Blue DemonBDTP-125-01T Triple Play Low Temp Aluminum-Zinc Brazing Rod 1/8" x 18" 1 Lb Tube,

This low-temperature aluminum brazing rod is economical, easy to use, and effective (IF you follow the directions). I used this rod to seam braze 75 aluminum joints (300 total brazes) that had broken on an aluminum pontoon boat canopy frame that had collapsed during a storm. Most of the joints were 1" x 1" aluminum square tube" with heavier duty/guage rectangular aluminum at the base of the frame. This fluxless aluminum rod worked well for this purpose, but only when the instructions were copiously followed, which, in essence, are: 1) Secure your joint (vice grips, clamps, etc.) and copiously clean all aluminum surfaces to be brazed with a large new stainless steel ("SS") brush (buy one large brush and 2 or 3 small brushes), 2) get a good "handheld" torch (I tried several and found "Mag – Torch" the best) with a hose (sold separately from the torch for about $20) that connects the torch to a "map gas" cylinder (hotter than propane and available in all home improvement stores), 3) frequently use your small stainless steel brush on the area to be brazed during the heating and brazing process to remove impurities ("oxides"). if you don't brush, your braze will be significantly weakened or may not adhere at all. 4) frequently test the heat of your metal by running the aluminum rod over the joint area. When the rod begins to easily melt (from the heat of the rod against the hot metal only- absolutely not from the direct heat of the torch) deflect the torch flame away from the joint and begin "tinning" the joint ( tinning = applying a light coat of melted aluminum from the rod to the surfaces you abraded with your small stainless steel brush). 5) Put the flame back on the joint for 3 to 5 seconds to be sure that the tinning adheres, then remove the torch to let the tinning coo/solidify for 5 to 10 seconds. 6) Use your stainless steel brush again to clean the oxides from the tinned area, 7) reheat the joint to where your aluminum will again melt the rod and apply a generous coat of melted aluminum to the tinned area of your joint, 8) finish the joint braze with about 4 or 5 seconds more heat from the torch to increase final adherence of the melted aluminum to the joint. 9) If you see impurities (oxides) in your braze, don't be afraid to run your small brush through your braze to clean out the impurities to strengthen your joint. This "brush through" may require you to melt a little more aluminum on your joint but the joint will be stronger for it. In sum, secure the work, use new stainless steel brushes to frequently clean work, metal not torch must melt aluminum brazing rod, "tin" all brushed areas, apply final braze coat, and always finish with more heat for adherence.Practice on a few joints before doing your finish work. Everything will seem very awkward at first as you juggle the torch, the brush, the rod, and the correct heat. Within about 5 to 10 joints you will feel like a professional. If you cut corners though and don't get the work hot enough or don't frequently keep your joint clean of the oxides with the brush your brazes will look pretty but won't hold and your time will be wasted. Good luck!

This stuff is AMAZING ! I used it on a cast aluminum manifold on a pressure washer that had froze and cracked . I cleaned out the crack in a V shape and it flowed amazingly! I’m so impressed!

I used these zinc-alluminum alloy brazing rods when I had to make my own flashing around a skylight. I used regular galvanized flashing, and these alloy brazing rods did the trick. They will braze both aluminum & zinc. But aluminum flashing is too thin & melts too easily. Galvanized flashing works OK.Here are a few tips:Flux is unnecessary, but If the surface is dull or dirty, brush clean with a STAINLESS STEEL wire brush. Regular wire brushes won't work.Prepare each surface by "tinning," which means to melt a thin coating of brazing alloy on the surfaces PRIOR to actual brazing. This is critical for a good strong joint.A regular propane torch is sufficiently hot, but a broader flame works better than a pencil-tip flame.Always heat the metal & let the metal melt the brazing rod. Don't melt the brazing rod with the flame itself.The trick is to keep the temperature around 750 F. Too hot and the metal can scorch & warp. Too cool & the brazing rod will not melt or bond.Use clamps to hold surfaces together. This alloy material will fill small gaps, but it works best if the gaps are tight.Don't be in a hurry. Practice on scraps first.

It works great! If you don't know how to weld, you might have trouble. The base metal needs to be at the right temperature to melt the rod and the surface needs to be cleaned using a Stainless steel wire brush. I preheat the aluminum then wire brush, then put the parts together, then use the aluminum rod. Gently scratch the aluminum with a stiff stainless steel wire while welding. Remember, the aluminum has impurities that come to the surface of the puddle that needs to be gently removed with the stiff stainless wire. I like to tin all the parts before I put them together just like soldering. I get very good results. Practice. You'll get good at it. It is fun!

This product did not work for me. However, the cast galvanized aluminum I tried to repair with it is not an easy metal to fix. After much cleaning with Acetone and stainless steel brushing the Blue demon Triple Play would not adhere to the aluminum. I used an entire new canister of Bernzomatic propane in the attempted process! Negative result could be due to my application or the galvanized aluminum itself!

These are way bigger than I was expecting way bigger they are huge compared to what I was expecting. This didn't just oxidize and flake away like the little wire ones do. I refreshed my hole with the drill bit after heating it about half way up then let a small piece burn off and drop into the hole and I tested it occasionally once it started melting it only took one stick to fill it completely but I fed another in and stirred to displace any floating impurities and scraped the surfaces inside the hole and on the outer surface as well to see how well it would stick to the old undrilled metal and it stuck great to it as well only way it could be better is if it were a welding rod also or if it melted at a lower temperature the first time then after cooling would somehow have a higher melting temperature so I wouldn't have needed to get the engine as hot. I'm just hoping the heat hasn't affected it in anyway but I don't think so. This is great stuff it makes me want to fix something else with the other 18 rods that's left . One complaint is the container was busted at one end and I'm not sure if some were taken out before packaging but if it is supposed to have 20 in it then they are all there. These things are way bigger than expected! I didn't realize that the package wasine until I read the label after not finding the package I was expecting them I was thinking what a major waste of a big long box. Nope it was about the right length.