Rheem SP10869KL Screw-In 240-volt/3500-watt Element, Premium Resistored Stainless Steel

I use this type of heating element in home grown fermentation system and low watt density plus stainless steel construction is utmost importance. This unit is BY FAR the best I’ve found on Amazon for low watt density and quality at a decent price. For my specific needs I don’t care about the resistor feature but most people are not aware that water heaters fail typically because of lack of inexpensive maintenance of the cathodic protection system so if Rheem requires a resistor as part of their protection system it makes sense to buy this unit though certainly non-resistored elements will function. Performance is as advertised (see photo) but I’m running slightly over 240v so getting more than the rated wattage at 3,640 watts and 14.8 amps. My application isn’t for an OEM water heater but I’ll just say my only problem with this element was that the provided gasket is pretty soft and it took some finesse to get it to seal properly in my admittedly non-standard application. Seal is no different than used in some other brands I’ve tried so likely fine when used in an actual Rheem water heater.

So far so good It’s been Three months

Was having intermittent hot water and diagnosed that the bottom element was bad. However since my water heater is tucked away and had to completely drain I decided to do a complete overhaul (except the anode as we have soft water and the hot water did not smell. Always check the wattage of your elements which is listed on the outside of Rheem heaters. If there is no water leaking from the heater and there is not visible tank rust you can do a rebuild yourself for ~$80. 1) Turn of the breaker. 2) Turn off the breaker and put tape over the breaker to let others know you are working. 3) Remove the top element cover plate and insulation. 4) Check that no voltage is at the top left and right feeds to the thermostat. 5) Remove the bottom element cover plate and insulation. 4) Check that no voltage is at the feeds to the thermostat. 5) Attach a hose and run to sink/tub or outside. 6) Do not shut the water supply off, yet as it's good to start with a flush. The water supply helps push the sand and rust parts out. 7) Open the drain valve via the handle or regular screw driver. 8) Let water drain until the water is clear and ensure no more sand or particles are coming out. I placed a clear storage bin at the hose outlet so I could see the particles. 9) Turn off the cold water supply to the water heater. 10) Open a hot only valve from a nearby sink and leave open. 11) lift the over boil relief valve and leave open to relieve any air to help drain faster. I used a wood clothes pin to keep the spring loaded valve. 12) Wait until the heater tank is completely drained. 13) Write down the wiring or take a picture with your phone of the wiring before dis assembly. 14) Remove the 2 wires on the top element. 15) Using TEKTON 1828 1/2-Inch by 1-1/2-Inch Water Heater Socket (buy this one the cheap socket as is not strong enough) and remove the top element by turning counter clockwise. 16) Ensure the old seal also came out, then insert the new seal that came with the new element and insert the new element by turn clockwise. Tighten with the socket. 17) Connect the 2 wires to the top element. 18) Replace the top thermostat and be care to pay attention to the wire locations. , for me I used the Rheem SP11698 Electric Thermostat. Reconnect the wires, Make sure the thermostat is flush against the tank. 19) Remove the 2 wires on the bottom element. 20) Using the Water Heater Socket remove the bottom element by turning counter clockwise. 21) Ensure the old seal also came out, then insert the new seal that came with the new element and insert the new element by turn clockwise. Tighten with the socket. 22) Connect the 2 wires to the bottom element. 23) Replace the bottom thermostat and be care to pay attention to the 2 wire locations. , for me I used the Rheem SP11695 Electric Thermostat. Reconnect the wires, Make sure the thermostat is flush against the tank. 24) Do not turn the power on! 25) Make sure the over boil valve from step 11 is now closed closed. 26) Remove the drain house from step 5 and close the drain valve from step 7. 26) Turn on the cold water supply to the water heater. Wait until water comes out of the open hot water faucet from step 10, then turn this faucet off. 27) Check for leaks. 28 Set the the bottom thermostat to your desired setting and set the top thermostat ~5 degrees less. 28) Now that the tank is full of water, turn on the breaker for the water heater. 29) Check the voltage on the top element only. 30) Waiting 30 - 45 minutes and then check the voltage on the bottom element. 31) Turn on the hot water at a nearby sink to check the temperature. 32) Turn off the breaker to the water heater. 33) Replace the original plastic thermostat covers (not provided in the replacement kits), the insulation, and the covers. 34) Turn on the breaker to the water heater.

Happy with my buy.

This 3500w element is a direct replacement for my Rheem EHW 30 gal. tank. The original lower heater element was heavily covered with scale/crystals. Decided to replace it for $15 rather than just clean it. Easy to install and works great. I would recommend.