behemoth. I can make just as good "ART" without lugging that thing around. No thanks. This lens was tied for 2nd among standard non-specialty "everyday" focal lengths. (Scrolling way down the list you start getting to your pricey pro zooms...) It was also a good bit cheaper (especially used and they're plentiful), smaller, and lighter. Then I went on Flickr -- some talented folks taking some amazing images with this lens. That comes as no surprise. This is a better lens than I am a photographer. Henry Cartier Bresson, Ralph Gibson, and others mostly shot a 50mm 1.4 their entire careers. Sold!

中古とのことですが、外観もレンズも見た目問題ありませんでした。 実際に使ってみると、ボケ方がやはりすごいですね。ただ、若干ボケはうるさい感じはしますが、イイレンズだと思います。

Es difícil imaginar un lente que te de tanto por tan poco dinero. Tiene un tamaño reducido, anillo de diafragma y una gran apertura. La calidad de imagen es buena y su distancia focal de 50mm lo hacen el único lente que podrías tener. Soy usuario de diversas marcas y cuando veo lentes 50mm 1.4 que valen 10 o 20 veces más que éste, son más grandes - y por ende estorbosos y pesados - me pregunto que tanto vale la pena esa calidad extra de imagen que pudieran tener. Este lente tiene un poco más de distorsión que el 50 1.8D, el cual es aún más pequeño y barato! Pero en mi caso, prefiero tener esa apertura mayor y corregir esa pequeña distorsión en el software de edición. Por lo anteriormente dicho, este lente me gustó mucho. Compré toda la serie D que había disponible: 24, 28 (este lo vendí después porque no me gustó), 35, 50 y 85 y un zoom. Si tuviera que elegir solo uno, sin duda sería el 50mm 1.4D. Un ganador!

Cet objectif est tout simplement indispensable en DX. Trop de gens se casse la tête lors d’un changement appareil photographique. C’est en fait sur les objectifs qu’il faut se concentrer. N’oubliez jamais une chose : Si la photo vous passionne, et que cette passion vous guidera sur plusieurs années, ce sont les objectifs, qui sont les éléments les plus importants. Il y a fort à parier, qu’ils vous suivront à jamais, alors que les boitiers, eux, vous serez très certainement amené à les changer. Et ce nikon 50mm 1.4, fait parti des objectifs, dont on ne se sépare pas. Il est à la taille de l’oeil humain, il est le parfait outil pour vous amener à faire de la vraie photo. Car comme tous les « Prime Lens« , ce n’est pas un zoom banal. On ne peut pas juste zoomer, dézoomer, en pensant changer le point de vue photographique d’une image (Je le rappelle, il ne fait que recadrer !) Là, avec le nikon 50mm 1.4, il va falloir, bouger, marcher, grimper…afin d’obtenir le meilleur point de vue. Avec son ouverture maximale, f/1.4, c’est donc un des plus lumineux, donc un des objectifs les plus rapides du marché. A mon avis, même en intérieur, vous devriez pouvoir vous passer de trépied et de flash. Encore un WYSWYG (What You See Is What You Get), qui vous permettra d’obtenir ce que vous voyez. Et le prix : Autour de 300 Euros. Pour un « Prime Lens« , c’est tout simplement cadeau. Toutefois, sachez qu’il existe encore des 50mm moins chers, mais un peu moins rapides. Les Nikon 50mm f/1.8 en AF-D et AF-S. Là, nous sommes autour de 150 Euros. Maintenant, vous vous posez probablement la question : nikon 50mm 1.4 AF-D ou nikon 50mm 1.4 AF-S ? Sachez que le dernier, est la version la plus récente, avec un moteur AF intégré, mais sans bague d’ouverture, donc incompatible avec les boitiers argentique. Par ailleurs, le nouveau nikon 50mm AF-S a plus de distorsion que son vieux frère, et bizarrement, possède un filetage pour filtre étrange de 58mm au lieu du bon vieux 52mm. Pour des exemples de clichés et le test complet, voir directement sur Photoexposition.fr

Mi primera experiencia con focales fijas y solo puedo decir que es fantastico! profundidad de campo tremenda a 1.8. Eso si, sirve para camaras de cuerpo motorizado como la D90. En camaras como la D40, D3100, etc necesitas objetivos motorizados (que tengan la referencia AF-S) Si comprases este modelo "D" te funcionaria, pero el enfoque lo tendrias que hacer manual, y de verdad que con la profundidad de campo a 1.8 cuesta bastante enfocar manualmente. La unica pega que he encontrado, pero no es culpa del objetivo, es que en mi D90, al no ser full frame (de sensor grande) hay que multiplicar por 1.4, con lo que a efectos es un 70mm. Ello significa que para sacar retratos de medio cuerpo en casa me tengo que alejar, y segun como no tengo espacio suficiente. Si fuese ahora compraria el mismo pero en 35mm. que realmente equivaldria x1.4 al de 50mm. reales. .... Lo mas seguro que que acabe quedandome los dos! Esto del focal fijo es toda una experiencia! Menudo descubrimiento., es divertidisimo no tener zoom!